Heidi & Richard Bendel's travels

2007-05-06T13:17:00.000-07:00

Epilogue

We would like to thank the following people for being a part of our journey:

Robert (aka Bart) and Sylwia, Oli and Neevah – it had been more than 7 years since Rich had seen Bart, but it was as if they had seen each other just the other day. We had a great time with you guys and really hope you will come visit us soon. In fact, we had such a great time that we kept on coming back to meet up again. You guys showed us around Germany and really made us change our views on Germany – it is an amazing country with really great people.

Grant & Nikki for meeting up with us in Italy – we had an awesome time together. Hopefully we meet again very soon.

Faye and Tianshi – we met in Vienna for maybe 20 minutes initially, and then you really helped us tremendously in China. Our day with you Faye (pity Tianshi was away) in Shanghai we will never forget. Thanks for that. We really do hope you will come visit us in South Africa.

Mr Kim and family – we had never met until we arrived in Seoul. My friend Alex as we call him in South Africa told us to get in touch with you and we were really glad we did. You spoilt us rotten and made us feel totally at home in your country. We are also hoping that you will come visit us in Cape Town and hopefully we will make your stay as enjoyable.

Daryl – we just happened to be in Japan at the same time as Rich’s brother Daryl. It was great to see family and spend some time together. Thanks also for the free 5 star breakfast we had.

Noboru, Kumi and Yuki – we met going up Jungfraujoch in Switzerland and we were hoping to meet up again in Japan. Thanks to all your help we managed to meet you all in Tokyo and Kyoto. We had the best time and were shown the local scene. You all spoilt us so much. We have not stopped telling everyone how amazing your family is and how amazing the Japanese people are. Please come visit us. Our house will always be open to you all.

Coby and Robyn – how amazing meeting with you guys. Rich overheard you talking to some local Hawaiians and you mentioned you were from Canada. Well, Canada was our next stop (we were on our way that night to Canada) and Rich was actually reading the Canada Lonely Planet. We had a great afternoon together, then dinner together before we headed off to Canada. But we were to meet again in Toronto some 3 weeks later. Thanks for a lovely dinner (home-cooked) and an awesome last few hours in Canada. Hopefully we can meet up in Israel or maybe you can make the long trek to South Africa. You both are an inspiration to us. Thanks for everything.

Perry, Laureen, Daniel and Asher – we think that one of the most amazing things to happen in our travels is to re-acquaint ourselves with old friends like you guys. Rich grew up with you guys, but then had lost contact. It is sad, but a fact of life in South Africa that so many people have left. We had a really great time with you (even tho’ this was our first introduction to Canada and the bitter cold and snow). You welcomed us into your home for which we are truly grateful. We really are looking forward to you coming to Cape Town and spoiling you. I am sure that by then, Daniel will be reciting every multiplication table and everything else to do with numbers.

Mark (aka Pubes), Sharon, Joshua and Amy – we really don’t know how to thank you guys enough. You opened your home to us and made us feel welcome. You took time off work to show us around, you came to Banff to spend a weekend with us and not to mention all the BBQ’s (or braai’s) that Pubes did in the -25 degree Celcius weather outside. Those steaks are tops in the world. The ice hockey game was also amazing (pity the Flames didn’t go all the way). We can’t wait until you come visit us in Cape Town. I can promise we won’t have weather as cold as you had for us.

Rich M, Suzy, Joshua, Benny and Amy – what can we say about you guys??? From even before we arrived in Toronto we knew that we would have things easy. Suzy was now in charge of our lives for almost a week. Our decision making was now ceded to Suzy. What a relief. We could relax and chill out (literally and figuratively). While Rich M was slogging away trying to finish his audit, Suzy looked after us. Rich M – thanks for taking time off from your busiest time of year to be with us. You don’t know how grateful we are. I think that Rich B really took to kids once he met your kids. Josh, Benny and Rich B were constantly playing hockey, football, or throwing ball. Benny was also on Rich B’s back and shoulders most of the week being thrown around. We will never forget all the “padkos” that Suzy packed for us. When we arrived in Venezuela we just opened our bag and there was this fresh banana loaf courtesy of Suzy. Guys – we really are so grateful for everything you did for us. We can’t wait until you come visit us here in SA. We will babysit your kids anytime.

Hardy and Odalis – how do you thank a crazy Austrian and his lovely Venezuelan girlfriend? You guys don’t know how much you helped us in Venezuela. We were a bit lost when we met you on the bus going to Choroni and you took us under your wing. We not only shared great times (and many cervezas) in Choroni, but the weekend we spent with you at your amazing home in San Juan de Los Morros. You really did inspire us. The easy 2-hour hike you took us on that turned into more than 6 hours of pain (where we nearly lost Rich to another world) was also fun (when we look back). We hope that one day we can help you as much as you helped us and look forward to meeting up again soon (hopefully at our home in Cape Town).

Rene (aka Renzo) and Julia (aka JR) – well our plans were actually to skip USA mainland. Our plans seem to have changed. We made it to Atlanta airport about 8 times, but to the city twice and what a lovely city. You seemed to sort the weather out nicely for us as well. Thanks a mill for those buddy passes to Costa Rica and taking time out your busy schedules (?????) to join us in Costa Rica for 3 days. We had an amazing time drinking cerveza, talking rubbish, arguing with numerous people, but generally having lots of laughs. Thanks also for showing us around Atlanta (from the Waffle House, to Einsteins, to local breweries, and other local eateries and drinking spots). We are looking forward to hopefully meeting up with you in Kruger National Park soon. We will have to spoil you there.

Marga Bendel-Bauer – amazing as it is, when we arrived in Morro de Sao Paulo, we had earmarked only 1 pousada to go to and that was Pousada Colibri. From the minute we arrived there and met Marga we knew we belonged. You made us feel so welcome at your pousada. Only after about 30 minutes did we finally realize that your maiden surname and our surname is the same (and Bendel is not a common surname). It actually almost felt as if we were family somehow. You have the best pousada in the world and your island is also the best place ever. We have not stopped telling people that they have to go to Morro and stay at your pousada. Thanks so much for everything you did and the truly amazing gift you gave us. We will always treasure it. We honestly hope that one day, you and your family come visit us in Cape Town. We hope that we can make you feel as welcome in our house as you made us feel in your pousada.

There are also many other people that we met along the way that changed our perspectives on life and views on people. We had many drinks and dinners with people from all different nations, shared many great stories, travel tips, travel horrors and the like who we would like to thank. We have shared contact details with numerous people and we really do hope that some of you do come and visit us in Cape Town. Our house is open to you all.

Bye for now!

2007-05-06T12:44:00.000-07:00

28 April, 07

Arriving home!
This morning we arrived in Johannesburg, South Africa. Simsie, Rich’s brother-in-law came to fetch us at the airport and we spent the morning with Charlene and Simsie and their baby boy Jake. It was weird to be back and to be eating ‘normal’ food. Thank you Charlene for all the food and snacks and it was great to see you guys. We left Jhb in the late afternoon and we arrived in Cape Town at about 19h00. Finally, we were home!!!
My dad fetched us from the airport and we had dinner in our own home with my folks. The house felt empty and a bit strange but it was good to be back and in our own bed. The shower felt so good and hot and we walked around the house looking and smelling and familiarizing ourselves, I guess just like any other animal. We have mixed feelings and we are very tired and it will take a few days to settle down and find our feet. It has been the most incredible journey and experience and if anybody needs some travel advice, just give us a call. We have seen the most amazing places on earth and met the best people.

2007-05-06T12:37:00.000-07:00

27 April, 07

We waited at the Manaus airport for our flight and it was delayed by almost three hours. Therefore we sat in the airport until about 6am and didn’t sleep the entire night. We arrived in Sao Paulo at 11h00 exhausted and luckily we had access to the Diners club lounge. There was no shower but it is new and clean and somewhere to sit for a few hours until our flight for Johannesburg, South Africa. We are looking forward to getting home! A few fights with SAA before leaving but we are on our way…

2007-04-26T20:21:00.000-07:00

26th April, 07

We woke up early and so Rich suggested we go for a run on the promenade. This was a brilliant idea and I almost died. It was really good and we both felt good after. We had a good breakfast and then headed into Manaus city on the local bus- our last journey on local transportation. We went to Palacio Negro which was the house of a former German rubber baron and then sold to the first Governor of the state. They have a small tour of the palace and a few museums around and so it is now a cultural centre.The palace still holds the original furniture and art works and a lot of the wood was designed in Europe and the art pieces are from all over the world, even from countries like China. Manaus was a very rich city at the time of the rubber boom and the people who lived in this city were very wealthy; and in fact the story goes that anything that needed to be washed (even clothing) was sent to Europe because they believed that the river (Rio Negro or Black River) was dirty. This was our last bit of sightseeing and then we went to a great fruit juice bar. It started to pour and we had to wait until the rain subsided a bit. Luckily it did calm down and we quickly ran to the bus stop to catch the bus back to the Tropical Hotel. We went straight to sleep – not that it was successful – and then checked out at 19h00. We sat in the lobby catching up our admin and then went for dinner on the promenade. We got back to the hotel and had to wait until 1h30 am when the shuttle would take us to the airport.

2007-04-26T20:18:00.000-07:00

25 April, 07

We woke up wondering if we should leave in the morning or if we would be able to do some program we have not done yet. We managed to organize a different walk with a young Indian fellow who lives in the village/jungle who spoke no English. It was a pleasant walk and finally the rain arrived. We were soaked but it was fun. We got back and the sun came out and they sent us off on a two-man canoe. This was quite a challenge and it was very ‘wobbly’. We had fun and we went out for about one hour –not very far- we were scared that we would get lost. We then relaxed and packed and we left at lunch time on a boat that took two hours to get to the road. It was our last bit on the River and we really tried to spot some animals but it is so difficult. We were picked up by a driver and we drove for about 30 minutes and had to get on a car ferry across to Manaus city. We arrived at the 5-star Tropical hotel and decided to splurge for our final night of this long, incredible journey. The hotel is gorgeous and we even got upgraded to a deluxe room. We felt so clean and spoilt and we really needed to clean up. We went straight to the magnificent pool that appears to merge with the Amazon river. It was lovely and it felt like we were on a cruise ship again on the deck watching the sunset. We had hot showers- wow- and we got dressed up to go to El Toro Loco Restaurant (apparently the best in town). It was five- star and the service was excellent. They had every type of food from Japanese to meat to fish and freshly made pastas. We had the strongest Caipirinhas ever that we couldn’t even drink them. I felt like I was drugged but we had a good meal anyway. We got the hotel shuttle to pick us up (don’t know how we managed to pull that one off) and we rolled into our King-size bed with soft white linens.

2007-04-26T20:14:00.000-07:00

24 April, 07

Today was the day I was looking forward to the most – a hike in the jungle. We didn’t have a guide because he disappeared on us yesterday and so we went with the local guy who can only speak Portuguese. He showed us some interesting trees and medicines in the forest but I am sure it would have been much more informative with a proper guide. I also swung on a real tarzan branch which was quite fun. It was boiling hot and we were drenched with sweat in our long-sleeve clothes. After the walk we stopped at Acajatuba village which was quite interesting. At the entrance to the village is a church and then a few muddy football fields. There was a hospital and a brand new school too. We found the touristy curio shop and walked around the houses. It is sad to see in a way because the original traditions and ways of living and culture have been wiped out. I guess now they have to try and keep up with the modern world. We relaxed for a couple of hours in the hammocks on the deck and it was very hot as the afternoon sun sneaked in. We have been so lucky with the weather since it is the rainy season and it should be raining every day. We waited as the new recruits arrived and there were six people. It was disappointing to see that no guide arrived with them – again! So, we had to fit in with their schedule/program and we went piranha fishing again which was fun and very beautiful and we waited out on the river until after sunset to go Caiman hunting. This was very disappointing and we didn’t really look for the caimans (alligators). We found a baby caiman and held him, saw some eyes near the waters edge and that was it. They didn’t bother looking properly and so once again we had no guide and it was probably cut short.
We got back after dark and it was fun cruising through the river in the dark. We had dinner and we were in bed by 20h30.

2007-04-26T20:09:00.000-07:00

23 April, 07

We woke up nice and early and the weather was perfect. We had some breakfast and we were off to see the Big Tree (Sumaumeira). The boat trip was very nice and we spotted a few Tucans and Parrots but from afar. The tree is 300 years old and apparently the biggest in the forest?! There were bats in the tree and loads of mosquitos all over the show. On the way back we stopped at a beach and it was a bit boring since they never told us to bring along our bathing suits. But I am not sure if we would have had a swim with the piranhas anyway. We chilled out at the lodge for a couple of hours, had some lunch and saw the new recruits arriving – two American girls (Monica and Michelle). We visited a native village and Caboclo house which is where the manioc flour or farofa is made. We were given some to taste as well as Acai juice. This is a type of Black Berry that grows on specific palm trees and is supposed to be very healthy for the body and prevents certain diseases. We also had delicious fresh Brazil nuts. There was a Boa Vista snake roaming around, Rich also played darts by blowing them through his mouth with a special instrument and so it was quite an adventurous little place. We got back to the lodge at sunset and sat on the deck listening to the sounds of the birds. It didn’t rain tonight and so the noises outside were so clear and interesting.

2007-04-25T18:58:00.000-07:00

22 April, 07

We were picked up from our Hotel and taken to the ferry port from where we boarded a boat with our guide D’Angelo. He spoke very good English and we were the only people on the boat- a private tour. We first went to where the two rivers meet, the Rio Negro and the Solimoes. One can really see where they meet and it is fascinating. The colors are so different and this is because of the different current strength, the depth of the water, the temperature difference and the density of the water. We carried on passed Manaus town and the docks and Ponta Negra and we sailed along the River for about 5 hours. We lay in hammocks and slept and had sweet pineapple and bananas. It was so beautiful and relaxing and peaceful. We arrived at Acajatuba Lodge and had some lunch before going on our afternoon tour. The lodge is very rustic and eco-friendly and simple and our room is very comfortable. We went Pirhana fishing in the afternoon along with two Polish guys and three Aussies. It was very chilled out but we never caught any fish except for the guide. He caught many- I guess there is some trick to it! We arrived back and had cold showers before dinner and the monkeys here entertained us. The big girl was trying some of the Polish dude’s Vodka and she loves coke. The little girl is very naughty and torments the parrot all the time. We got to our chalet and the electricity went off and it started to rain. It was so special and we really felt like we were in the wild.

2007-04-25T16:21:00.000-07:00

21 April, 07

We woke up and had some breakfast before leaving for the airport on the local bus. It took forever and we realized that it really is quite an ugly, very poor city. Once we got to the airport we had to wait in a monstrous queue to check in with TAM airlines. There was some hold-up and our flight was delayed too. We had three seats each and we arrived in Manaus at lunch time. We had to wait for someone to pick us up at the airport and we got a free transfer to a hotel in the city centre. We picked Hotel Krystal and it wasn’t too bad. It was Saturday afternoon and we had to get some lunch so by the time we were done there was not much time for sightseeing. We visited the opera house/ theatre but there was no opera showing this evening unfortunately. We walked passed the shops and amongst the chaos down town and in the evening we got the bus to Ponta Negra. This is an area along the river with restaurants and bars and stalls and a fine hotel called ‘The Tropical’. We walked along the river and had some popcorn and visited the hotel. As the evening went by, it got busier and the stalls were quite active.
Manaus is a fairly big city and a large port; and basically a stopover for people who are heading into the jungle. We got on the bus back to our hotel passed all the favelas (seedy areas) and into bed for our big day tomorrow.

2007-04-25T16:19:00.000-07:00

20 April, 07

We woke up and took it easy since we had the morning at our leisure until we had to leave at lunch time. We took a stroll on the beach (that is along the River), and there were so many different seeds and dead fish. A few birds and I spotted a snake, it wasn’t very big though and it wasn’t dangerous either. There were very weird looking fish swimming at the break – they looked like live skeletons and they were almost transparent. We relaxed at the pool again and got on the van that took us to the ferry. It was pretty seamless and we really had an amazing few days on this island. We arrived back in Belem and checked into our Machado Plaza Hotel again. We decided to head out to Das Docas for dinner and we were so impressed. It was very impressive and very pretty. They have recreated a waterfront with cranes and a big warehouse and so it looks like the docks. It is lined with lovely restaurants all along the River, lit-up and live music is playing which creates a great ambience. We had a nice evening and we were off to bed ready for our last leg of the trip – The Amazon!

