Sunday, May 06, 2007

 


















Epilogue

We would like to thank the following people for being a part of our journey:

Robert (aka Bart) and Sylwia, Oli and Neevah – it had been more than 7 years since Rich had seen Bart, but it was as if they had seen each other just the other day. We had a great time with you guys and really hope you will come visit us soon. In fact, we had such a great time that we kept on coming back to meet up again. You guys showed us around Germany and really made us change our views on Germany – it is an amazing country with really great people.

Grant & Nikki for meeting up with us in Italy – we had an awesome time together. Hopefully we meet again very soon.

Faye and Tianshi – we met in Vienna for maybe 20 minutes initially, and then you really helped us tremendously in China. Our day with you Faye (pity Tianshi was away) in Shanghai we will never forget. Thanks for that. We really do hope you will come visit us in South Africa.

Mr Kim and family – we had never met until we arrived in Seoul. My friend Alex as we call him in South Africa told us to get in touch with you and we were really glad we did. You spoilt us rotten and made us feel totally at home in your country. We are also hoping that you will come visit us in Cape Town and hopefully we will make your stay as enjoyable.

Daryl – we just happened to be in Japan at the same time as Rich’s brother Daryl. It was great to see family and spend some time together. Thanks also for the free 5 star breakfast we had.

Noboru, Kumi and Yuki – we met going up Jungfraujoch in Switzerland and we were hoping to meet up again in Japan. Thanks to all your help we managed to meet you all in Tokyo and Kyoto. We had the best time and were shown the local scene. You all spoilt us so much. We have not stopped telling everyone how amazing your family is and how amazing the Japanese people are. Please come visit us. Our house will always be open to you all.

Coby and Robyn – how amazing meeting with you guys. Rich overheard you talking to some local Hawaiians and you mentioned you were from Canada. Well, Canada was our next stop (we were on our way that night to Canada) and Rich was actually reading the Canada Lonely Planet. We had a great afternoon together, then dinner together before we headed off to Canada. But we were to meet again in Toronto some 3 weeks later. Thanks for a lovely dinner (home-cooked) and an awesome last few hours in Canada. Hopefully we can meet up in Israel or maybe you can make the long trek to South Africa. You both are an inspiration to us. Thanks for everything.

Perry, Laureen, Daniel and Asher – we think that one of the most amazing things to happen in our travels is to re-acquaint ourselves with old friends like you guys. Rich grew up with you guys, but then had lost contact. It is sad, but a fact of life in South Africa that so many people have left. We had a really great time with you (even tho’ this was our first introduction to Canada and the bitter cold and snow). You welcomed us into your home for which we are truly grateful. We really are looking forward to you coming to Cape Town and spoiling you. I am sure that by then, Daniel will be reciting every multiplication table and everything else to do with numbers.

Mark (aka Pubes), Sharon, Joshua and Amy – we really don’t know how to thank you guys enough. You opened your home to us and made us feel welcome. You took time off work to show us around, you came to Banff to spend a weekend with us and not to mention all the BBQ’s (or braai’s) that Pubes did in the -25 degree Celcius weather outside. Those steaks are tops in the world. The ice hockey game was also amazing (pity the Flames didn’t go all the way). We can’t wait until you come visit us in Cape Town. I can promise we won’t have weather as cold as you had for us.

Rich M, Suzy, Joshua, Benny and Amy – what can we say about you guys??? From even before we arrived in Toronto we knew that we would have things easy. Suzy was now in charge of our lives for almost a week. Our decision making was now ceded to Suzy. What a relief. We could relax and chill out (literally and figuratively). While Rich M was slogging away trying to finish his audit, Suzy looked after us. Rich M – thanks for taking time off from your busiest time of year to be with us. You don’t know how grateful we are. I think that Rich B really took to kids once he met your kids. Josh, Benny and Rich B were constantly playing hockey, football, or throwing ball. Benny was also on Rich B’s back and shoulders most of the week being thrown around. We will never forget all the “padkos” that Suzy packed for us. When we arrived in Venezuela we just opened our bag and there was this fresh banana loaf courtesy of Suzy. Guys – we really are so grateful for everything you did for us. We can’t wait until you come visit us here in SA. We will babysit your kids anytime.

