Sunday, August 27, 2006
23 August, 2006
We were woken by a sudden thud on the door at 7h00 and this meant it was time to get up and go for breakfast. This consisted of stale bread and jam, hard-boiled egg and tea/coffee- not bad. We drove off the ferry by 8h30 and thought we were doing well. Wrong! It took us 2 hours to get out the port. There is just no system and the Italians drive anywhere. Absolute chaos again; the same story with two queues that became five. We waited and waited and eventually got on our way for Napoli. The drive took quite a long time, about four and a half hours to reach Sorrento which is before Naples. We found Grant and Nikki from the UK at their hotel and they came with us on our search for accommodation. We settled at Hotel Elios which is recommended for its clean rooms. It was a decent room with a sea view and there was a huge kitchen downstairs. We all went to the supermarket and got some smoked salmon and cream cheese and had some of our Croatian wine with dinner on the terrace of our hotel. It was a lovely evening and even better to be able to spend it with Grant and Nikki.
We were woken by a sudden thud on the door at 7h00 and this meant it was time to get up and go for breakfast. This consisted of stale bread and jam, hard-boiled egg and tea/coffee- not bad. We drove off the ferry by 8h30 and thought we were doing well. Wrong! It took us 2 hours to get out the port. There is just no system and the Italians drive anywhere. Absolute chaos again; the same story with two queues that became five. We waited and waited and eventually got on our way for Napoli. The drive took quite a long time, about four and a half hours to reach Sorrento which is before Naples. We found Grant and Nikki from the UK at their hotel and they came with us on our search for accommodation. We settled at Hotel Elios which is recommended for its clean rooms. It was a decent room with a sea view and there was a huge kitchen downstairs. We all went to the supermarket and got some smoked salmon and cream cheese and had some of our Croatian wine with dinner on the terrace of our hotel. It was a lovely evening and even better to be able to spend it with Grant and Nikki.
22 August, 2006
A full day doing the Islands around Dubrovnik. We decided to take the oldest sail boat as an excursion to Kolocepi, Lopud and Sipan. It was quite windy and the sea was not very calm and the boat was rocking much better. They told us that it was a really smooth trip and we could get lunch on the boat – more specifically a fish picnic with all cold drinks included. Well, we first arrived at Kolocepi and it was a sandy beach, very small beach and village and we had about 1 hour to relax. We were then given the fish picnic and some cold drink. I asked if I could get chicken instead of fish but this was impossible. There was no still water, only sparkling. We then get dropped off at Lopud Island, which luckily we had read about, because they just drop you and tell you when you have to be on board again. Absolutely no frills or any sign of communication – just a means of transport. We could have caught a ferry from A to B to C for half the price ourselves. Anyway, on Lopud Island, the main beach is about a 25 minute walk from the ferry but well worth it. There is a stunning beach called Sunji and it is a sandy beach (no pebbles) situated in a kind of bay area with surrounding mountains. It was lovely relaxing on this beach but really hot. We walked back to the ferry and boarded again for the last island Sipan. This was very disappointing since it was only a 45 minute stop and the village was tiny. We had basically had enough swimming and we had a one hour 45 minute sail back to Dubrovnik. The water was calm and sailing back was lovely as the sun went down. At this stage we bought our own cold water since there were only two types of cold drink left. We were promised fruit and this came into fruition on the trip back. We each got a wedge of watermelon. I would definitely not recommend doing an excursion, one does not get anything for it besides a means of transport!
We had a good day and we had a quick bite before getting ready for our 23h00 ferry trip from Dubrovnik to Bari in Italy. We had a long night ahead of us…
We get to Jadrolinja and there are two queues which had suddenly branched out into 5. This is chaos and we are almost last to board. We then arrived on the ferry and there were blankets, sleeping bags, cushions, towels all spread out all over the ferry carpets and passages. Everyone had made themselves comfortable for the night’s journey. It was crazy. We found a little nook for our one tiny towel and Richard’s fleece. I lay down and the floor wais so hard underneath my body. It was also vibrating hectically but I was listening to my Ipod so I was happy. There were no more cabins when we booked but we asked at midnight and they offered us a couchet. This was a tiny cabin with bunk beds- really small-no bathroom. We grabbed it and at least got a bit of sleep.