2007-04-25T16:15:00.000-07:00

19 April, 07

We woke up to a lovely sunny day and the animals were grazing outside. We left for a boat trip along the river and you would be amazed how strong the current is. The water is very brown and does not look appetizing at all, even though one can swim in it. We went through some mangroves and it was very short and sweet. Everyone had lunch (except for me- of course) and we went in a bigger van with a few new recruits on our afternoon tour. We had to take a ferry across the River to the capital city of the island called Soure. We first went to Praia do Pesqueiro (a beach) where the water is a mixture of salt and fresh water, with amazing seeds that are washed down from the Amazonian forests. The beach was deserted since it was quiet season and in fact ‘winter’. Not that one could feel that because we are only about half a degree away from the equator. We then drove to see the many fazendas (ranches) that are spread across the island. The island is gorgeous with fields of animals all grazing together. We passed some buffalo swimming in a swamp and then we saw the Guaras (Scarlet Ibis) - unbelievable colors. We then stopped at a local Veterinarian who owns a fazenda and breeds buffalo too who has opened her doors to tourists. An amazing lady but she could only speak Portuguese. We got a chance to ride on the buffalo and pat them. We spent some time there and then we went to see how the original ceramics were made at the time of the Indians. An original descendant (chap) was demonstrating to us how it was made using animal teeth for patterns and shining, rocks for the colors and a very ancient machine. It was very sad since it is a dying art and he is the only one left practicing this technique. The Portuguese and Europeans basically ‘wiped out’ the Indian culture and ways of life (practices). Our last stop was at a shop in the village that sold arts and crafts and all the leather goods. We were all tired and hungry and we arrived back at about 7pm. We all met for dinner again and tonight there was live entertainment. It was really a great show with Brazilian dancing taking one on a journey through the country and its many different states. We all had a few dances too.

2007-04-25T16:12:00.000-07:00

18 April, 07

Oh my G-d, death warmed up. We have woken up so early and I am feeling so ill. Every muscle aches and somehow I have to get ready so that we will be on time for our pick-up to the ferry station. I got it all out (if you know what I mean) before we left and so we got to the ferry and I was so worried about it. Every time I think that there are no more boats, we have to do another one. It all went well and because we were on the Amazon River it was pretty smooth the whole way and the weather was good to. At that time of the morning the water was in fact like a lake and the sun was rising- it was gorgeous. We slept for three hours and arrived in a port called Camara on the island of Marajo from where a van picked us up and we drove another 35 minutes to a town called Salvaterra. Isla Marajo is 50 000 km squared and it is an archipelago of fluvial beaches, swamps, lagoons, forests and green fields. Its landscape changes drastically depending on the time of year and funnily enough the buffalo population exceeds the human populace. The story goes as follows: a ship on the way to India sailing towards French Guiana in about 1920 sunk and the legend is that the buffalo are descended from the animals that swam ashore. The island has many snakes, many fish (including stingrays) and many beautiful birds including the graceful Scarlet Ibis (Guara). We arrived at Pousada dos Guaras and I collapsed in the hammock outside the room whilst Rich ‘doby-wallahed’ (washed –for those of you who didn’t read the India section) the clothes yet again. We lay by the pool and relaxed until we had to meet at reception for our tour. The grounds were very pretty and everything was very natural. There were horses and buffalo in the gardens roaming around and the pousada had such a nice feel to it. There was a French couple (Chloe and Gium), a Brazilian girl (Luciana), an Argentine girl (Celina) and a miserable old couple on our tour and we started in the town of Joanes. We saw the remnants of the first Jesuit church that was set up in the 17th century by the first Portugese who colonized this area. This was at the Bay of Para on the Paracauari River, not the Amazon River, and this was pretty much the whole village. We then drove to the centre of Salvaterra (the village that we are staying in). A pathetic museum and a few shops lined the street with the pharmacy, butcher and a few mercados. It was very simple and quiet and ‘chilled-out’. A few people bought some buffalo cheese- apparently it is delicious. But, having this bug/diarrhea I cannot have the pleasure of trying it. We got back to the pousada and met the group for dinner – they are all lovely people and we had a bit of Portugese, French, Spanish and English going. The bug is still lurking…

2007-04-25T16:11:00.000-07:00

17 April, 07

Belem is the economic centre of the Amazon and the state capital of Para. It is a big city with the largest port in the Amazon and it is known as the “gateway to the Amazon”. It is rich historically and culturally but the city is big and ugly and dirty and they have only recently started to clean it up for tourism. We arrived here in Belem at about midday and we caught another local bus into the city. This was very easy but finding accommodation wasn’t. We eventually happened to fall upon Machado Plaza Hotel and thank goodness we did because I was ready to get on the next flight out of here. We settled in the room and for some stupid reason we decided to ask the reception where they recommend for us to eat. We were starving and I guess our brains were not functioning properly. Our golden rule is generally to eat in the restaurants recommended in the guide book and we had already decided where we were heading to. Anyway, I am emphasizing this whole matter because this meal would change a lot of things for the next couple of days- not in a good way either! After a terrible lunch we walked around a little like zombies through the market and we were on our way to book a ferry for tomorrow when we arrived at the central tourist information office. They were so helpful and polite and they advised us to take a tour rather than try to do Isla Marajo (an island nearby) on our own. For some reason we actually believed them and instead of buying the ferry tickets we got back to another agency to organize our trip. At this stage I was exhausted and ill from the food so I went back to the hotel room. I was shaking and feeling really bad and nauseas and I slept whilst Rich organized the tour for the next three days. We were both asleep by 19h00 since we had to wake up for the ferry at 4h30am. And, we didn’t really sleep last night so we needed as much sleep as possible. From what we saw of the city, besides the tourist sights i.e. museums and buildings, it is an ugly, dirty and poor city with spurts of greenery and parks lurking in between.

2007-04-20T20:07:00.000-07:00

16 April, 07

We had another mellow day in ‘Jeri’ walking around and along the beach. We walked to the famous rock with a hole in it that is on every postcard and picture that advertises this place. The walk there was on and off the beach, on the dunes and great views of the ocean. It was so quiet and beautiful and untouched. We spent the rest of the day on these massive loungers by the beach and then we went for our afternoon nap because tonight we will not get much sleep. We were very lucky again because we got a late check-out – at 22h00 and our bus would leave at 22h30. We went for a shocking dinner and then got ready to leave. We got on the truck first and drove along the beach passed the dunes on the waters edge in pitch darkness. Then we reached the town Jijoca where we changed to a normal bus and we broke down after one hour. There was something wrong with the engine and at 1am we had to wait for another bus to fetch us. The rest of the trip was ok and we arrived in Fortaleza at the main bus station at about 5h30am.

2007-04-20T19:51:00.000-07:00

15 April, 07

We are still alive, kicking and happy 9 months later. Today we decided to do a day tour and our friends Lee and Flavia would join us. We got in a little jeep buggy and we drove off into the dunes along the beach. It was wonderful – so energizing. We had to cross a few lagoons with a raft and we drove through tiny fishing villages. We saw an owl and a few pigs, goats, chickens, cows, horses and donkeys. The villages were so primitive and remote and there is one public phone in each village as well as a TV in the main square from which everyone can watch (if it isn’t raining). We arrived in Tatajuba- an old town that was covered by a sand dune and then the town moved and the church was rebuilt. We jumped off some really high sand dunes having lots of fun seeing who could jump the furthest. Then we arrived at a big lagoon which is excellent for kite surfing and windsurfing. We, however, were not so adventurous and lazed on the hammocks and had a caipirinha in the water whilst we waited for our fresh fish to arrive. It started to pour and so we waited about one hour for the rain to stop. We drove back to Jericoacoara along the dunes with our maniac driver and through rivers and whatever else. It was really a fun day and we met Lee and Flavia for dinner. We were supposed to meet at a highly recommended restaurant called ‘Chocolate’ but when we saw the prices we went elsewhere. In general, it is not cheap at all, in fact it is quite expensive and we found another spot which served the most amazing seafood risotto. We were stuffed!

2007-04-17T15:45:00.000-07:00

14 April, 07

Today was quite a rainy day and it didn’t really stop; on and off the whole day. We still went for our walk along the beach and it was so beautiful. There was absolutely nobody else around except for a few pigs and cows. The dunes were so pretty and there were many lagoons too. On our way back the rain arrived and we were drenched by the time we reached the hotel. It was a very relaxing day and we had a Jacuzzi as the sun set. We went into the town for dinner and it was very quiet. There were not too many people around and I guess it was a good excuse for another early night.

2007-04-17T15:41:00.000-07:00

13 April, 07

What a horrible pousada. Nobody greeted us at breakfast and we hated the atmosphere. After the two amazing pousadas in Morro and Chiapada to this place! Well, we had a decent breakfast and went looking for a different place to stay. We looked around all 5 sand roads of the town and found Hotel Mosquito Blue. The reception was excellent and friendly and the grounds were very pretty. It was also right on the beach and obviously a little bit pricier. We moved our luggage and settled on the beach for the rest of the morning. We met Lee from Australia and Flavia from Argentina (just married) and as the sun was setting we all took a walk up the sand dunes for some great views. The beach goes on for miles and there are loads of sand dunes one after the other. We got back to the hotel and lay in the room watching the news- something that we hadn’t done for soooo long. It felt so strange. As we reminisced about our long holiday we were comparing different holiday destinations and we both agreed that Jericoacoara is not the ideal honeymoon destination even though it has so much to offer and it can be very romantic. Rich said “there is high potential for a fight”, since with all the hassle of transportation and the amount of time it takes to get here, it is not very stress-free. Anyway, we had a lovely dinner on the beach and fed a kitty all our scraps. It is very quiet here and the beaches are deserted during the day. Perhaps a bit too quiet for us.

2007-04-17T15:39:00.000-07:00

12 April, 2007

We had an average breakfast at the Praiano Hotel in Fortaleza and then we took a walk along the promenade to Praia de Iracema, a part of the city that really thrives at night with pubs and restaurants. It was very quiet and so we walked back to our hotel and decided to go the other way to Fortuna beach- 5km away. The start of the walk was very pretty and then we got to the industrial zone…say no more. We walked and walked and eventually after 4 km we got to a dead end. We had to either walk in a dodgy side road or turn back. So, we got the bus back to Meireles and went straight to the beach for a swim and a drink. The water was so warm and the waves were perfect. We moved to another beach café and had some lunch with a few drinks too many. We were so relaxed and we made our way to the hotel to shower and pack for the bus. The hotel gave us a very late check-out- it was great. We left at about 17h30 on the bus to Jericoacoara (pronounced Jeri-kwah-kwah-rah). We didn’t really sleep and it took about 6 hours to get to a little town called Jujuka. From there we all got onto an open truck and it took another hour of driving along the coast and on the sand dunes in the pitch dark until we reached ‘Jeri’. We arrived at Pousada de Norte the one we had booked into, at about 1am and the fellow there spoke no English. We filled in a form, he walked us to the room and left us with the key outside the door. We fiddled in the dark to get the key in the door and had a fight with the air conditioning system. After a shower we collapsed into bed.

2007-04-17T15:37:00.000-07:00

11 April, 07

The bus journey wasn’t great and it stopped several times along the way. We didn’t sleep much and when we arrived in Salvador we were quite tired. We got to the main bus station (Rodoviario) at about 06h30 and the shopping mall across the road was closed. We waited for the airport bus and it took about an hour until we got there. I think we saw every nook and cranny in Salvador and we eventually got to the airport. We had a quick bite and a coffee and checked in for our flight to Fortaleza. The flight was fairly empty and so we had three seats each and we slept a bit, even though it was quite a short flight. Fortaleza, in Ceara State, is the Northeast’s most important fishing port and commercial centre. Fortaleza’s main attractions are the beaches and serves as a jumping–off point for many other destinations. We arrived here, in another great city, and got the local bus into Meireles – a recommended beach area lined with high-rise hotels and restaurants. It was easy but we did have to take two buses and it was very warm outside (30 degrees).
We found a hotel very quickly and this was such a relief because it was so hot and we really needed to shower- BADLY. The hotel is very well-located and right across the road from the beach and the craft market. When we arrived, the market was not there and in a matter of one or two hours they had set up an entire market and this would be open until 11h00/12h00 at night and then they pack up completely and start again tomorrow. We walked around and took a walk along the busy promenade very slowly watching all the locals doing there ‘thing’ after a days work. Everyone was running and cycling or walking and it felt a little like Rio de Janeiro. We had a plate of shrimp (camarao) at a beach bar and we couldn’t keep our eyes open anymore. We got to our room and all I remember were the most incredible pillows ever.

2007-04-17T15:32:00.000-07:00

10 April, 2007

We decided to do our own walk today instead of waking up early again and doing a full day guided tour. We slept in a bit, had a lovely breakfast with the rest of the pousada and then lazed around whilst it rained a little. Once the rain had stopped we ventured out for a walk to some waterfalls. We started out alright but then things got a bit tricky and we got a bit lost. We had to cross the river a few times and were not sure which waterfalls we were looking for so we followed many paths and saw quite a few falls. We had a shower under one of them and it was really special. There is so much natural beauty here and I think one can walk for hours if they choose to do so. We headed back through the Serrano (many natural pools) overlooking the town of Lencois, and had a delicious pasta before we got back to the pousada. We relaxed there, chatting to everyone, lots of travelers from different parts of Brazil, from The Netherlands and a guy (Daniel) from the US - really great people. We all went out for dinner together and it was really fun. They were all planning the big hike for tomorrow and we were unfortunately leaving on the 23h30 bus tonight. We had to get back after dinner and get to the bus station for our 6 hour journey back to Salvador- yeh!

2007-04-17T15:28:00.000-07:00

9 April, 2007

The Chapada Diamantina (Diamond Highlands) is located in the very centre of Bahia state. There are rolling hills and hidden valleys and the town is small with cobbled streets. The population in Lencois, which is the biggest town, is only about 4 500 people. There are many hikes and beautiful natural waterfalls in the area and everything is very green. We started our day early with a full guided tour. There were only 4 of us in the car and so it was very comfortable. The other couple was from Belgium and we had a very nice day together. Our guide spoke very good English and he was very nice too. We started the day with a little hike to the most amazing waterfalls and a massive pool for swimming. We spent some time there and then walked back to the car. Our next stop was very beautiful; we climbed up a small mountain and the views from the top were incredible. The whole of the Chiapada Diamanta was below us and our guide told us some stories that are legends whilst we sat in the breeze admiring the view. Then we drove on a dirt road to our lunch spot and there was a clean river that we could swim in. There were so many fish swimming around and a whole row of greedy ducks came passed us- really cute. We visited a cave that was reflecting a blue light – it was very pretty and apparently the reason for this is the sulphur in the water. Our last stop was an amazingly large cave with a high ceiling and it almost felt like a cathedral. There were many stalactite and stalagmite formations and a few crystals too. It was a very silent tour because the guide could only speak Portuguese- this was a problem. Anyway, we walked quite a bit in the cave and then the guide turned the lamp off and it was so silent and eerie. Some would say it was peaceful but I guess that depends on what your thoughts are at the time!? We drove back to Lencois on a really bad road – even by our standards – and fell asleep. As we arrived at the pousada everyone was so friendly and we were offered some tea and biscuits. It is a very special pousada and the people that stay here are special too (like a family). Besides, the fact that the Bahian hospitality is unbelievable. We went for a good Picanha (rump steak) again and we sat on the cobbled streets and made friends with the entire street –almost. It was a fun evening.

2007-04-17T15:25:00.000-07:00

8 April, 07

At least the buses are not as cold as Venezuela and we were equipped with our blankets from the airplane and our sweaters too. We arrived very early in the morning, at about 5h30 am and we had already booked accommodation at a pousada recommended to us by some guests in Morro (Thanks for the recommendation Barbara and Peter). It is run by a lovely man called Alcino and he is an artist. His home is so comfortable and cozy and it is a beautiful guesthouse. Someone from the house met us at the bus station and brought us to the pousada. We went straight to our room to sleep for about 3 hours. Alcino then woke us up for breakfast and we were still so tired. Thank goodness we didn’t skip breakfast because it was amazing. Everyone sits at a big wooden table with wooden benches on the patio and the food just keeps coming. There were lots of traditional dishes and fresh fruits and everyone was very friendly. After a slow breakfast we walked into the little town and found a place to book our trek for tomorrow. We came back to the Pousada to fetch Andrea (from Rio de Janeiro) who joined us on a short hike. We walked to the mudslides and some waterfalls with natural pools. It was very pretty and relaxing and we swam in the little pools and lay on the rocks in the sun. We returned just before dark and Rich found the TV that had satellite. He was so excited because he could watch the end of the Final round of the Masters Golf Tournament. We had a great Picanha dish (meat on the grill) for dinner and we collapsed into bed.