Hardy and Odalis – how do you thank a crazy Austrian and his lovely Venezuelan girlfriend? You guys don’t know how much you helped us in Venezuela. We were a bit lost when we met you on the bus going to Choroni and you took us under your wing. We not only shared great times (and many cervezas) in Choroni, but the weekend we spent with you at your amazing home in San Juan de Los Morros. You really did inspire us. The easy 2-hour hike you took us on that turned into more than 6 hours of pain (where we nearly lost Rich to another world) was also fun (when we look back). We hope that one day we can help you as much as you helped us and look forward to meeting up again soon (hopefully at our home in Cape Town).

Rene (aka Renzo) and Julia (aka JR) – well our plans were actually to skip USA mainland. Our plans seem to have changed. We made it to Atlanta airport about 8 times, but to the city twice and what a lovely city. You seemed to sort the weather out nicely for us as well. Thanks a mill for those buddy passes to Costa Rica and taking time out your busy schedules (?????) to join us in Costa Rica for 3 days. We had an amazing time drinking cerveza, talking rubbish, arguing with numerous people, but generally having lots of laughs. Thanks also for showing us around Atlanta (from the Waffle House, to Einsteins, to local breweries, and other local eateries and drinking spots). We are looking forward to hopefully meeting up with you in Kruger National Park soon. We will have to spoil you there.

Marga Bendel-Bauer – amazing as it is, when we arrived in Morro de Sao Paulo, we had earmarked only 1 pousada to go to and that was Pousada Colibri. From the minute we arrived there and met Marga we knew we belonged. You made us feel so welcome at your pousada. Only after about 30 minutes did we finally realize that your maiden surname and our surname is the same (and Bendel is not a common surname). It actually almost felt as if we were family somehow. You have the best pousada in the world and your island is also the best place ever. We have not stopped telling people that they have to go to Morro and stay at your pousada. Thanks so much for everything you did and the truly amazing gift you gave us. We will always treasure it. We honestly hope that one day, you and your family come visit us in Cape Town. We hope that we can make you feel as welcome in our house as you made us feel in your pousada.

There are also many other people that we met along the way that changed our perspectives on life and views on people. We had many drinks and dinners with people from all different nations, shared many great stories, travel tips, travel horrors and the like who we would like to thank. We have shared contact details with numerous people and we really do hope that some of you do come and visit us in Cape Town. Our house is open to you all.


Bye for now!

 



28 April, 07

Arriving home!
This morning we arrived in Johannesburg, South Africa. Simsie, Rich’s brother-in-law came to fetch us at the airport and we spent the morning with Charlene and Simsie and their baby boy Jake. It was weird to be back and to be eating ‘normal’ food. Thank you Charlene for all the food and snacks and it was great to see you guys. We left Jhb in the late afternoon and we arrived in Cape Town at about 19h00. Finally, we were home!!!
My dad fetched us from the airport and we had dinner in our own home with my folks. The house felt empty and a bit strange but it was good to be back and in our own bed. The shower felt so good and hot and we walked around the house looking and smelling and familiarizing ourselves, I guess just like any other animal. We have mixed feelings and we are very tired and it will take a few days to settle down and find our feet. It has been the most incredible journey and experience and if anybody needs some travel advice, just give us a call. We have seen the most amazing places on earth and met the best people.

 

27 April, 07

We waited at the Manaus airport for our flight and it was delayed by almost three hours. Therefore we sat in the airport until about 6am and didn’t sleep the entire night. We arrived in Sao Paulo at 11h00 exhausted and luckily we had access to the Diners club lounge. There was no shower but it is new and clean and somewhere to sit for a few hours until our flight for Johannesburg, South Africa. We are looking forward to getting home! A few fights with SAA before leaving but we are on our way…

Thursday, April 26, 2007

 