2007-04-17T15:13:00.000-07:00

7 April, 2007

A very sad day for us because we are leaving Morro de Sao Paulo this afternoon and we don’t really want to. It has been a whole week so we cannot really complain. We woke up late after our hectic evening out and we had our last wonderful breakfast. I want to thank Marga for the amazing gift that you gave us – it is very special and we will have fond memories of our stay with you.
We spent the day at the pool chatting with a few other guests and before we knew it, it was time to leave for the ferry. We walked down the steep hill for the last time and we got on the catamaran. The wind was quite strong and so the ocean was not as smooth and calm as our previous journey. We both felt a bit queasy and we had to stand outside in the fresh air watching the horizon all the time. The sun set as we were sailing and as it got dark we could see Salvador’s city lights in front of us. It was very pretty sailing under the stars and moon light. Luckily neither of us got sick and we reached Salvador at about 7pm. We had to catch a bus from the ferry terminal to the main bus station for our next overnight bus (6hrs) to Lencois. We had a few hours to kill and so we walked across the road to a big shopping mall and browsed around for a while. We managed to find a wireless connection as well so that helped the time to pass by fairly quickly. I felt so dirty and salty from the ferry and my hair was all tangled and knotty but there was nowhere to wash and so we had to get on the bus all sticky- yuk! Only 6 hrs to go…

2007-04-17T15:07:00.000-07:00

6 April, 07

We did another long walk today all the way passed the mangroves and to 5th beach. It was very far but very quiet too and the tide was still low. We sat on the hard sand until the water came up and then we made our way back stopping at 4th beach for a few dips in the ocean. We finally reached our restaurant on 3rd and had some late lunch as the sun was setting. Our waiter is such a honey and he always serves us. He knows how we like our caipirinhas too. We then found a travel agency with a fellow named Floyd who helped us book our last three weeks of vacation in Brazil. We have to fly to most places because this country is so big. Tonight is a big night because it is the weekend but there is also a disco and it should be a BIG party. We had our usual swim in the pool after our sweaty trek back to the pousada and we soaked up the quiet and calm before heading down to the village. We met up with Jessica and Kiko from our pousada and we all had a light snack on the beach enjoying some cocktails. At about midnight we got to the disco with our VIP cards and it was quiet at first. The disco was an open air disco. This is possible since the weather on the island is just perfect. We also met our American friends (Judy and Adrienne) who we had met earlier at Floyd’s travel agency and we all chatted about Brazil and our travels. Then it started to fill up and we left at about 2h00 am - it was getting too late for us ‘old toppies’. We also realized that we had a hectic day ahead of us the next day so we needed some sleep.

2007-04-07T18:27:00.000-07:00

5 April, 2007

We woke up again to a delicious breakfast and getting served like kings on the patio overlooking the ocean. We walked on 4th beach stopping along the way and swimming in the tidal pools (it was low tide). The water was very warm and the pools were so clear and pretty. We reached the end of 4th beach (4km) and collapsed in the shade for a while. We played ‘hangman’ with our ice cream sticks and then went for a very long amazing swim as the tide was coming in. We made our way to the famous restaurant –AGAIN- and I tried the coco verde (coconut water) instead of the usual Caiparinha. We had our usual swim in the pool and we sat at the pousada enjoying the peace and calm and absolute silence on the hilltop under the stars before heading down to the town. As we walked back through the little town the nightlife was starting and it was definitely more crowded. People were already arriving for the Easter weekend. Tonight was quite a big party on the beach- everyone dancing and drinking- except for us – I promise. Rich had a bit of a cold again so he is trying to brush it off quickly. The whole beach transforms into cocktail bars and palm trees for the evening activity- quite amazing! Everyone only gets going at about 23h00 so when we start walking back to the pousada we are always walking in the opposite direction to everyone else. Perhaps one night we will manage it.

2007-04-07T18:08:00.000-07:00

4 April, 2007

We had another awesome day on the island getting to Gamboa village again. We strolled to the rock and painted ourselves again, this time professionally and we swam in our favorite spot. We walked further and the beach seemed to go on forever and so we picked a spot and lay down for a while. It was so peaceful and calm and nobody was around. We walked back briskly just making it in time before high tide. We did lunch at our one and only restaurant on 3rd beach and this time we were there almost 3 hrs. It was wonderful having the water breaking on our feet, the sun setting and the breeze to cool down the air. Tonight was the final show at the theatre and we were told that we should go. We didn’t ask too many questions and so we left at about 21h30. The walk to the theatre was quite long and steep and we finally arrived, it was very quiet, paid $6 to enter and we waited. We waited some more and finally at 23h00 the band started to play. Before the show there was a big screen with the history of Brazil but it was all in Portuguese?! I think that we might have sat there listening for 30 minutes- (along with a handful of others) and we just could not stay any longer so we made the long trek back to our Pousada. The music was certainly not Brazilian and whether they had traditional stuff later, we don’t know but it was enough. Apparently it fills up late but we were not waiting to find out! Brazilians only eat dinner at 22h00 and then they go out partying until 4/5 in the morning. We are struggling to get onto this time zone.

2007-04-07T18:00:00.000-07:00

3 April, 2007

Hello to all you fellow workers. It is another glorious day on this magnificent island and we have big decisions to make. Are we going to stay by the pool or head to the beach- and which beach?? You see, it is tough on this island. We decided to do a few stops and so we started on 2nd beach- this is by far the most crowded and ‘happening’ beach. We lay there for a while, soaked up the heat, and walked to 3rd beach. We found a quiet spot in the shade under the palms, and the water breaking at our feet. Our tummies started talking and so just next to where we lay was a restaurant with tables and chairs on the sand. We plonked ourselves down and a really friendly local served us. An awesome meal and three Capirinhas later, (each) we were passed out on 2nd beach dead to the world. When we woke up it was already sunset and so we quickly got to the old fort from where there is a fake sunset over the Atlantic; it was a bit cloudy though. We trekked back up to our place and swam and headed back for dinner. But, we couldn’t really find a restaurant we liked and so we landed up having a crepe with chocolate and banana on the beach. There are many restaurants here but we have not had good food yet, except for the one and only- on 3rd beach which is closed at night. There was no party tonight and so we decided to get to bed early.

2007-04-07T11:13:00.000-07:00

2 April, 2007

Another relaxing day in Morro de Sao Paolo and a great breakfast – every morning it is a little different, with a few surprises. We decided to go to a quiet beach away from all the tourists and we landed up walking to a village called Gamboa. It is a small fishing village with warm water for swimming and it is extremely quiet. We spent a couple of hours there and headed back before the tide came in. If one stays there too long one has to return by boat but we had no money on us and so we had to walk back quickly (a little bit in the water). On our way back we had a pit stop at the pink rock – a special place to paint oneself with mud. I guess it is good for the skin and has special minerals and stuff- we are not sure though!
Anyhow, we painted ourselves with the mud- looked like aliens- and continued with our walk. We rinsed off in the sea at the end of our walk and our skin felt so soft and silky. It was really fun and we will do it again. I think it also exfoliates the skin if you don’t mix it with the water. Rich smothered it on me first before we saw others doing it and then we figured out how to do it properly. We then had another dip in our pool back at the pousada and we went to the lighthouse for sunset. There was an awesome view of the beaches but the sun sets on the other side and so we had the moon to admire instead. We had a local meal for dinner- this however does not agree with Mr Bendel’s stomach and so it will be the last one for a while or forever!

2007-04-02T18:18:00.000-07:00

1 April, 2007

We woke up to the most amazing breakfast. Fresh hot rolls, fried banana and lots of other goodies all served in the thatch with views of the ocean and the sound of the birds. It was a lazy day sitting by the pool and then venturing to the beach for the afternoon sun. A nice long walk on the beach again- this time even further and coming back as the sun was setting a few crabs were strolling along the waters edge- cute. Dinner was quite entertaining because the food was not great and it was a buffet of meats and so the dogs on the beach got fed very well. We had about three or four dogs all around us and I enjoyed it because at least some of us were enjoying dinner. There was live music too and so the atmosphere was really good. Our feet in the sand, perfect warm weather, and chilled or should I say trilled out Brazilians around. We met a Brazilian couple from Sao Paulo (Fernando and Karina) and they helped us plan the remainder of our trip in Brazil. We hope to meet up with them over the next few days and share a few cervejas (or maybe sucos (fruit juices) – since they don’t drink alcohol). It is very safe here and lit up at night, even for our trek up the hill to our pousada. We leave our room keys in the hammock outside our door- we are so free…

2007-04-02T17:48:00.000-07:00

31 March, 07

Oh Salvador is great but it is time to move on. We waited and waited at the bus station and the bus just never arrived and so we had to get a taxi (something we never do) to the ferry terminal. We got there in time for our catamaran and we sat on the deck in the front spread out having a snooze and contemplating life. The sky was a light blue- very clear- and the ocean was a deep blue, we were in the boiling heat with a comfortable breeze as we sailed along, minds racing and wondering what next?! We were on our way to Morro de Sao Paolo and we didn’t know what to expect. Well, we arrived to this magnificent island with no traffic or roads. There are no cars allowed and the only form of traffic is wheelbarrows –which are their taxis. These are used to help people with their luggage. The roads or should I call them paths are pure beach sand and so we walked along to our Pousada that we had read about beforehand. It was on the hilltop and quite a trek in the midday heat. We climbed loads of deep stairs with our bags and we finally reached Posada Colibri. We were greeted by a lovely German lady named Marga and a glass of cold water. It was so peaceful and quiet and we felt like we were in paradise. I think it really is a kind of paradise with no crime or theft. There were some monkeys in the trees and lots of hummingbirds around as we waited in the thatched dining area for our bungalow to be cleaned. There is a gorgeous pool and an area to basque in the sun with views of the ocean. We walked into the town passed very nice shops and restaurants and got to the beaches. There are 4 beaches and one can walk quite far on the 4th beach. We got back to 2nd beach and had a Caiparinha on the beach whilst the sun set and the full moon came out. We had a big climb again back to the pousada but I guess it is good exercise. By the time we reached the top we were ready for an evening dip in the lit-up pool and a few mails on the internet- yes- we have connection here too.

2007-04-02T17:45:00.000-07:00

30 March, 07

Today didn’t start off very well for me. It was time for another hair cut- just a trim. And so the road we were staying in had many hairdressers and I obviously chose the wrong one. It was like living a nightmare and it was either leaving half way – which is probably what I should have done- or sticking it out. I walked out really upset and I didn’t want to pay but we could not communicate in a mutual language and so it was a problem. My hair was all different lengths and everything I had worked towards in the last 3 months (which was the last time I had a haircut) was simply ‘chopped off’. We went for a walk along the promenade passed the main beaches in Salvador which we were not very impressed with, and then we arrived in the city again. We walked through the city streets that were crowded and cramped until we arrived at the Historic town again. There is an elevator shaft called ‘Elevador Lacerda’ that runs from the upper town area (Ciadade Alta) to the lower town (Ciadade Baixa). The ride takes 22 seconds and the shaft is 72 meters in height. We browsed around the Mercado and bought our ferry tickets for tomorrow to an island (called Morro de Sao Paulo) which we heard was really great. The market has an African feel quite similar to home but a little different and more colorful. Our next stop was the Sao Franciscan Church which was very beautiful inside and out and we had a local who shared some information and history with us. We skipped the other 100 churches (not quite) and strolled the cobbled streets admiring the buildings, shops and mansions of the past. We had a cerveja (beer) on the main square (Pelourinho) as the air filled with the night activity. We had the local dish for dinner called Bobo de Frango which is a manioc paste flavored with chicken, coconut milk and who knows what else. It was very tasty and it comes with rice. The streets are filled with musicians and stalls but it is low season and things are pretty quiet. I think we are tired and these cities are quite challenging. We are also nearing the end of the trip and thinking about home and everything that comes with that.

2007-04-02T17:42:00.000-07:00

29 March, 2007

Salvador de Bahia is the darkest city in terms of skin color and the hottest in terms of culture. The descendants of African slaves have tried to preserve their culture and roots more than anywhere else in the New World and this is portrayed in their dance, festivities and martial arts traditions. We woke up at 5 am and we got a taxi to the airport. Check in went smoothly and before we knew it we were landing in Salvador. The flight was 2 hrs duration but we waited for the bus forever. We were not very fussy and it was so hot that we settled for the first pousada. It was a budget little guesthouse in an area called Barra (Baha). The location was very good because it was a few blocks from the beach. We walked around and were not very impressed and so we got a bus into town (15 Minutes) and got to the historic old town. It was so pretty and the buildings were so old. We walked down the cobbled streets and arrived at a brilliant restaurant recommended by our guide book. It was called Uaua and the setting was just perfect, the food even better. We spent the entire afternoon looking at pousadas (mansions converted into guesthouses) that were really overpriced and all in the historic part of the town; and some of them were decorated so beautifully. We walked towards the main part of the town as the sun was setting and the nightlife was beginning. We were just about to catch a bus back to Barra when a street parade passed by, drumming and dancing and the road was blocked for about 30 minutes. The people here continue to be friendly and helpful but they do not speak much English and so our Portuguese is improving every day. Spanish (the few words that we know) has helped us along. Rich is feeling much better and hopefully by tomorrow he will be fine.

2007-04-02T17:39:00.000-07:00

28 March, 07

The alarm clock was set for 7h00 and we were waking up to meet Alex and co for the daytrip to an island. But, Rich was feeling terrible and he was not getting up for anything or anyone. So I managed to phone Alex on a broken line and tried to explain that Rich was ill. We were so upset and disappointed that we couldn’t go. I decided to go back to sleep and we both woke up at 12 midday. Can you believe that?! I wasn’t even sick. We decided to get out for the afternoon and we went to Sugar Loaf (Pao de Acucar). There are two cable cars that take you up and the first one stops at Morro da Urca with an amphitheatre view and the next one continues to the top with 360 degree panoramic views of the city and beyond. We got back to Copacabana and we didn’t go for the walk we had planned because Rich was really not up to it. We had an early night and had to pack because we had booked a flight to Salvador for tomorrow. We really want to stay here longer but it is not possible and we would have to forfeit the flight. We have pretty much seen the city itself but there are many day trips and short trips to do and the one we really wanted to do with our local friends we couldn’t do. We will have to come back to Rio again. The people are friendly, the food is so good and service everywhere is excellent.

2007-03-31T18:19:00.000-07:00

27 March, 2007

A sightseeing day and we were on our way to Corcovado on the bus. Christ the Redeemer (Christo Redentor) gazes over Rio on top of the mountain. Corcovado boasts an amazing view and spectacular panorama of Rio and its surroundings. The best way to reach the top is via a train that chugs up the hill. We were very lucky because Christ can be covered by thick cloud on a daily basis and it was very clear when we were there. We then got back to Copacabana and wanted to relax in the afternoon but that didn’t happen. Instead we were running between tourist agencies trying to book a simple flight to Salvador. Well, we finally booked the flight by 17h30 and that was the end of our afternoon. We did however have an awesome lunch buffet of sushi and steak. The restaurant was incredible and the service was superb. The waiters came by with huge skewers every few minutes to the table with different cuts of beef and accompaniments. We got to the promenade by early evening and we went for a very long brisk walk in the hot evening air. It was very busy and everyone was playing sport on the beach and exercising. There was a wonderful energy around and the weather was just perfect. We had watermelon for dinner after that big lunch and tried to get to bed early again. Rich was not feeling great- oh oh …sore throat brewing.

2007-03-31T18:16:00.000-07:00

26 March, 2007

Today was mostly dedicated to planning our next few weeks in Brazil. We took the bus into town and went to a few places trying to find information. We realized that it is not so easy to get from A to B and that it is expensive too. The buses are a bit more reasonable but they take too long. After walking around the cobbled streets in the city (centro) and passing beautiful colonial buildings, we had a local, quick bite to eat at the fruit juice bar and got to the Bonde. This is the last of the Historic streetcars that once crisscrossed the city. The tram travels up the hill to Santa Teresa passed cobbled streets and aging mansions. Santa Teresa was the uppermost residential neighborhood in the 19th century, when Rio’s upper class lived here and rode the Bonde to the Centro for work. Now this area is inhabited by many artists and bohemians and there are cute shops and restaurants all the way up. We met Alex, his wife and a friend on the tram and we got off with them. We all started walking to a viewpoint, passing monkeys along the way and it was really far. We decided to take the bus and then we had to walk some more. It was all uphill and very exhausting and we walked through part of the Tijuca Forest. We finally reached Mirante Dona Marta (the view point) and it was well worth it. It was beautiful- the city is really pretty. We had to trek back down the hill and we then caught a bus back to an area called Lapa. – a suburb for a vibrant bohemian scene- and at night boasts one of Rio’s most vibrant street parties. We all went to a pub/restaurant and had a drink and some snacks. Alex likes to practice his English since he is studying languages and so he was very friendly. We made plans to meet Alex, his wife and friend on Wednesday (28 March) and head off to an island not far from Rio – we were really looking forward to spending a day with a local.
The days are too hot and very long and so we headed back to Copacabana for showers and bed.

2007-03-31T18:14:00.000-07:00

25 March, 2007

We woke up very late- about 11am and struggled to get going. We must have walked about 20 km altogether and we landed up walking the entire day. We thought perhaps we should get orientated with the different areas and suburbs. We started in Copacabana and passed Aropador and continued to Ipanema (passed the famous “Girl from Ipanaema”). The promenade goes on forever all the way along the beach- it is really pretty. It was a Sunday, so everywhere was very busy and there were so many people out and about. We reached Leblon and went into the suburb, through the shops and restaurants. We then reached the lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo De Freitas) and walked around the entire path for almost 7 km. It was very pretty and we passed plastic swan boats, more restaurants and kiosks. We walked and walked and it almost felt like we were doing a “Forest Gump’. Our feet were really sore- we didn’t even have trainers on- silly. We found a superb restaurant in Ipaneama that Renzo had recommended (thanks Renzo) and we had delicious steak fillet pieces that we cooked ourselves at the table, and to perfection. So far, we are very impressed with the city. It is reasonably clean, there are lovely beaches, lakes, mountains (forest) and a good transport system. We thought that it would be a lot more dangerous and unsafe- but so far we have not felt scared. The Brazilian people are really lovely and warm and they are helpful even though their English is not very good. We are really enjoying Rio and its people.

2007-03-31T18:04:00.000-07:00

24 March, 2007

The world’s fifth - largest country, music, dancing, jungle and partying all await us in this colorful, vibrant part of the world. We arrived in Rio de Janeiro early in the morning after a 9 and a half hour flight. We were quite tired to say the least and all we could think about was finding a hotel and getting some sleep. Well, the day didn’t really work out like that. We took forever finding accommodation. We caught the bus into Copacabana from the airport and then we started hunting. Everywhere here is so expensive considering what you get and we eventually landed up in a hostel. The actual hostel was really fun and funky, but it wasn’t for us. There were mainly dormitories but the double room they had was tiny; like a cell. No windows, just four walls and a bed with no room for our bags. This was not an option and there were only shared bathrooms (for about 200 people). This place reminded me of the catteries that we visited before we left CT, just with humans instead of cats, lying all over the show in their bunks-quite funny actually. Anyway, after all of that and now that you can hopefully picture the whole thing, I waited at the hostel whilst Rich went hunting for a place to stay. By now it was nearly lunch time and it must have been about 30 degrees outside. We were dripping with sweat (and we had our smart clothes on in case we got to fly business class) and we just wanted to get rid of the bags! Rich eventually came back; I had already met half the hostel, and we moved to an apartment that he had found which was affiliated to a hotel. We finally got settled and got to the famous Copacabana beach. No, there were no topless chicks with g-strings. Don’t know where they are?! We walked a bit and then fell asleep on the beach. We took a walk along the promenade and had to taste ‘The’ famous Caipirinha (drink made from sugarcane spirit and crushed citrus). There were many people walking and running and cycling, lots of dogs too, all well- groomed. The beach was now very busy with football and volleyball games. It seems like everyone tries to keep fit and lead a healthy life. We were very impressed and decided that we would join them!

2007-03-25T17:14:00.000-07:00

23 March, 2007

We woke up really exhausted, all the stress and rushing around, going to and from the airport I guess. Rich went to the gym with Renzo and I went to Yoga with Julia- it was wonderful. Before we knew it, everyone was on the computer again – quite sickening- total obsession. All three computers in the house were busy. I helped Julia pack a picnic for the park and the weather was just glorious (about 27 degrees). We took a blanket and went off to the park across the way, lay chilling and chatting and… baking in the sun. We went for our final cerveca together before leaving for the airport again. We were going to try and make the same flight tonight to Rio de Janeiro. Back to the MARTA and we said our brief goodbyes to J&R presuming we will see them later again, same time same place. We made sure that our luggage was also on standby (since it was still at the airport-we hoped) and then proceeded to the gate. We went through the ‘pleasant’ US security again. By now we’re pros at taking our shoes off, computer out the bag, zip lock stuff (toiletries) in place and a smile! Ha Ha. Well, we got on the flight and we were finally on our way to Brazil. I think Julia was a bit upset, sorry about that, but hey, next time we are on buddy passes I am sure we will make up for lost time. We are glad that we got on the flight because we are sick of going backwards and forwards to the airport and wasting away those good beer-drinking hours at sunset. And, we didn’t have our luggage so three days in the same clothes is pushing it- even for us backpackers!

2007-03-25T17:12:00.000-07:00

22 March, 2007

We woke up ready for a big breakfast at ‘The Waffle House’. All we seem to be doing is eating and drinking. Rich met Larry who was such a great waiter and they immediately connected if you know what I mean. An instant love affair and we got a 10% discount (which is like 16.6% earned) and free grits for us South Africans to taste. Another healthy meal for us – not. We then went shopping at Lenox mall. It was fun to catch up on all the items we needed and a few Victoria Secret garments thrown in. Meantime, whilst Julia and I were in the store, Rich found the Delta office and changed our flight from Caracas, Venezuela to Rio, Brazil. So, now we are going directly to Brazil and we don’t have to go through Venezuela. The flight to Rio is not looking very good but we are going to the airport anyway, we will try and get on. Oh, we could have been going on Business Class to Caracas, Venezuela, just by the way. We had a slow relaxing lunch and another beer at a lovely pub, sitting outside in the Spring air. Atlanta is a very pretty city – lots of trees and parks and greenery. Before we knew it, we were showering and leaving for the airport on the MARTA. We checked in and our bags went through, but we didn’t get on the flight – there was only 1 seat left so we both decided to stay in Atlanta and try again tomorrow. So, we were back on the MARTA and Renzo and Julia picked us up once again and we went for a drink and late night bite. We had a laugh about the whole thing and it was actually becoming quite funny this whole scene. We couldn’t get our luggage and so it wasn’t ideal. However, we were happy to be with Renzo and Julia another night.

2007-03-25T17:05:00.000-07:00

21 March, 2007

The loads were all looking good and so we were leaving for the airport. We are on buddy passes and so we have to wait on standby. The shuttle came to fetch us, although Rich was contemplating to catch the bus – even though everyone told him not to. I insisted on doing the shuttle and so it cost a bit more. Unfortunately we didn’t get on business class but we got on so yey. We were the very last two to walk onto the plane and we had three seats each. It was only a four hour flight to Atlanta but we were starving and we only got snacks. We were almost sure that they would serve lunch- hell no! We arrived in Atlanta and went for dinner with Julia and Renzo to a stunning Tapas bar and Macy managed to join us again. We were back on the futon in the ‘Daniel Palace’ in Atlanta. Tomorrow we can enjoy the day because our flight to Caracas only leaves late afternoon.

2007-03-25T17:03:00.000-07:00

20 March, 2007

We all checked out of the apartment and went for our last breakfast at the Best Western. Julia and Renzo were leaving to go back home and we were meant to go with them but we are not going because the loads on their flight are not looking good and we do not want to drive an hour and a half to the airport just to turn around and try again tomorrow. We have decided to move back to the famous Villas Macondo for one night. When we checked out- there was another fight with management and we were very angry. They were trying to charge us for the lock which they broke- can you believe it?! How ridiculous. We sorted it out and moved to our lovely place with the patio. That is where we spent the morning, swimming and reading and Rich on the computer, of course. The beach was so different, it was practically high tide the entire afternoon and there was no sand. All the surfers were in the ocean- crazy stuff. The water was gushing creating gaps in the beach that were not passable, but we still enjoyed our last sunset and had some fish for dinner. This has definitely been our longest stay in any one place, it really has felt like a holiday and it has been very relaxing.

2007-03-25T16:56:00.000-07:00

19 March, 07

If it wasn’t for all the construction around I think it would be a really nice town. It is absolutely booming and unfortunately the roads haven’t been developed in conjunction with the buildings and so there is dust and sand all over. And Noise! After breakfast we decided to go to Playa Grande- a really long pretty beach- I think- because we didn’t quite get there. We first all walked to the boats that take you across. The guy there said we could walk across a little further down since it was low tide. Julia and I tried and we sank in the sand. So, Rich decided to test it out as the guinea pig and walk across to see if it was possible with all our bags. Well, it was funny to watch him as he waded in the water, and he made it across but we all decided it was touch and go and so we stayed on our beach. After lunch we had to waddle up that horrific hill again and straight into the pool. By now we had all found our spots to relax in for the afternoon: Renzo on the couch right by the air conditioning, Rich baking in the sun outside, Julia in her room reading, and me on the bed chilling in the breeze with the door open. We went for some Nachos tonight- supposedly ‘as big as your ass’ and so Rich and Renzo wanted to measure which ass- ha ha! We had such a healthy dinner; nachos, fries with melted cheese and a pizza to end it all off. How disgusting is that! No, it was delicious. At least we had the trek up the hill- nobody can say that we are not doing our exercise, hey!?

2007-03-25T16:50:00.000-07:00

18 March, 2007

Breakfast is included in our package and so we went to the Best Western for a continental disaster. No, it wasn’t so bad but nothing to write home about. We took Renzo and Julia to Langosta beach for the morning although by the time we walked there it was almost afternoon. At first the tide was low and it was very hot and windy. Later the tide came up and we all had a good few swims. We were all fighting for some shade under the tree and we burned our feet on the sand a few times –it was just so warm. We got really lazy and so we caught a taxi from the beach all the way back to Tamarindo and UP THE HILL! Whoo- at least for that. We chilled at the apartment for the afternoon, eating reading and sleeping. A few swims in the pool to try and cool down and back to the beach for that unforgettable sunset again. Just in the nick of time, with our cervecas (for those of you who still don’t know- beer). Dinner was good but Rich managed to have a bit of a fight with management over prices –again. We walked up back to the apartment and called it a night. Not the most adventurous at night- are we?!

2007-03-25T16:43:00.000-07:00

17 March, 07

We were sad to be leaving Villas Macondo. It was a really comfortable place, we had our little patio and free wireless internet and we were very settled. But, Julia and Renzo are arriving later and so we are moving to a fancy apartment; how wrong can you go with that?! We trekked across the town in the heat with our bags to the Best Western where we fetched the keys. They could not give us a lift to the condo and so we had to walk up quite a steep hill and it wasn’t hot, it was boiling. Our bags felt so heavy and I felt every muscle in my legs. We got to the apartments and they omitted to give us the code to enter the security gate. Luckily we found the maintenance fellow and he let us in. We happened to find a washing machine and this was such good news. It is amazing what makes one excited on a trip like this. Anyway, we did four loads of washing (with loads of detergent) - even our clean clothes we re-washed and we also did our filthy day bags. The place did not have a cupboard with hanging space and so we called the hotel and they sent some fellow to open the cupboard that was locked. He just broke the lock –just like that- and it was crazy, but we got some hanging space. We had a sandwich and a swim in the lovely complex pool and waited for the Daniel’s to arrive. They arrived all hot and sweaty and we all walked down to the beach. Julia and I had a swim for about half an hour- the waves were great and the water was so warm. We watched the sun setting and walked back up the hill for a glass of wine on the patio. We were very relaxed and it was really comfortable in the apartment. We had delicious fish for dinner and we trekked back up that blessed hill for the fourth time today- and last.

2007-03-17T07:40:00.000-07:00

16 March, 07

It is our anniversary today and so – no fighting! (smile). We had breakfast on the patio, some toast and avocado (and Nutella for Rich), and OJ and we decided to go for a walk along the beach. We walked passed some rocks and reached another beach called Langosta Beach. It was quite rocky and there was absolutely nobody around. We then found a path that lead is off the beach to a little suburb with expensive condos and villas for rent. We popped into one of the villas to find out the price; almost had heart failure, and then we just walked admiring the gorgeous houses. We reached the only all inclusive hotel and it was very beautiful. Unfortunately they only had one room left for the weekend and so it was not possible because Renzo and Julia are joining us tomorrow. It is boiling hot here and we are sweating. We headed to the beach again and we found the most amazing little estuary where apparently the turtles breed. Unfortunately the conservationists were here a few days ago tagging the babies and now they have all left. We sat by the river which flows from the sea and it was very protected. The water was like a lake except there was quite a strong current. It was gorgeous and there were so many birds around. We spent a couple of hours here, knowing we would be back in the next day or two, and we walked back to Tamarindo along the beach. On the way we passed a washed –up dead baby turtle, he obviously didn’t make it along with the rest of them- poor thing. Then we passed a dead water snake- exactly the same snake that I had seen yesterday in the ocean. It was black with a yellow stripe! We had a swim halfway back and then we got back to our hotel, it was sweltering hot, and we had a swim in the pool to try and cool off which was not really possible. We had lunch on the patio- one of the best lunches ever- for me anyway. I had a huge avocado and tuna sandwich on dark bread and a mango for dessert. We relaxed by the pool for the afternoon and walked to the beach for the most beautiful sunset over the Pacific. We fetched our bottle of wine that we had put in the freezer and went to a restaurant (more like a shack) for fresh seafood. It was relatively inexpensive and we had a pretty decent meal. We walked back to the hotel exhausted and it was only 20h00. We sat on the patio, had a few swims and did some blog and therefore you can now all read the latest news!!! It was a great anniversary! I love you Baby!

2007-03-17T07:03:00.000-07:00

15 March, 2007

I finally got my legs waxed. Oh, what a relief! After that was out the way we decided to go to another beach called Flamingo Beach. We waited for the bus that was 45 minutes late and we got to the bay. We walked along the bay thinking it was the beach when we realized there was not one other person around. We found the beach, it was very quiet and secluded and we relaxed under a palm tree chilling out- again. Rich read whilst I went for my walk up and down sussing out the area. There were many vultures in the sky and I passed a dead bird that looked like an Eagle? Poor thing! It was massive and its claws were the size of my hand. I then went for a swim in the rough ocean and whilst standing quite near to the shore, I saw a water snake pass by. Oh my, I got such a fright since these are apparently very dangerous and the most deadly in the whole of Costa Rica. It was black with a yellow stripe- exactly the description we were told a few days ago. They are also very rare so I was quite excited about it all but then I was too scared to go back into the ocean. We headed back to the bus stop at about 16h15 because we were told that there would be a bus at 16h30 or 17h00. Well, we waited and waited and there was no bus. People were now telling us that the bus would arrive at 19h00 and so we found a bar/restaurant where we could sit and have a drink and still watch for the bus. We had a drink or two and then the place started to liven up. There was actually a party going on with live music and they had a really nice feature too- a beer barrel on tap for the guests. Since the bus wasn’t arriving, we decided to fill up with some beer from the party (which was only for guests obviously) and before we knew it we had quite a few drinks. I guess we made the most of the evening waiting for the bus but by 20h00 we decided that it was enough and we actually had to catch a taxi back to Tamarindo. Four hours and no bus!!! We got back, had a swim in the pool and collapsed into bed.