26th April, 07

We woke up early and so Rich suggested we go for a run on the promenade. This was a brilliant idea and I almost died. It was really good and we both felt good after. We had a good breakfast and then headed into Manaus city on the local bus- our last journey on local transportation. We went to Palacio Negro which was the house of a former German rubber baron and then sold to the first Governor of the state. They have a small tour of the palace and a few museums around and so it is now a cultural centre.The palace still holds the original furniture and art works and a lot of the wood was designed in Europe and the art pieces are from all over the world, even from countries like China. Manaus was a very rich city at the time of the rubber boom and the people who lived in this city were very wealthy; and in fact the story goes that anything that needed to be washed (even clothing) was sent to Europe because they believed that the river (Rio Negro or Black River) was dirty. This was our last bit of sightseeing and then we went to a great fruit juice bar. It started to pour and we had to wait until the rain subsided a bit. Luckily it did calm down and we quickly ran to the bus stop to catch the bus back to the Tropical Hotel. We went straight to sleep – not that it was successful – and then checked out at 19h00. We sat in the lobby catching up our admin and then went for dinner on the promenade. We got back to the hotel and had to wait until 1h30 am when the shuttle would take us to the airport.

 




25 April, 07

We woke up wondering if we should leave in the morning or if we would be able to do some program we have not done yet. We managed to organize a different walk with a young Indian fellow who lives in the village/jungle who spoke no English. It was a pleasant walk and finally the rain arrived. We were soaked but it was fun. We got back and the sun came out and they sent us off on a two-man canoe. This was quite a challenge and it was very ‘wobbly’. We had fun and we went out for about one hour –not very far- we were scared that we would get lost. We then relaxed and packed and we left at lunch time on a boat that took two hours to get to the road. It was our last bit on the River and we really tried to spot some animals but it is so difficult. We were picked up by a driver and we drove for about 30 minutes and had to get on a car ferry across to Manaus city. We arrived at the 5-star Tropical hotel and decided to splurge for our final night of this long, incredible journey. The hotel is gorgeous and we even got upgraded to a deluxe room. We felt so clean and spoilt and we really needed to clean up. We went straight to the magnificent pool that appears to merge with the Amazon river. It was lovely and it felt like we were on a cruise ship again on the deck watching the sunset. We had hot showers- wow- and we got dressed up to go to El Toro Loco Restaurant (apparently the best in town). It was five- star and the service was excellent. They had every type of food from Japanese to meat to fish and freshly made pastas. We had the strongest Caipirinhas ever that we couldn’t even drink them. I felt like I was drugged but we had a good meal anyway. We got the hotel shuttle to pick us up (don’t know how we managed to pull that one off) and we rolled into our King-size bed with soft white linens.

 





24 April, 07

Today was the day I was looking forward to the most – a hike in the jungle. We didn’t have a guide because he disappeared on us yesterday and so we went with the local guy who can only speak Portuguese. He showed us some interesting trees and medicines in the forest but I am sure it would have been much more informative with a proper guide. I also swung on a real tarzan branch which was quite fun. It was boiling hot and we were drenched with sweat in our long-sleeve clothes. After the walk we stopped at Acajatuba village which was quite interesting. At the entrance to the village is a church and then a few muddy football fields. There was a hospital and a brand new school too. We found the touristy curio shop and walked around the houses. It is sad to see in a way because the original traditions and ways of living and culture have been wiped out. I guess now they have to try and keep up with the modern world. We relaxed for a couple of hours in the hammocks on the deck and it was very hot as the afternoon sun sneaked in. We have been so lucky with the weather since it is the rainy season and it should be raining every day. We waited as the new recruits arrived and there were six people. It was disappointing to see that no guide arrived with them – again! So, we had to fit in with their schedule/program and we went piranha fishing again which was fun and very beautiful and we waited out on the river until after sunset to go Caiman hunting. This was very disappointing and we didn’t really look for the caimans (alligators). We found a baby caiman and held him, saw some eyes near the waters edge and that was it. They didn’t bother looking properly and so once again we had no guide and it was probably cut short.
We got back after dark and it was fun cruising through the river in the dark. We had dinner and we were in bed by 20h30.