2007-03-17T06:47:00.000-07:00

14 March, 2007

We had an early start, a good breakfast again and no shower (still no water at our hostel). The driver came to pick us up for our trip to the coast. We were off to the Pacific Ocean and the beaches of Costa Rica. There was one other couple in the car and we had to drive on the terrible dirt roads for about 2 hours. These are probably the worst roads that we have had to encounter anywhere in the world. The drive was very bumpy but scenic and mountainous. We drove to the province of Nicoya and across the Puntas Las Amistad (over the gulf of Nicoya). The driver drove really slowly unlike the other drivers here and it was quite frustrating. We finally got to Tamarindo four hours later and checked into the Lonely Planets author’s choice ‘Villas Macondo’. A very good, comfortable midrange accommodation. It has really clean and spacious rooms with a pool, shared kitchen and patio with hammocks. The only problem with this town is that there is a lot of construction going on and it is very dusty and sandy everywhere. The weather is about 40 degrees in the shade so it is boiling hot during the day and night. We went to the beach for the afternoon, a really long strip of sand and the ocean was really warm too. We went for a walk at sunset and bought some beers at the supermarket. We sat on our luxurious patio chatting on the phone and catching up with the blog whilst rocking in the hammock. Rich had quite a nice birthday and we went for a special dinner to a fancy restaurant. The food was good and we were exhausted after a full day.

2007-03-16T21:38:00.000-07:00

13 March, 07

We had a great breakfast which was cooked up by the two brothers at our hostel. They really try so hard. We went off to do the canopy tour but first we walked along the suspension bridges. The walk was very pretty but we didn’t see too much. A few birds and many bridges high up above the rainforest, almost in the clouds. We then did the famous canopy tour and it was superb. Even Rich enjoyed it and it was very professional. The distances were quite big between the trees and it really was fun. We got back to the hostel, did a bit of internet and decided to do the night walk. This tour was also pricey but we were planning on leaving tomorrow and so it would be our last walk in the forest. Rich wants to get to the beaches (and get his tan back – 5 days of no beach isn’t good for him)!!! We saw a few tarantulas, a few night bugs and insects, loads of fireflies and another viper snake. The walk was fun and the night sounds were great. It was a different experience and we really enjoyed it. Unfortunately, the pipes outside our hotel were hit whilst construction was going on with the roads and there was still no water since the morning. We couldn’t shower and so we went for dinner to the same restaurant as the previous night. An excellent meal again and off to bed nice and stinky.

2007-03-16T21:35:00.000-07:00

12 March, 2007

We decided to leave the little town of La Fortuna since the weather was still very cloudy and there was little chance of seeing this volcano oozing with red-hot lava. We had a delicious strawberry smoothie with some of the left-over strawberries we had purchased on the road the other day and off we went to Monteverde (the mountains). The whole trip is described as a ‘jeep boat jeep’ transfer and this is the mode of transport. We started in a minivan which was fairly comfortable and then we moved on to a ferry boat and we crossed a river to make the journey a bit shorter and then we did a bit of a hike with our luggage and got into another minivan. We drove on really bad roads, dusty and sandy and bumpy for about 2 hours until we reached Santa Elena. We were recommended a place called Sleepers by a fellow traveler and so we got the driver to drop us off there. When we first arrived we were a bit shocked because it looked like nothing from the outside. However, it was clean and we even had a bay window with a view across the valley. The place is run by two brothers and they really work hard and just try to make a living. We checked in and went for lunch to the local ‘soda’ where we met a couple who were just starting out on their around the world trip. We were very jealous and we had a long chat with them. We got back just in time and it started to pour with rain. We did our laundry and relaxed at the hotel for the rest of the afternoon. Rich was really exhausted and we needed time out. I think that the torrential downpour was a way of the G-d’s above telling us we need a break and we need to chill out and stay put! We missed the evening hike that we were planning on doing and instead, once the rain subsided, we went for a delicious fish dinner with some friends from the UK. I had sea bass with an avo sauce- spectacular. We got to bed early since the whole town was asleep by the time we left the restaurant. I think that people generally wake up early and go to bed early so that they can make the most of the daylight hours. We are not early birds and so we have to try and have some early nights.

2007-03-16T19:56:00.000-07:00

11 March, 2007

We woke up to a cloudy day which is not what we wanted. We did some internet and chilled around the ‘inn’, met some travelers and ate some breakfast in the communal kitchen. It started to rain on and off and we were a bit disappointed but we decided to do the tour to the volcano anyway. We got them to drop us off at lunch time at the thermal hot springs that we would revisit later after the walk. We wanted some extra time relaxing and rejuvenating from our stressful vacation (ha ha) and it was raining so there was not much else to do. The hot springs were really nice and relaxing and there were many pools to choose from. All the water is natural from the mountain and there are no chemicals or toxins added. The tour picked us up and off we went on a hike to try and get a sighting of the volcano that apparently oozes red lava if the shy volcano unveils itself from the thick cloud cover. It started to pour and we were walking in the rain. It was a nice walk and we saw a viper snake, an owl as well as two tucans, but we were drenched and soaking wet. We did not get to see the volcano and the clouds were even thicker and denser than ever. The guide really made the tour and he was an incredible man. He reminded me of the ‘wise monkey’ from The Lion King’. He was a spiritual man and spoke from his heart. We then got dropped off at the hot springs again with all the other millions of tourists and it was like a zoo. The rain did not let up and we got back to the Inn wet and tired.

2007-03-16T19:52:00.000-07:00

10 March, 07

The morning started off really strangely. We were going to head off to Monteverde tomorrow and wanted to visit Volcan Poas today and sleep in Alajuela one more night. We walked to the bus stop and we were early (that makes a change), and so we went to the other bus stop to find out the times for the bus to Monteverde for tomorrow. Whilst standing there, a Belgium taxi driver asked us where we were going and to cut a long story short, he took us to fetch our luggage, we said goodbye to Eduardo and off we went with him for the day. The whole days’ plans had changed. We first drove to a coffee plantation and coffee house, had a taste and took some pics. The views were magnificent and everything was so green and lush. We then got to Volcan Poas (our initial days plans), an active volcano which had its last blowout in 1953. There are also two other craters, one of which contains a lake, but unfortunately we didn’t see anything. In fact we don’t believe that a volcano exists??? We did a lovely hike and saw a gorgeous squirrel and a few hummingbirds but it was very cloudy and misty and windy. We moved on to a place called La Paz waterfall gardens which we couldn’t reach by bus and so we were so happy we had a driver for the day. We meandered along the well-marked trails passed a butterfly conservatory (the largest in the world), a hummingbird garden, an orchid display, a froggy house and passed some snakes too. The trail leads down to five cascading waterfalls and a lush tropical jungle. It was probably one of the most beautiful places we have been to in the world and I guess the hefty entrance fee of $29 is worth it after all. The gardens were unbelievable and there were flowers in every color, shape and form. There is also a lodge that is a little too pricey for us but seemed really special and if the bathrooms are anything to go by it is probably worth a splurge!!! We finally left these gardens and made our way to La Fortuna where we would spend the next couple of days. Our driver was really a good guy and he always gave us the keys to the car when we got someplace since all our luggage was in his car and he obviously didn’t want us to think that he would disappear with all our stuff. He was in fact more like a guide than a driver and I practiced my French with him. He dropped us at a place called ‘La Choza Inn’ and it was very clean and comfortable. We almost felt like we were on a ranch and yet we were only one road away from the main road. Not that the town is so big or busy. We went for dinner to a local spot- known as a ‘soda’ (an inexpensive local eatery). We had an absolutely delicious shrimp pizza and a cerveza!

2007-03-16T19:50:00.000-07:00

9 March, 07

We woke up in Quepos and made our way to the bus terminal for an early 6am bus back to San Jose. The journey was really pretty and the countryside is so green and lush- what a gorgeous country! We decided to stay in a town called Alajuela (outside San Jose). We found a little hotel called ‘Hotel Cortez Azul’ and a friendly chap called Eduardo checked us in. We dumped our luggage and got a bus to San Jose. From there we had to swap terminals to get another bus to Gaupilles. The bus driver forgot to let us out at a certain stop and so we had to wait for a bus coming in the opposite direction to drop us off where we wanted to go. What a schlep! We finally got to the Braulio Carrillo National Park and we bought our tickets for the aerial tram ride through the rainforest. Hymie was our guide and he was very good. We saw an amazing strawberry- poison frog with blue legs- very fascinating and really tiny but very dangerous and we also spotted an anteater. The frog apparently secretes a fluid that can be very fatal to mammals and humans. We didn’t try to pick it up- obviously! The views from the tram were beautiful and we were literally above the trees with views of Volcan Arenal. It was so lush and green and fresh and then we did a walk through the forest but we didn’t see too much. We got back to San Jose on the bus and stopped for a coffee and a bureka before getting back to Alajuela (another bus). Eduardo sent us to an amazing restaurant and we had excellent fish. I spent some time chatting to a few travelers on the patio before getting to bed, finding out where we should go and where not to go! Rich was fast asleep and got mad with me when I told him there was a change of plan and he must reset the alarm clock. I didn’t want to wake up at 5h30am!

2007-03-16T19:47:00.000-07:00

8 March, 07

We were going to leave Quepos but decided to stay an extra day since it was so beautiful and we couldn’t decide where in Costa Rica to go next (what a tough decision??). We spoke to a tour agent in the morning and decided against the town of Jaco, which was our original plan. We were on our way to the free beach (local beach outside the park) in the morning, but once we got there we couldn’t resist but go back in the park for another dose of beautiful, pristine beach. We chilled out until the park closed and then we went for sunset drinks on the main strip in Manuel Antonio. We got back to our hotel and Rich tried to do some admin. We were pretty tired and so we got another early night.

2007-03-16T19:42:00.000-07:00

7 March, 07

We were on our way to visit the Manuel Antonio National Park. We got the bus at the terminal and it wound its way up the winding road through the forested slopes lined with shops and restaurants and hotels. About 7 km later we reached the palm –lined beach and we walked across to the entrance of the park. The path ran parallel to the ocean and we walked in the forest first. We spotted an anteater- looking animal, a dassie, a woodpecker and loads of monkeys. There were plenty of iguanas roaming around too and there was an especially large one right on the beach. We spent the afternoon on the most magnificent beach lined with palms and clear calm, warm water. It was so hot, the temperature must have been at least 40 degrees in the shade and the ocean was also so warm- almost too warm to swim. We got the bus back towards Quepos half way up the pass and jumped off to have a few drinks at the many bars and restaurants lining the road. We eventually got back to our hotel, had a shower and got to the sushi restaurant just in time for the ‘all you can eat’ special.

2007-03-15T22:19:00.000-07:00

6 March, 2007

We took it easy and decided to leave San Jose- enough of the big city. We found a good, cheap spot for breakfast and did some internet and phone calls. We got a taxi to the bus terminal and had to wait about one and a half hours for the bus to Quepos- a town known for its tourism, commercial fishing and oil plantations. We had an absolutely horrendous bus journey, it lasted about three and a half to four hours, and it was sweltering hot, we were squashed in the bus, uncomfortable and I was full of cold. The temperature must have been about 40 degrees celcius and there was no air conditioning on the bus! Well, we had a bit of a fight on the bus: Rich wanted to put his seat back since it was so jam packed and there is nothing wrong with that. The lady behind had a baby on her lap and was not happy. She eventually moved but her friend kept digging her knees into my seat and that was not comfortable at all. Then out of nowhere this lady klaps Rich on the head and you can just imagine!!! There was a bit of excitement on the bus and the Ticos were ready to get into a fight… There was tension on the bus and so the journey was not pleasant. We finally got to Quepos, a little dirty town and we checked into the Best Western (which is supposedly the best hotel in town). We tried having cold showers but the sweat kept pouring and the temperature stayed pretty much the same in the evening. We walked around and had a happy hour cocktail and met some German fellows. We had a great dinner and got to bed pretty early - again!

2007-03-15T22:16:00.000-07:00

5 March, 2007

We had a shitty breakfast across the road at the hostel. Our hotel wasn’t too bad but there was no restaurant and we had to share a bathroom, but the room was clean. We spent the day walking through the city and exploring the danger zone. Well, we started in Barrio Amon with its concentration of mansions and colonial flare and then we made our way to Avenida Central, walked passed all the museums, the Mercado and finally got to La Sabana which is a very large park away from the city noise, chaos and pollution. We stopped at a pub for a drink- a real tourist pub- and we didn’t want to be on foot in the dark. So, we stopped at the supermarket (which happened to be a Walmart) and had a roast chicken with rice and fried banana for dinner- how sad is that!. We were back at our hotel safely, no gunpoint or attacks and ready for an early night.

2007-03-15T22:02:00.000-07:00

4 March, 2007

We had an early wake up call and off we went to the airport with Julia and Renzo. We checked in and said goodbye as if we were leaving but both parties pretty much knew that we wouldn’t make the flight! We not only went through the usual security procedures but ‘special’ security. That was so irritating and why us??? Anyway, we got through and waited at the gate until everyone boarded so we finally accepted the fact that we will not get on. We phoned Renzo and Julia and they came back to the airport to pick us up. I don’t think that they were far from the airport because they almost knew they would have to pick us up. We all went back home and did some admin and computer ‘stuff’. We then went for a walk in the park across the road and it wasn’t warm at all. The wind was blowing and my ears were aching. But the park was lovely and we saw lots of dogs running around and training so that was nice. It wasn’t a very long or strenuous walk but a bit of exercise and fresh air. We then all had an afternoon nap and Renzo took us to the airport; he was flying too; and so we tried to get on the flight again. We were lucky and we got on the flight no problem, what a relief. We had to go through the security check again- can you believe it- the special one! The flight was good, we were so tired but we couldn’t sleep and the food was shocking. We arrived in Costa Rica and the taxi drivers started lying to us. We passed through them and made our way to the bus station. Even though everyone was telling us there were no buses! We waited and low and behold our bus arrived and we got to San Jose. On the bus we met a friendly Tico who helped us with some plans and we also met some dodgy American on drugs claiming that his money and bags were stolen and trying to sell underwear- really weird. We got off the bus at some dodgy terminal and then got in a cab to our hotel. Everyone made us petrified and made us believe it was worse than Jhb- if that is possible?! We felt scared but we got to the hotel, checked in and had a good nights sleep.

2007-03-15T21:57:00.000-07:00

3 March, 07

We finally arrived in Caracas at 5h30am and had to get a taxi to the airport. We went to check in and the Delta attendant advised us to change if we want to go on business because we were not looking smart enough. We changed into our one and only smart outfits, waited a while and were then called up for business class. The food was shocking but the flight went well. Luckily Julia and Renzo are in Atlanta and we could stay with them until we get away on the next flight to Costa Rica. Julia picked us up and we all went for a beer. Dinner was Mexican and Margaritas all around. Renzo and Julia’s friend Macy joined us and it was a great evening.

2007-03-04T13:53:00.000-08:00

2 March, 07

We tried to book a flight this morning but none of the times worked out and we would not be able to make our connection to Atlanta. Oh, we have decided to go to Costa Rica via Atlanta (very direct route – not) and do a side trip before getting to our final country, Brazil. We actually decided then and there at the agency that we would leave today and we had to go the very long route back to Caracas, something I was dreading. We sat at the pool most of the day and enjoyed the last bit of Isla Margarita. They were really nice at the hotel and allowed us to check out late. We were now excited about leaving and felt that we had had enough of Venezuela and the island. We went to the desk to confirm our ferry times, since they change all the time in Venezuela and we should never have done that. We knew the ferry was at 21h00 and we let them convince us that it was at 18h00. We had to quickly pack and leave and we flew out the hotel because that was a big surprise to us. We got a taxi to the main ferry terminal and low and behold we had to wait two and a half hours. The ferry was only at 21h00 like we thought. We were so mad!!!! Anyway, we did the fast ferry to Puerta la Cruz and from there we got a taxi to the bus terminal in Puerta La Cruz. Then we got on a bus at 12h30 in the morning and it was a 5 hr overnighter to Caracas.

2007-03-04T13:51:00.000-08:00

1 March, 2007

We had to do a bit of admin in the morning and then we sat at the pool for the rest of the morning. We met two Canadians named Carm and Diana and after the amazing lunch- not- we went down to the beach club. We all went for a long walk along the beach and then we tried to organize flights and arrangements to leave the island swiftly and with no hassle. Unfortunately it was too late in the day and so we had to return the next day. After dinner there were Venezuelan dancers and we chatted with our friends (and drank a few more cocktails) until bed time which was early since all the fresh air makes one so tired.

2007-03-04T11:58:00.000-08:00

28 February, 2007

Today we were off on a jeep safari tour. We were going to give it a miss but a few people said it was worth doing and so we got picked up at 9am. It was a long horrible day to say the least and we felt it was a waste of time. Even though we hadn’t been to these parts of the island, and this tour covered the whole island from East to West, we didn’t enjoy it at all. I think that a big part of it was our group on our jeep. We were with an Italian fellow who couldn’t speak a word of English, a family of 5 from Chile with irritating spoilt kids and the guide who didn’t even introduce his name but spoke decent English. There was just a bad Karma on the jeep and that is the best way to describe it. Obviously the day felt longer than it was but we only got back to the hotel at 18h30. The highlight of the trip was definitely the boat trip through the mangroves in La Restinga National Park. The lunch was very good and the off-road part was very short. We did get to lie on a lovely beach for 2 hours and we stopped to see sunset at the end of the day. Drinks were free all day but it would have really been fun with some people you know! We got back exhausted, had a shower and passed out.

2007-03-04T11:57:00.000-08:00

27 February, 2007

The hotel has a private beach club for the guests with free drinks and snacks too. We decided to spend the day on the beach and Rich lay reading the whole day, getting up only for lunch. I went for a long walk and had a few swims, but the sea was quite rough.
We met two chaps from Toronto and got chatting to them. The town has a few internet cafes and travel agencies and so we found out some information. There was a beach barbecue this evening and so we sat with our two Canadian friends and a couple from Sweden. The food is nothing to write home about but it is edible. Back at the hotel was dancing and they try to get all the guests involved. We had a good evening and the drinks were flowing.

2007-03-04T11:56:00.000-08:00

26 February, 2007

We were leaving Juan Griego and it was time to move on to Playa El Agua – the tourist haven. We got to the terminal and as usual the taxis tried to rip us off but we knew better and went with the unofficial taxi. We got into a 1950’s ‘Jalopy’ (a term we use for a beat-up car), and off we went. A few kilometers down the road there was a road block and the driver quickly took off the sticker on the window saying ‘taxi’. We all had a laugh at that one! The drive was only 20 minutes and it was very pretty – along the coast and through the mountains. When we arrived it all looked so civilized and clean and we sat in a coffee bar trying to plan the next step. Rich went looking for a hotel this time, since I don’t negotiate well, and I sat for over an hour. It was well worth it because he found a reasonably priced all inclusive resort. It was good value for money and very clean and comfortable. The place is flooded with Europeans and Canadians trying to get away from their winter. We could only check in at 15h00 and so we ate some lunch, had some wine and sat by the lovely pool the entire afternoon drinking cocktails. There was a fun vibe at the hotel and we were very comfortable. It looks like we will be here for a few days.

2007-03-04T11:53:00.000-08:00

25 February, 2007

We walked along the colonial style houses, very run down and dilapidated as we made our way to another beach called Playa Caribe. This was the swimming beach and it was far cleaner. There were no waves at all and we spent most of the day lying in the sun brushing up on our tans. Rich is starting to blend in with the South Americans, in fact he is getting darker than most of them. The afternoon heat was too intense and so we got back to the hotel hammocks, lay in the cool breeze and relaxed some more! One could actually become an icicle in a hammock with a beer in one hand and a book in another.
We went to the beach for sunset and it was really pretty and quiet since it was Sunday and the town was dead, everything was closed. We went to the same restaurant for dinner, had a lovely fish grill to share and walked back to our ‘smart’ hotel in the warm evening breeze. It was still early so we decided to watch a DVD but as we were midway there was sudden music really loud coming from downstairs. It was an accordion and guitar player together with a singer and there was some kind of celebration in the courtyard. The music was festive and it was different but that was the end of watching the DVD. It was a really morbid, depressing movie anyway, called World Trade Centre and everyone was suffering and dying. What a contradiction it was here; everyone celebrating and enjoying life.
Juan Griego is a small town but actually is the second biggest city on Isla Margarita. It is a fisherman’s town and it isn’t very popular amongst the tourists. Everything closes early and on a Sunday the only shops that are open are the bottle stores and the Venezuelans start drinking their cerveza early in the morning. A town with character!

2007-03-04T10:58:00.000-08:00

24 February, 2007

It was another glorious day and we sat at the beautiful pool in the morning. We had woken up fairly early since they omitted to tell us that there would be building starting at 8am that would wake us up. We left at lunch time for the most Northern part of the island famous for its sunsets, namely Juan Griego - a little town on Isla Margarita. We arrived and had some lunch on the beach and it was boiling hot. I went looking for a hotel and found a French-owned posada-looking hotel. It was really neat and clean with a pool and just perfect. We had a swim to cool down and headed back to the beach but the water was not very clean since there were many fishing boats and it wasn’t really a swimming beach. We got back to the hotel and chilled in the hammocks in the breeze until it was time for sunset. We watched the ball of fire setting into the sea with the mountains in the distance and it was really pretty. The town had a lovely vibe and the temperature was perfect. There is a tiny promenade but the shops line the beach road and there is a pier to sit on whilst having a drink or two. The restaurants come to life and obviously the seafood is the order of the night.

2007-03-04T10:50:00.000-08:00

23 February, 2007

We woke up and the floor was flooded, the tiles were wet and Rich almost sprained his other ankle. Then breakfast was terrible and nobody could speak English. The morning didn’t start off very well. To cut a long story short they insisted we stay in the same room and they would clean it up and solve the problem. The air con had to be on and then it had to be off?? We were not quite sure, but then they were blaming the builders on the island and said that all the hotels were the same and they all flood like this with the door open. What is the point of having a balcony room if you cannot open the door? Sometimes it is easier staying at a simple, cheap place with no frills and then one doesn’t expect anything. We got on with our day and we lay by the pool in the really hot weather. Then we took a stroll in the not so clean town and had some more pollo (chicken) for lunch (their staple diet). We chilled out on the balcony with the great Caribbean views and watched the parrots again, flying by; their wings spanned wide. It was very peaceful and quiet and we were once again so lucky to be experiencing such moments. We decided to go out for dinner and as we were leaving the room it was starting to flood again. This was not what we wanted and so once we found someone who could speak English we arranged that they clean it up and if need be we would move after dinner at whatever time we desired. We had another minor argument and this hotel was actually a shambles. We had another great dinner at a restaurant overlooking the beach and the music was wonderful. We had some sangria believing it to be 4000 Bolivares and then found out it was 40 000. Another argument and Rich paid what he wanted to pay and it didn’t end the evening on a good note. When we arrived back at the hotel, the aircon was on and the balcony door was shut. We were not happy with this and insisted moving to a cheaper room without a balcony since we couldn’t enjoy having it with the doors open. After a big fight we moved rooms at midnight and saved some money as well as any injuries from the wet floors. What an absolute joke it was- this hotel is not a 5 star in any way, means or form!

2007-02-23T20:37:00.000-08:00

22 February, 2007

We got a taxi to the ferry terminal and we got on the ferry to Isla Margarita. I got sick- again- but luckily it was only 2 hours to endure. We managed to find the local bus to take us to Porlamar, the biggest town of the island, for the first couple of nights. The island wasn’t very impressive but it looked quite clean and tropical. There were lots of palm trees but it is not lush at all, it is almost arid with cacti and dense vegetation. We took a while trying to find a hotel and contemplated for quite some time until we finally decided that we need a bit of luxury and we were willing to pay a bit more so we checked into a 5 star (or was it 4 star? – the hotel themselves didn’t seem to know there star rating. Some signs say 5 star, while others say 4). We spent the afternoon relaxing at the gorgeous pool, walked along the beach that was full of seaweed and then had a drink on our balcony watching the parrots flying by. The parrots were blue and green with bright yellow chests, really amazing to watch out in the open skies. We went for a lovely dinner to a French restaurant. It was so pretty and the service was very good, besides the food being excellent. It was on the beach, beautiful warm weather and relatively inexpensive. The town itself is shabby and dirty and the buildings and cars are from the 1950’s. There is no English spoken and it is difficult to plan anything or find out information. This is really frustrating us. Even our 5 star (or 4 star) hotel can't help us with anything.

2007-02-23T19:21:00.000-08:00

21 February, 2007

We decided to go to an island and we were not sure which one. Nobody speaks English and therefore it is so difficult getting information. Our lonely planet was not of much help and so we took the advice of the lady at reception at our hotel. We got to the pier and left on a boat to El Faro Island, it is part of the Mochimo National Park. It was a small island with a few shacks and shelter from the scorching sun. It was very relaxing and we lay contemplating life, the future, work, our travels and reminiscing over some amazing experiences. Lying on the beach, it was boiling hot, the Caribbean water being the perfect temperature- what more could we want?! When we got back the city was a totally different place. Everyone was back at work and it was so different seeing everything when it is open. The town of Puerta La Cruz is quite ugly and dirty and I think that it is predominantly a good place from which to visit various islands. In the evening we met a Columbian named Andreas and he offered to take us to the ferry terminal to buy some tickets for Isla Margarita. He could speak some English and so he helped us a lot with our planning. Before we knew it we were off to Isla Margarita tomorrow full of mosquito bites and not much sleep ahead.

2007-02-23T19:14:00.000-08:00

20 February, 2007

We arrived at the bus terminal in Puerta La Cruz at 5h30am and it was rainy and dark. We didn’t really have a plan but we had the Lonely Planet on the camera, a little difficult to see (not the perfect solution, but since we couldn’t get a copy of the LP for ourselves, we borrowed 1 and photographed it). We waited at the station for a while, until it got a bit lighter and we tried to plan the next few hours. The town was not very big and we could easily walk to the hotels. So we started off and found a hotel on the Malecon- beachfront. It was complet (full) and so I waited with the luggage whilst Rich headed out to find another hotel. I watched the garbage being collected and the morning activities of the people in the town i.e. people going to buy the newspaper, bread and milk. It wasn’t very interesting but it passed the time. Rich came back and found a decent hotel but we couldn’t check in until 13h00. We changed in the lobby and headed out for breakfast. The next task was to find someone to exchange some dollars for Bolivares. Travel Tip: One has to have loads of dollars cash (there is a big discount for having travelers cheques) when they come to Venezuela – it is essential to change dollars for the local currency with the black market rate otherwise you lose a lot of money (like more than 60%)!!!! By the time we were finished the whole town knew we wanted to exchange and everyone knew how much too- crazy! This is Venezuela. We got back to the hotel and were lucky enough to have wireless from the lobby- we hadn’t been on line for such a long time. Most of the town was closed because it was the final day of Carnival. We spent the afternoon walking along the not-so-clean beach and on our way back we walked through many street stalls that had just been set up for the nights festivities (Carnival). The music in the street had begun and there was a lovely vibe. We had a cerveza or two and there was a procession/parade of floats and people all dressed up but it was not very spectacular. It was interesting to see and experience. Rich got all our thorns out from the previous days hike (thanks Hardy) – operation thorn- and then we got to bed exhausted!

2007-02-21T19:45:00.000-08:00

19 February, 2007

We had amazing fried yuka for breakfast with grated cheese, some freshly squeezed juice and nutella for the guys. There is an amazing bird that Hardy pointed out to us. It is called a Calibra, and it is really tiny but can fly backwards. It flaps its wings at an incredible speed and can hover in the air and move around in all directions. There are a few dogs that lurk around the property and they obviously come for food whilst Hardy and Odalis are there. When they return to Austria, these poor dogs starve because everybody in the area is too poor to feed them and are not interested in them- really SAD.
Hardy then asked if we would like to go for a little walk, perhaps 2 hours or so. We were very keen and the rest of the gang was too. A local friend whom we named Fred joined us for the hike- a lovely young chap. This little walk turned out to be a dangerous hike and lasted a good 6 1/2 hours. The jungle was slightly dense at the beginning and nothing too serious even though there was no path or anything that resembled a path. We reached a rock that still has Indian inscriptions from many years ago- very interesting. It was then time for a lunch break and we started down the river. The first waterfall was fairly easy and so we walked along hopping over the boulders and trying to avoid the pools of water since we had our boots on. Hardy on the other hand was hiking in clogs (yes, good old Austrian clogs) and he was walking through the water. The second waterfall arrived and it was not very small. Perhaps 15-20 meters high and none of us were very keen to climb down. Hardy and Fred went down and Fred came around the mountain to fetch us. At that stage the girls and Rich all started to hike up to avoid the waterfall which was probably the wrong decision in hindsight. This was not very pleasant to say the least. It was a very steep incline and there was no grip, it was all thick bush and thorny trees. Fred finally joined us and tied a rope to Rich. Thank goodness because he went flying flat on his stomach and he was on his way to another world. He was hanging onto the rope and as Fred pulled he went sliding up grazing all parts of his body and collecting a few thorns along the way. This was not funny at all and Hardy arrived with his machete and started to make a path for us step by step. This took a long time, but everyone was safe and we all followed suite. At this stage I also had a few grazes and thorns and then we had to descend quite a lot. It was really steep and we got to a point where Hardy suddenly went passed a nest of termites (I think). They started to crawl all over and into his hair and he was going crazy (yes Hardy he go crazy). He had to run down to get to the waterfall and into the water to kill these animals. I was too scared to move and waited in my tracks. Fred helped me and I went very quickly down the last bit of mountain. Rich managed fine too but the two sisters both got the termites (or whatever) in their hair and were also going crazy. This whole hike was becoming crazy! We were now over the difficult part and we had to walk along the river hopping over the rocks all the way back. This lasted about 2 hrs and it was tiring. I think it is quite clear that it was a long day but believe it or not we really enjoyed it. In fact, I am not sure if Rich really enjoyed it. But it was a good hike in the jungle with some crazy Austrian named Hardy. We thought we would arrive home earlier and have time to relax before leaving for Puerta La Cruz. We had to rush and it was a bit hectic but Hardy dropped us at the bus terminal and we got to good-old Maracay (hopefully this ntime would be our last time there) in time for some dinner and even a McFlurry from McDonalds. We got on the overnight bus to Puerta La Cruz and it was the smartest bus we have ever been on. The only problem was that it was freezing and that is the way it is on all luxury buses in Venezuela- crazy people (hey Hardy)? Also, they started the overnight trip with this aweful movie on the TV’s on the bus blaring as loud as possible. Not quite what we wanted since we were exhausted and ready to sleep.
We were sad to leave the most beautiful house and tranquil environment but we have to continue with our journey. Thank you both for having us!
I think we are taking a break from the mountains and heading for the sea for a few days- or more?!

2007-02-21T19:42:00.000-08:00

18 February, 07

Today was extremely relaxing. We didn’t really go anywhere and we lazed around the house pretty much the whole day. Odalis made us fresh corn cakes for breakfast and Rich had his favorite- nutella. We looked through some pictures and we planned Hardys’ next trip to Seoul and Cambodia. We also had a few swims in the pool (lagoon) with the frogs and took in the sounds of nature. We had totillas for lunch and Rich and I took a short walk to the river. Odalis’ sisters and mother arrived in the afternoon and it was so frustrating because we cannot speak Spanish. We listened to music, they had brought a Spanish latest hit and I caught up with some admin. We had a grill for dinner and it was excellent. Hardy lets the food cook for 3 hours and it tastes delicious. He pulled out fresh yuka (like potatoes) from the ground grown fresh in the garden and we had that to accompany the meat with salad.
The frogs are very loud at night and one can hear the monkeys too. We spoke a bit of nonsense as usual and we got to bed quite early. I guess it is all the fresh air that makes one tired.

2007-02-21T19:39:00.000-08:00

17 February, 07

We woke up early with all the noise from the passing buses and the people arriving in droves for the Carnival weekend. We met our friends for breakfast and then said our goodbyes. We caught a comfortable taxi ride to good old Maracay again and from there we stood in line for the bus to San Juan de Los Morros. We phoned our friend Hardy from the station to tell him we were leaving so that he knew what time to fetch us. Hardy and Odalis invited us for the weekend to their home and we accepted their offer because we were told that it would be really difficult to find accommodation anywhere in Venezuela over Carnival and also we wanted to experience the local Venezuelan experience. We arrived on the bus at the point where Hardy had written on a piece of paper for us to show the bus driver and he was there waiting as promised. We got in his car/van and it was gorgeous. He has traveled through South America with his car and he has had it for 15 years. He loves his car and it is really great. We drove on a dirt road and we reached his house in the middle of nowhere. It is a real artists house and really funky. I loved it and we relaxed on the patio eating fruit and drinking tea. We had a delicious dinner and we lay in the hammock next to the fireplace (outside) chatting. We are here in the middle of the mountains and in thick jungle with nobody around. It is really incredible and they are lovely, warm, crazy people.