 





23 April, 07

We woke up nice and early and the weather was perfect. We had some breakfast and we were off to see the Big Tree (Sumaumeira). The boat trip was very nice and we spotted a few Tucans and Parrots but from afar. The tree is 300 years old and apparently the biggest in the forest?! There were bats in the tree and loads of mosquitos all over the show. On the way back we stopped at a beach and it was a bit boring since they never told us to bring along our bathing suits. But I am not sure if we would have had a swim with the piranhas anyway. We chilled out at the lodge for a couple of hours, had some lunch and saw the new recruits arriving – two American girls (Monica and Michelle). We visited a native village and Caboclo house which is where the manioc flour or farofa is made. We were given some to taste as well as Acai juice. This is a type of Black Berry that grows on specific palm trees and is supposed to be very healthy for the body and prevents certain diseases. We also had delicious fresh Brazil nuts. There was a Boa Vista snake roaming around, Rich also played darts by blowing them through his mouth with a special instrument and so it was quite an adventurous little place. We got back to the lodge at sunset and sat on the deck listening to the sounds of the birds. It didn’t rain tonight and so the noises outside were so clear and interesting.

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

 




22 April, 07

We were picked up from our Hotel and taken to the ferry port from where we boarded a boat with our guide D’Angelo. He spoke very good English and we were the only people on the boat- a private tour. We first went to where the two rivers meet, the Rio Negro and the Solimoes. One can really see where they meet and it is fascinating. The colors are so different and this is because of the different current strength, the depth of the water, the temperature difference and the density of the water. We carried on passed Manaus town and the docks and Ponta Negra and we sailed along the River for about 5 hours. We lay in hammocks and slept and had sweet pineapple and bananas. It was so beautiful and relaxing and peaceful. We arrived at Acajatuba Lodge and had some lunch before going on our afternoon tour. The lodge is very rustic and eco-friendly and simple and our room is very comfortable. We went Pirhana fishing in the afternoon along with two Polish guys and three Aussies. It was very chilled out but we never caught any fish except for the guide. He caught many- I guess there is some trick to it! We arrived back and had cold showers before dinner and the monkeys here entertained us. The big girl was trying some of the Polish dude’s Vodka and she loves coke. The little girl is very naughty and torments the parrot all the time. We got to our chalet and the electricity went off and it started to rain. It was so special and we really felt like we were in the wild.

 


21 April, 07

We woke up and had some breakfast before leaving for the airport on the local bus. It took forever and we realized that it really is quite an ugly, very poor city. Once we got to the airport we had to wait in a monstrous queue to check in with TAM airlines. There was some hold-up and our flight was delayed too. We had three seats each and we arrived in Manaus at lunch time. We had to wait for someone to pick us up at the airport and we got a free transfer to a hotel in the city centre. We picked Hotel Krystal and it wasn’t too bad. It was Saturday afternoon and we had to get some lunch so by the time we were done there was not much time for sightseeing. We visited the opera house/ theatre but there was no opera showing this evening unfortunately. We walked passed the shops and amongst the chaos down town and in the evening we got the bus to Ponta Negra. This is an area along the river with restaurants and bars and stalls and a fine hotel called ‘The Tropical’. We walked along the river and had some popcorn and visited the hotel. As the evening went by, it got busier and the stalls were quite active.
Manaus is a fairly big city and a large port; and basically a stopover for people who are heading into the jungle. We got on the bus back to our hotel passed all the favelas (seedy areas) and into bed for our big day tomorrow.

 



20 April, 07

We woke up and took it easy since we had the morning at our leisure until we had to leave at lunch time. We took a stroll on the beach (that is along the River), and there were so many different seeds and dead fish. A few birds and I spotted a snake, it wasn’t very big though and it wasn’t dangerous either. There were very weird looking fish swimming at the break – they looked like live skeletons and they were almost transparent. We relaxed at the pool again and got on the van that took us to the ferry. It was pretty seamless and we really had an amazing few days on this island. We arrived back in Belem and checked into our Machado Plaza Hotel again. We decided to head out to Das Docas for dinner and we were so impressed. It was very impressive and very pretty. They have recreated a waterfront with cranes and a big warehouse and so it looks like the docks. It is lined with lovely restaurants all along the River, lit-up and live music is playing which creates a great ambience. We had a nice evening and we were off to bed ready for our last leg of the trip – The Amazon!