2007-02-21T19:36:00.000-08:00

16 February, 07

We were ready for our hike nice and early and we grabbed a yogurt at the stall before we left. We met the others (8 of them) and we all got on the bus to take us to the start of the hike. The bus broke down and so we had to take another bus! We finally started the hike and it was a fairly easy walk but it was very enjoyable and interesting. We stopped a lot along the way, as they say we smelt the flowers; and we even saw a little snake. We walked to a sugar plantation and watched how it was made and it was wonderful. We then had a swim by the waterfall and the water was really cold and fresh. Rich twisted his ankle and we didn’t know how serious it was but he managed to walk down the rest of the way. We all had a drink at the end of the hike, iced Rich’s ankle and everyone got on so well. We showered and met up with the two English fellows (Will and Zack), the German girls (Heika and Julia) and the French couple (Isabelle and Julian). We sat in the posada and had some light dinner in the kitchen. We then all went to the bars and joined all the people from the Carnival and celebrated until the early hours of the morning with our friends. It was a wonderful day all round.

2007-02-21T19:33:00.000-08:00

15 February, 07

Nothing like a cold shower to wake up to in the morning and start the day. We went straight to the Posada and we told Claudia (the German lady) that we wanted the room for Friday and we would go on the hike. We then went to the famous beach on this side of the mountain called “La Playa Grande”. It was even better than Cata beach and we joined Hardy and Odalis. We really chilled out in the sun amongst the palm trees and we had fresh fish and chips for lunch in a shack by the beach. The beach is surrounded by mountains and they are covered in thick vegetation, mainly cacti. We had a delicious hamburger for dinner from the street stall on the malecon with our friends. It was really juicy and they put everything on the roll. We were impressed by the quality and taste. Hardy and Odalis will be leaving tomorrow and so we will stay one more day. We were now starting to settle and really understand the Venezuelan way. It always takes a while ‘getting into’ a country and learning the tricks and ways.

2007-02-21T19:30:00.000-08:00

14 February, 2007

We decided to leave this little primitive town and so we got ready slowly and went for an early lunch to the eco-lodge before our long journey. We decided to go to Choroni which is the other side of Henri Pittier National Park and the more popular side. We had to go back to Maracay terminal and connect to Choroni from there. This time we caught a taxi to Maracay, which was a lot more comfortable up and down the windy roads. Then, we caught the local bus again and we were on a very windy, steep and narrow road- even more than the other one, through the Park again. It is quite funny because when anyone wants to stop they have to clap their hands and the bus stops for them. It is quite entertaining. We met Hardy (from Austria) and Odalis his girlfriend (from Venezuela) on the bus. We started to chat a little and when we arrived we followed them to the Hostal they would stay in. They had a room available for us and so we checked in and it was very basic- really basic! It was almost on the beach but once again looked very shabby and there was no view from the room. We walked around the little town of Puerta Columbia and had a cerveza (beer) with Hardy and Odalis. This town was really cute and typical Venezuelan in character. We then went looking for information and tours that were available. We would have to leave on Friday because it was the start of Carnival and everything was fully booked. So, we did not have much time. Anyway, we found a German lady who had a Posada (hotel) and she organized the excursions. She told us that she had a room available for Friday night and that was the day that there would be a hike in the park. It was food for thought. We had a lovely fresh fish dinner with our friends and then we sat on the Malecon (promenade) and drank a cerveza or two watching the locals and listening to the waves of the Caribbean.
And that was Valentines Day!
Happy Birthday Erin you gorgeous gal!

2007-02-21T19:27:00.000-08:00

13 February, 07

We woke up really tired and checked out immediately. We moved across the road and we got an amazing room, double the size, half the price and overlooking the sea. We had big windows and one could hear the waves crashing from the room. We spent the day at Cata beach- this is a very famous beach and one of the most photographed places in Venezuela. It was very pretty and we relaxed in the sun and had a delicious chicken lunch. We met Justin (from England) and his Columbian girlfriend Andrea on the bus back to the hotel and they joined us for some Sangria at our hotel. We listened to music and had a lovely evening. We then went for Italian and called it a night. We were loving our room and the town was very chilled but we refused to pay so much for the tours and support the ‘crooks’ and we had to decide whether we wanted to leave tomorrow. The hotel was such a perfect location and it had amazing views but like all the other buildings it was so run-down and poor-looking. What a pity!

2007-02-21T19:25:00.000-08:00

12 February, 2007

We had a quick flight but we lost a night’s sleep. We arrived very early in the morning in Caracas and we panicked a little at customs because he told us we need a visa. Then he checked and said it was fine- thank goodness! We waited at a coffee bar until tourist information opened and we ate the banana bread Suzy gave us (thanks Suzy) for breakfast. We found out a little bit of info, enough to get us by and I didn’t want to go into Caracas for the night because I didn’t want to be in a big, dirty, dangerous city and so I convinced Rich that we should get to the beaches. We used the credit card to draw money out of the machine like we do in every country but this time it was a big mistake. That was our first error of the day and we did not know that a black market existed yet and that they pay about a 50% premium over the official rate. We didn’t have the Lonely Planet and we couldn’t find it and so Rich was very upset and worried (we were going blind into a new country and continent and neither of us can speak Spanish). We caught the shuttle bus from the airport to Caracas and from there we caught two subways to the main bus terminal (La Banderas). This is the kind of place one doesn’t want to hang out in for too long. We got on a gorgeous bus to Maracay – a busy town we would visit frequently. It was a local bus and the Spanish music was playing loud and there was a real vibe. We then caught another local bus to Ocumare de la Costa (a beach town we did not know much about but one we had picked out from the map as opposed to the other beach towns). The bus passed through the Henri Pittier National Park and it was a very twisted road. The music was blaring- we really felt like we were in South America and we arrived in Ocumare and got off at El Playon (the village by the beach). We didn’t know where to go, or stay and nobody spoke English. Of course, Rich was very concerned because we didn’t know anything and so I went to try and find somewhere to stay. I managed to find a descent-looking lodge and they phoned the owner who was actually from the UK. He was out of town but explained that we were in the heart of all the day tours and a good location for any side trips. Rich and I had some lunch at the lodge- it was a lovely place and the restaurant was excellent but the room was poor. We relaxed and had a snooze and when we woke up we found out that there was only a cold shower (nice surprise), and we then went walking in the bustling town- not- in the evening. It wasn’t very big and we found a restaurant that served chicken. It was ok but Rich wasn’t sure what he was ordering and it was a bit dodgy. We looked for other hotels so that we could move the next day, but there was nothing descent except for one place across the road (and overlooking the ocean). We went to sleep and it was a disaster. We tried with the balcony doors open and the mosquitos were everywhere so we closed the doors and turned the air-con on. Big mistake- it sounded like a 747 bowing taking off and we couldn’t sleep with the noise and so we opened the doors again. We tried to fall asleep and we were unsuccessful. So we closed the doors again, put the air-con on and finally fell asleep. We woke up frozen.
This eco-lodge was the tourist trap in the town and the only place that one can find English speaking people. They organize excursions for you but their prices are astronomical and they are really taking advantage of the ignorant tourists. Unfortunately one cannot organize anything themselves in this town so one has to go through the eco-lodge.
I think that this town was one of the most primitive places we have visited yet! This was definitely a reality check and wake-up call after being spoilt in Canada. Literally going from one extreme to the next.

2007-02-21T19:23:00.000-08:00

11 February, 2007

We went with Benjamin to his hockey practice and then Suzy took us to the airport so that we could sort out our air tickets- what a schlep but she insisted that we sort it all out. This took quicker than we thought and we were now booked for the night flight to Caracas. Rich B played with the boys again and kept them busy whilst Rich M did some work and Suzy and I went off to have a pedicure. We went to watch Josh play his hockey match- wow- these kids can move on the ice. We had to say our second goodbyes to the Maisel clan. We had such great fun with them and they really spoilt us (I think that Suzy thought we hadn’t eaten for 7 months – thanks for everything Suzy – your snacks will come in handy).
Robyn and Coby then picked us up and we went for dinner with them. It was wonderful to see them again and it all worked out well, it was worth the delay in the end! The night was so cold- I think colder than ever and we were really freezing, especially Rich B since he had left all his jumpers and warm accessories with Suzy at the house and I still had my big jacket and Robyn’s gloves although it still was not enough. Robyn and Coby then dropped us off at the airport and we were finally on our way directly to Venezuela.
We were sad to leave Canada because we had a wonderful time with all our friends and skiing but we were happy to be leaving the cold.

2007-02-21T19:17:00.000-08:00

10 February, 2007

Rich M and family all took us to the airport and it was really cold outside so as Rich M said: “goodbyes are really quick hear”. We were certainly not dressed up either since we were on our way to sun, sand, sea and surf in Aruba. Well, we didn’t quite make it to Aruba as they wouldn’t let me on the flight because I did not have the correct visa. Rich B thought that I would be fine with my Shengener visa (since Aruba is part of the Netherlands Antilles which is Dutch owned) but unfortunately it didn’t work that way. Needless to say, we phoned Rich M and Suzy and told them that we are still here and cannot get away. Suzy came back to the airport to fetch us and we were back for another night. We asked the ticketing agent if we could go to Cuba- he said no, Costa Rica- he also said no, but he did say we could go to Miami. Rich was thinking about another cruise but I am not interested to entertain that thought. We came back to the house for a superb bagel lunch and I went for a nap whilst the two Richards took Josh to hockey practice. Then it was swimming lessons and I woke up after all the activity after a long nap. We got take out Thai for dinner and we took the boys for an ice-cream to Baskin Robbins. Rich B spent some time on the internet trying to re-route us and make up for Aruba which we will not visit. Low and behold we are sticking to our original plans (merely by-passing Aruba) and we are on our way to Caracas, Venezuela.

2007-02-10T22:04:00.000-08:00

9 February, 2007

Today was a very relaxing day for me. I went off to the beautician in the morning for a few hours whilst Rich did some admin and joined Suzy with her errands. They then fetched me and we went home for a while before heading back out to the walk in clinic. We had to get a prescription for more medication and the rules here are quite strict. One has to see a doctor and a South African prescription is not recognized. We got it all sorted out and Rich spent the rest of the afternoon playing with Josh and Benjamin (hockey, I think). We went for a lovely Shabbat meal to Suzy’s brother and the meal was absolutely delicious. The kids were running around all over the show, but hey, we’re getting used to that now! We arrived home and packed, very ready to leave Cold Canada, although we would miss the hospitality of Suzy, Rich M and family. Thanks guys for everything.

2007-02-10T21:53:00.000-08:00

8 February, 2007

We all woke up early and Rich M dropped us off at the Greyhound Bus Depot for our bus to Niagara Falls. It took one and a half hours to get there and we slept the entire way. We arrived to a ghost town, nobody was around, there were no cars on the road and all the restaurants were closed. It was already 10h45 and we had the town to ourselves. We walked along the promenade in the freezing cold and we could just see a mass of white snow, some water flowing in between and a mist hovering above. The Horseshoe falls (Canadian Falls) were spectacular and very interesting to see in their not-so- flowing state. The US Falls (Veil Falls), were almost frozen completely but still had a small patch of water flowing down. The water mass had not only frozen but was thick with chunks/blocks of snow. We were so frozen ourselves after walking along and taking pictures we had to pop into a shop/restaurant to warm up our limbs which we couldn’t feel anymore. Whilst we were warming up we were munching on the padkos/packed snacks that Suzy had so kindly prepared for us (Thanks Suzy). We then continued walking taking some more photos and fooling around in the flurries and we browsed around some tourist shops. We got on the bus back to Toronto and we arrived earlier than we thought so we decided to go to the Hockey Hall of Fame. We are not such big hockey fans but it was quite fun and we played the virtual reality games. We then were on our way to Coby and Robyn (our friends we met in Hawaii) for dinner. That was a real expedition because Richard got the directions a little confused and we got off at the East subway instead of the West one. To cut a long story short, we arrived like frozen icicles with dead flowers after a 30 minute freezing cold walk and a bit of a tiff. We had another really tasty vegetarian meal that they had prepared for us all from scratch (since they knew we really missed home-cooked meals). We played a bit of drums and watched their wedding video and it was a great evening- what an amazing couple!
I guess everyone thinks that we had too much meat in Calgary, ALBERTA.

2007-02-10T21:46:00.000-08:00

7 February, 2007

We woke up so late – still tired from the airport saga and flight delays. We eventually made it out of the house after playing with Benjamin and Amy, they are really cute kids. We got downtown and decided to brave the cold with our heads above the ground. We cannot really explain how cold it was but it was freezing (about -25 degrees Celsius) - unimaginable- but we persisted and we kept popping into coffee bars and shops to thaw. We didn’t really see much since it was so unbearable, but we tried and so eventually we made our way to Rich M’s office to pick him up for the basketball game. From his office it is a walk through the tunnel and we got to the Air Canada Centre. The Raptors were going to play the Orlando Magic and Suzy met us at the game. It was good fun and a real treat for us since we have never watched a game live. The Canadians are very reserved and not as crazy about basketball compared to the hockey, and so there was not as much excitement and shouting around us compared with the hockey game. We got back to their home and sat in the kitchen nibbling on goodies and chatting until late. Poor Rich M has to wake up tomorrow extra early to take us to the bus station and he is working so hard at the moment (it is year end time for him and Rich B vaguely remembers this period).

2007-02-10T21:29:00.000-08:00

6 February, 2007

We woke up at 11h00 since we only got to bed at 2h30 am. We got back to the airport and took the bus and subway downtown to Rich M’s office. We dropped our luggage off and had a walkabout in the underground ‘tunnels’ first with Rich M and then continued just the 2 of us on the Lonely Planet walking tour that was supposed to get us orientated with the city but instead we got lost and disoriented. I must be honest, it wasn’t much fun walking underground like moles and looking at shops and buildings from inside. However, it is amazing how all the buildings are connected. We spent most of the time in the financial district, saw the CN Tower and we tried to get to a shopping mall but we got a bit lost. We got home with Rich M after work and we saw Suzy and the kids (Amy, Benjamin and Joshua). The kids then went to bed because it was late already and we had a lovely vegetarian dinner catching up with all the news.

2007-02-10T21:24:00.000-08:00

5 February, 2007

We woke up and got ready to leave for the airport. Pubes left work and came to fetch us and he dropped us off for our lunch time flight. All going well so far, we boarded the flight and whilst we were sitting all ready to take off there was an announcement on the intercom. They were looking for dumb asses, oh, I mean a few people to volunteer to take the evening flight at 18h15 because there was a big group of kids who were desperate to get on our flight. So, Rich was all excited, without thinking, he said we’ll do it and he dragged me off the plane. We then realized or should I say he realized that our friends Rich and Suzy Maisel would be fetching us from the airport after midnight. That was not a comfortable thought as you can imagine. We were compensated $200/per person which was a voucher for any Air Canada Flight. That wouldn’t really help us because we are leaving Canada soon and we can’t really make use of the voucher. Rich came to his senses and realized that it wasn’t the brightest decision and flying business class for 3 and a half hours wasn’t worth all the hassle. BUT, it gets better. We are sitting in the business class lounge and we tried for the earlier flight but unfortunately could not make that either. Then there is an announcement that our flight which we are finally going to get on is delayed by another half an hour. Monty was absolutely thrilled and loving it- NOT! With a bit of complaining Rich spoke to a few people and Air Canada put us up in a hotel in Toronto for the night. I guess we will get to Toronto eventually and will only see Suzy and Rich tomorrow.

2007-02-05T16:44:00.000-08:00

4 February, 2007

Today would be our last chance to ski but we have decided against it. Even though we had a rest day yesterday, Rich’s back is not quite right and I am still limping. I guess we could go skiing if we wanted to but we are scared that we might injure ourselves badly or that I would fall on my thigh again and then we wouldn’t be able to continue with our lovely journey. We would have to go home and that would be a crisis. So, we are playing it safe, a little disappointed, but we have made the decision not to ski again. We spent the morning in Banff and walked around the town once more before taking a drive with the Price family back to Calgary. We had a wonderful weekend and the place was really great with all the amenities that one would wish for. We all chilled out and had another great –yes, you guessed it – STEAK- on the BBQ at the Price’s (Sharon and Pubes). Then we packed and got ready for tomorrow’s trip to Toronto.

2007-02-05T15:53:00.000-08:00

3 February, 2007

We woke up and we had a great breakfast in the condo before heading out to Lake Louise. It was a bitterly cold day even though the sun was shining and obviously the lake was frozen. It was still pretty and we walked around on the frozen lake and visited the Chateau Lake Louise which is a very smart hotel (for those of you who don’t know it). The views from the hotel are amazing and apparently in summer the lake is turquoise blue; it must be so pretty. They have built an ice castle on the lake in front of the hotel and there is an ice skating rink too but we forgot the skates at the condo. We went to visit the famous Banff Springs Hotel in the afternoon and it was also beautiful. There were 3 weddings all going on at the same time and it really is like an old castle. We had also heard about the famous ‘hot springs’ and so we drove up to take a look but we were very disappointed and so we all agreed that the hot pool back at the resort was far more appetizing than this mass of hot water filled with loads of bodies. We came back to our resort and we all went to wallow in the hot pool with the view of the snow-covered Rockies and a layer of mist hovering just above the water because it was so damn cold out there!
We got back to the room and Pubes grilled us some awesome steaks (world famous Alberta steaks??) on the BBQ. We have definitely had some of the best meat here in Calgary and obviously it is all about how it is prepared, right?! Rich met 2 guys in the sauna and so they arrived for leftovers after dinner and Pubes and Rich kept them entertained whilst Sharon and I snuck off to bed.

2007-02-05T15:47:00.000-08:00

2 February, 2007

We decided to go to Sunshine to ski today and it was a good call. We got a half day pass again because our little leggies can’t cope with more than 4 hrs of skiing. We had to catch a gondola up to Sunshine Village and it was really beautiful. The Rockies are really amazing and the only way to describe them is like a ‘cutting edge’. They almost have a serrated look and obviously covered in thick snow. There were quite a few chair lifts that we could choose from and we went up the ‘Strawberry Chair’ first. The green run had many rolling hills and a narrow-like valley in between. It was such fun and for the first time it felt like we were really skiing. We tried all the greens and we had a lot of fun. Unfortunately I had a bad fall and the ski that went flying off somehow jammed against my thigh and it was so painful. Luckily I could continue to ski and Rich also had one or two falls but nothing serious. His back started to hurt and so we were like real crocks at the end of the day. By then I was limping and I knew I would have a huge, fat bruise. Some of the views from the top of the run were magnificent and we really enjoyed the afternoon. We had gained a lot of confidence and were proud, slightly injured skiers.
A little episode that happened on the one green:
We started off fine and then somehow found ourselves on a black, which we didn’t want, so we reversed a little and tried to gain some speed for a hill that would get us back on the green. Well, it didn’t work too well, we both got stuck halfway up the hill and then we fell reversing down (towards the black again).We had a tough time getting out of the skis and getting up and I thought it was funny and Rich didn’t and so he had a bit of a fit, lost his nerve and fell again just over the hill. Yes, for those of you who can picture it all and are laughing, it was funny, although someone didn’t think it was! Monty was to blame!!!! (hey Pubes?).

We left Sunshine and got back to Banff town and we met up with Pubes, Sharon and Kids who were joining us for the weekend. We all checked in to an amazing condo/apartment and had a great evening. The outside hot pool was absolutely fabulous at the resort and we chilled in there for a while trying to recover from our falls.

2007-02-05T15:44:00.000-08:00

1 February, 2007

We woke up at 7 and decided to sleep until 9 – good call. What was the rush anyway? We went to rent our skis and boots and breakfast was a bit of a rush and a little stressful but we made the bus and we were on our way to Mt Norquay to ski. We tried to get in with a lesson but they were all full so we were on our own. We were quite nervous at first and so we started on the bunny slope just to get some confidence. Then we moved on to the chairlift and got to the green run and we practiced the whole afternoon. It was really fun and we were very proud of ourselves. Not too many falls and we came out alive with no broken bones. We were ‘exploring’ so to say and we were so glad that we never had another lesson. The sun was shining and it was very pretty but it was really cold. Our legs were burning by the end of it all and we caught the bus back to our hotel. We headed straight for the Jacuzzi and steam to try and warm up a little. Dinner was delicious since we found a reasonably priced Sushi House and that is my favorite- as some of you know!

2007-02-05T15:39:00.000-08:00

31 January, 2007

Pubes said that he would drive us to Banff and that was really great. We found a hotel quite quickly with a mid-week special and I think we settled for it because we were too cold to look anywhere else. We spent the entire afternoon looking for a condo/apartment for the weekend so that Pubes and family could join us in Banff, so we walked around the whole of Banff town freezing cold. There were some pretty views until the sun set and then it was plain old cold. We then headed for the ‘Safeway’ to get our pre-made chicken because we were not heading out again into the freezing air. We got to the hotel and had a quick dinner with some goodies that we had brought from Pubes and Sharon’s home. It was very comfortable in the hotel and we got into our gowns and headed to the Jacuzzi and steam for an hour or two. We warmed up really nicely and got to sleep soon after.
Banff is a really cute town consisting of one main road and a few off- beat avenues. It is filled with restaurants and coffee bars and surrounded by the beautiful Rocky Mountain Range and it is freezing cold- all the time. Even when the sun shines it is still freezing but when it snows or fluffs it is amazing.

2007-02-05T15:24:00.000-08:00

30 January, 2007

We woke up really late again and spent the rest of the morning doing admin and continuing with our relaxation therapy. It looked very cold outside but we eventually plucked up courage to take Sammy (the dog) for a walk in Fish Creek Park. We saw some deer across the river and strangely enough the river Bow was still flowing and hadn’t frozen over. It was a very brisk and fresh walk to say the least (-20 degrees). We got back to the house and had an early dinner before heading out to the Big ice hockey game – The LA Kings against the Calgary Flames. It was really fun and we really enjoyed the game. It was so fast and exciting and there was a wonderful vibe in the stadium. We got home absolutely exhausted. I think it is more tiring relaxing and lazing around than actually being on the run! However, we were ready for our next venture tomorrow- Banff.

2007-01-30T14:25:00.000-08:00

29 January, 2007

We finally ventured out the house to get some essentials from the shops. We decided that we needed some sort of exercise so we took the kids ice skating. It was really such fun and the rink was really icy and hard- perfect conditions. Our feet were a bit frozen but we managed. The rink is next door to a lake which has frozen and so we went skating on the lake. It is like skating on a huge hockey field, really amazing. Luckily Rich and I managed to borrow some skates that fitted from Mark and Sharon’s friend. The sun was setting and it was all really special and pretty and different. We got back home and Rich and I took Sammy for a walk while Sharon prepared another tasty home-cooked meal. We then chilled with DVD’s again. This is the first time the entire trip that we have relaxed so much (and watched so much TV) and it feels great!

2007-01-30T14:18:00.000-08:00

28 January, 2007

We woke up late and had a very slow start to the day and it felt so good. We all went for a walk in the park since it was a beautiful, sunny day. But little did we know that it would be such a quick walk since it was absolutely freezing (probably About -10 with the wind chill). The air was very fresh to say the least and the river Bow was still flowing. We went for some hot coffee and doughnuts and then we took a drive through down town. There are many parks but unfortunately everything is so brown and ugly in the winter. There are a few skyscrapers and some modern buildings and the town is quite deserted in the winter. We also saw the Olympic Park where they had the 70m and 90m ski jumps during the 1988 Winter Olympics. It is also a mountain where one can go skiing, but we decided to give it a skip and get back home and chill with DVD’s. We had another great barbeque and we all vegetated in front of the TV.

2007-01-30T14:04:00.000-08:00

27 January, 2007

Another flight today. Laureen took us to the airport and we were on our way to Calgary. Why on earth Calgary? Because Mark (Pubes) and Sharon Price live their – one of Rich’s old close school mates. The flight was quick and easy and the plane flies over the snow-capped Rocky Mountains the entire way until you reach Calgary and then it is flat and brown. We arrived in Calgary to a balmy -5 degrees and were picked up from the airport by the whole family (Josh and Amy also came with) and we chilled out at the house whilst Rich and Mark went shopping. They came home with tons of ‘rubbish’ and food for an army. They live in a lovely house that is very bright and cozy. Sammy the dog is really cute and we got settled in very quickly. The whole Price family made us feel really "at home". We had a barbeque for dinner with thick Sirloin steak- for those of you who are meat-eaters, and it was delicious.

2007-01-30T14:00:00.000-08:00

26 January, 2007

This morning we had a gourmet breakfast – crepes with strawberries and bananas and cream. We sadly left the B&B and were on the bus back to Vancouver. The views were really gorgeous and the mountains were covered in thick snow. Then I fell asleep until we reached West Van which is the wealthy area with all the mansions. We drove past, crossed the bridge and we got dropped off very near Perry’s office. We dropped our luggage their and we went for a walk along the water’s edge around the harbor and Stanley Park. It was quite rushed but the weather was so beautiful and sunny that we finally got to see Vancouver. We had one more night with Perry and Laureen and it was Shabbat too. So we actually went out to their friends for an awesome Friday night meal. It was the first Shabbat meal since we started our trip and we really enjoyed it- thank you everyone.

2007-01-30T13:53:00.000-08:00

25 January, 2007

Today was our final lesson in Whistler and it was very rewarding. We actually progressed to the Baby Green as Marlene refers to it and then finally the real thing. We were all quite nervous but we all did really well. We got down with no broken bones! We had good turns and bad ones, of course, but above all the views were spectacular. From the lifts we could see Whistler Village down in the valley and Blackcomb mountain covered in snow. The skiing conditions were not great, it was very icy and we did skid all over the show. Even Marlene was skidding a lot and we were really impressed we all did so well. On our final run my legs were actually shaking at the bottom, I knew it was time up.
I almost forgot to mention that Rich stuck his tongue to the lift just like in the movie ‘Dumb and Dumber’. He was so happy and everyone thought it was hysterical. We went back for a Jacuzzi that was really needed- we had major thigh burn- and I was so stiff. We met our skiing colleagues (Britton, Anita, Jeff and Linda) from Ontario for dinner and we all had a great meal reminiscing about our 3 days of lessons, except for Jeff who wasn’t with us because he was skiing blacks (a seasoned skier). We walked back to our abode and the snow was starting to melt since it was sunshine and warm everyday so it was easier to walk. The air was so rejuvenating and we didn’t want to leave tomorrow. I guess even if we wanted to ski we wouldn’t be able to because we were sooooo stiff.

2007-01-30T13:48:00.000-08:00

24 January, 2007

It was day 2 of skiing and we were quite excited. We caught the bus into the village and we got our skis and boots on, which felt a bit tender from yesterday. We were now 5 from the original group and we had 3 other new recruits joining us. We all went up to the bunny slopes first and we practiced quite a few drills. Suddenly I completely lost it and I couldn’t turn. Rich was also struggling a bit; I guess Marlene was analyzing everything so much that we were all confused. I fell a couple of times and at one stage I couldn’t turn so I went on my own mission and lost the group completely. I went so fast that I only stopped at the carpet- finally. It was quite funny actually and to end it all off I fell after I stopped, backwards into the splits! Rich fell a few times too, mainly after he had stopped and started to slide backwards too. We went up to the Roundhouse (restaurant) for lunch and at this stage the only real views and slopes we saw were when we went for lunch. After lunch we were all so tired and our muscles were really sore so we stayed on the bunny slopes for the rest of the afternoon. Marlene didn’t want us to go onto the green yet. We were all progressing very nicely and it was another great day. This time we didn’t go straight back to Jacuzzi, instead we walked to the resort to listen to the talk we had missed. We had cookies and tea again in the warm lounge sitting by the fireplace and a sweet guy came over to chat to us about his product. I think that we were doing most of the talking since he was so ‘blown away’ by our trip and when we left we were given another $50 just for coming in. We were pretty chuffed and I guess we had another dinner paid for! We finally got back to the Jacuzzi, warmed up by our-now very stiff seized-up muscles and we had a quick pub dinner and a few ciders before collapsing into bed. This was all hard work and we were having such full days but it was all so wonderful and challenging.

2007-01-30T13:44:00.000-08:00

23 January, 2007

We woke up to a hearty breakfast and headed into the village to get fitted with all our skiing gear. We waited at the hut for an instructor because today is the day we will never forget –the first day of skiing ever!! We were a group of 8 beginners and we all got into the gondola that would take us to mid-station. At the top we were checking our boots to make sure they were on properly since all this gear was very foreign to us. We hobbled out into the snow, on the bunny slopes and we practiced a few balancing drills. Marlene, our instructor would be with us for the next 3 days and she was great. A real no nonsense kind of chick if you know what I mean? By the end of the day we were almost skiing and we were all very proud of ourselves. Except for 2 people that left the group because they were finding it a little tough and we were down to 6. From starting out and not even knowing how to put the skis on to doing a few turns and actually skiing! We felt it was a good day and we got back to our B&B and flopped into the Jacuzzi for some TLC. We headed out to the Keg for dinner (with our voucher) and we had an awesome meal. The walk back to the B&B was so fresh and the air was so clean. There was still loads of snow piled up everywhere and we were really enjoying the experience.

2007-01-30T13:36:00.000-08:00

22 January, 2007

We caught the bus to Whistler from the main bus depot and we slept the whole way but apparently the drive is meant to be very scenic. It was snowing the whole way and when my eyes eventually opened and focused there was snow and mountains all around. It was so pretty and we were so excited. It was a quick journey and we caught a cab from the tourist information centre to the Bed and Breakfast (Haus Heidi). The house was so covered in snow that we couldn’t find the path and therefore the front door. A little voice was shouting “why are you trying to come in through the garage”? We checked in to this gorgeous wooden house and Trudy and Jim and Jake (the puppy Alsatian) made us feel at home. We set out in the snow on a walk into Whistler Village which took longer than we thought because of the thick snow and slippery ice on the pavements. It was such fun and it wasn’t cold at all! The snow was piled up high on either side of the walking path and the houses were all covered thick in the snow. We browsed around town and stopped in to warm up at a Brewery, where we had a cider which cost an arm and a leg. Then…someone found us trying to sell us some timeshare. We had an idea what it would all be about and we signed up for it. We arrived at the resort at 16h15 and they told us to have a seat. We helped ourselves to tea and cookies and then were informed that there was nobody to talk to us. So, we got our $150 vouchers and off we went. That was a really good deal don’t you think? We bought a chicken take away at the grocery store, got back to the B&B, had a fabulous Jacuzzi and had an early easy dinner with some SA wine since we had a busy day tomorrow.

2007-01-30T13:32:00.000-08:00

21 January, 2007

We woke up early so that we could get a ride with Perry and his son Daniel up to Grouse Mountain- known as the ‘Peak of Vancouver’. It was a cold drizzly morning and they were wondering why they were actually going skiing in such weather? We were wondering why we were going up too? Well, by lunch time we were all really glad that we had made the trip. They had a wonderful morning skiing and we decided to ice-skate for the first time in 15 years. We were going round and around on the skating rink in the open air with music in the background and snow falling ever so gently on our noses. It was fabulous and stunning. It was freezing cold and our feet were almost falling off but we really had a good morning. Neither Rich nor I had ever been in falling snow before so it was a real experience and we had fun. We relaxed watching a DVD in the afternoon and Perry took us for some excellent coffee. We had dinner at a Thai restaurant and we met up with Michal and Neville who are also ex- South Africans now living in Vancouver. It was a lovely evening and the food was excellent. It really was so nice to be staying with friends in a warm comfortable home and having dinner with friends as opposed to a hostel and hanging around walking the streets of downtown in miserable weather (Thanks guys – we really appreciate it). We still haven’t really seen Vancouver because it has been too gloomy! They tried to drive us to the beach park and some view points but we couldn’t see through the dark-grey clouds hanging out being nasty.

2007-01-30T13:26:00.000-08:00

20 January, 2007

We woke up ready for the ferry to Vancouver but not quite ready to leave Victoria. It was a beautiful, sunny day and the harbor looked so pretty. When we arrived at the ferry station they told us there would be an hour delay- that was absolutely fabulous- NOT- as ‘Borat’ would say! (That is for you Perry and Laureen; and for those of you who have watched the movie). When we arrived in Vancouver Richard’s friend Laureen picked us up and since it was such good weather we went straight to Granville Island. We browsed around the market and the crafts and boutique shops but it was quite cold and we headed to Perry and Laureens’ home. We loved their cozy abode and we met Asher and Daniel, their two little boys. The main feature of the evening was the Spaghetti Bolognese, without a doubt, and it was really wonderful to be in a home environment again.