 





19 April, 07

We woke up to a lovely sunny day and the animals were grazing outside. We left for a boat trip along the river and you would be amazed how strong the current is. The water is very brown and does not look appetizing at all, even though one can swim in it. We went through some mangroves and it was very short and sweet. Everyone had lunch (except for me- of course) and we went in a bigger van with a few new recruits on our afternoon tour. We had to take a ferry across the River to the capital city of the island called Soure. We first went to Praia do Pesqueiro (a beach) where the water is a mixture of salt and fresh water, with amazing seeds that are washed down from the Amazonian forests. The beach was deserted since it was quiet season and in fact ‘winter’. Not that one could feel that because we are only about half a degree away from the equator. We then drove to see the many fazendas (ranches) that are spread across the island. The island is gorgeous with fields of animals all grazing together. We passed some buffalo swimming in a swamp and then we saw the Guaras (Scarlet Ibis) - unbelievable colors. We then stopped at a local Veterinarian who owns a fazenda and breeds buffalo too who has opened her doors to tourists. An amazing lady but she could only speak Portuguese. We got a chance to ride on the buffalo and pat them. We spent some time there and then we went to see how the original ceramics were made at the time of the Indians. An original descendant (chap) was demonstrating to us how it was made using animal teeth for patterns and shining, rocks for the colors and a very ancient machine. It was very sad since it is a dying art and he is the only one left practicing this technique. The Portuguese and Europeans basically ‘wiped out’ the Indian culture and ways of life (practices). Our last stop was at a shop in the village that sold arts and crafts and all the leather goods. We were all tired and hungry and we arrived back at about 7pm. We all met for dinner again and tonight there was live entertainment. It was really a great show with Brazilian dancing taking one on a journey through the country and its many different states. We all had a few dances too.

 




18 April, 07

Oh my G-d, death warmed up. We have woken up so early and I am feeling so ill. Every muscle aches and somehow I have to get ready so that we will be on time for our pick-up to the ferry station. I got it all out (if you know what I mean) before we left and so we got to the ferry and I was so worried about it. Every time I think that there are no more boats, we have to do another one. It all went well and because we were on the Amazon River it was pretty smooth the whole way and the weather was good to. At that time of the morning the water was in fact like a lake and the sun was rising- it was gorgeous. We slept for three hours and arrived in a port called Camara on the island of Marajo from where a van picked us up and we drove another 35 minutes to a town called Salvaterra. Isla Marajo is 50 000 km squared and it is an archipelago of fluvial beaches, swamps, lagoons, forests and green fields. Its landscape changes drastically depending on the time of year and funnily enough the buffalo population exceeds the human populace. The story goes as follows: a ship on the way to India sailing towards French Guiana in about 1920 sunk and the legend is that the buffalo are descended from the animals that swam ashore. The island has many snakes, many fish (including stingrays) and many beautiful birds including the graceful Scarlet Ibis (Guara). We arrived at Pousada dos Guaras and I collapsed in the hammock outside the room whilst Rich ‘doby-wallahed’ (washed –for those of you who didn’t read the India section) the clothes yet again. We lay by the pool and relaxed until we had to meet at reception for our tour. The grounds were very pretty and everything was very natural. There were horses and buffalo in the gardens roaming around and the pousada had such a nice feel to it. There was a French couple (Chloe and Gium), a Brazilian girl (Luciana), an Argentine girl (Celina) and a miserable old couple on our tour and we started in the town of Joanes. We saw the remnants of the first Jesuit church that was set up in the 17th century by the first Portugese who colonized this area. This was at the Bay of Para on the Paracauari River, not the Amazon River, and this was pretty much the whole village. We then drove to the centre of Salvaterra (the village that we are staying in). A pathetic museum and a few shops lined the street with the pharmacy, butcher and a few mercados. It was very simple and quiet and ‘chilled-out’. A few people bought some buffalo cheese- apparently it is delicious. But, having this bug/diarrhea I cannot have the pleasure of trying it. We got back to the pousada and met the group for dinner – they are all lovely people and we had a bit of Portugese, French, Spanish and English going. The bug is still lurking…

This page is powered by Blogger. Isn't yours?