A full day doing the Islands around Dubrovnik. We decided to take the oldest sail boat as an excursion to Kolocepi, Lopud and Sipan. It was quite windy and the sea was not very calm and the boat was rocking much better. They told us that it was a really smooth trip and we could get lunch on the boat – more specifically a fish picnic with all cold drinks included. Well, we first arrived at Kolocepi and it was a sandy beach, very small beach and village and we had about 1 hour to relax. We were then given the fish picnic and some cold drink. I asked if I could get chicken instead of fish but this was impossible. There was no still water, only sparkling. We then get dropped off at Lopud Island, which luckily we had read about, because they just drop you and tell you when you have to be on board again. Absolutely no frills or any sign of communication – just a means of transport. We could have caught a ferry from A to B to C for half the price ourselves. Anyway, on Lopud Island, the main beach is about a 25 minute walk from the ferry but well worth it. There is a stunning beach called Sunji and it is a sandy beach (no pebbles) situated in a kind of bay area with surrounding mountains. It was lovely relaxing on this beach but really hot. We walked back to the ferry and boarded again for the last island Sipan. This was very disappointing since it was only a 45 minute stop and the village was tiny. We had basically had enough swimming and we had a one hour 45 minute sail back to Dubrovnik. The water was calm and sailing back was lovely as the sun went down. At this stage we bought our own cold water since there were only two types of cold drink left. We were promised fruit and this came into fruition on the trip back. We each got a wedge of watermelon. I would definitely not recommend doing an excursion, one does not get anything for it besides a means of transport!
We had a good day and we had a quick bite before getting ready for our 23h00 ferry trip from Dubrovnik to Bari in Italy. We had a long night ahead of us…
We get to Jadrolinja and there are two queues which had suddenly branched out into 5. This is chaos and we are almost last to board. We then arrived on the ferry and there were blankets, sleeping bags, cushions, towels all spread out all over the ferry carpets and passages. Everyone had made themselves comfortable for the night’s journey. It was crazy. We found a little nook for our one tiny towel and Richard’s fleece. I lay down and the floor wais so hard underneath my body. It was also vibrating hectically but I was listening to my Ipod so I was happy. There were no more cabins when we booked but we asked at midnight and they offered us a couchet. This was a tiny cabin with bunk beds- really small-no bathroom. We grabbed it and at least got a bit of sleep.
21 August, 2006
A full day in Dubrovski (as Rich calls it). There is a place called ‘Fresh’ in the city and it is famous for its breakfast wraps and smoothies with the backpackers. So, we obviously had to try it out. We got there all excited and the grill machine blew up so we could not order it. We had our smoothies and then the manager happened to arrive with a new machine. Well, that is what you call good timing and we ordered the famous wrap. It was well worth the wait- really delicious! We walked around the City sight seeing and it was wonderful, had lunch on St Blaise Church’s stairs in the main square and had a siesta first time ever! We visited the Jewish Synagogue and Museum and it is the 2nd oldest synagogue in Europe. Now there are only 45 Jews living in Dubrovnik. We walked around some more, had dinner, and arrived back to our dorm with our washing washed and ironed outside our door- unbelievable.
A full day in Dubrovski (as Rich calls it). There is a place called ‘Fresh’ in the city and it is famous for its breakfast wraps and smoothies with the backpackers. So, we obviously had to try it out. We got there all excited and the grill machine blew up so we could not order it. We had our smoothies and then the manager happened to arrive with a new machine. Well, that is what you call good timing and we ordered the famous wrap. It was well worth the wait- really delicious! We walked around the City sight seeing and it was wonderful, had lunch on St Blaise Church’s stairs in the main square and had a siesta first time ever! We visited the Jewish Synagogue and Museum and it is the 2nd oldest synagogue in Europe. Now there are only 45 Jews living in Dubrovnik. We walked around some more, had dinner, and arrived back to our dorm with our washing washed and ironed outside our door- unbelievable.
20 August, 2006
We woke up in Orebic and took a walk along the beach and up to an old monastery on the hill with amazing views. One could see Korcula Island from there, as well as many other little islands. We had our last swim in the stunning warm water and then we got on our way to Dubrovnik- finally! We were a bit worried about the traffic and the parking in the city but we sailed in and found a free parking at the entrance. At the time we thought we were so lucky! Anyway, we strolled down into the old city and searched for our Dormitory that was recommended by our waitress in Orebic. It was opposite the Hilton Imperial Hotel so it wasn’t too difficult to find. We checked in and then made our way to the old city walls. The wall surrounding the city is 2km long and it took us about 2 hrs to do the full circuit. It was absolutely incredible and I would recommend getting the audio guide for a bit of extra information regarding the history of Dubrovnik and the surrounding region. One cannot give this a miss and it is unbelievable to see how people still live in the old part of the city with their washing lines stretching across for miles and their modern air-conditioning systems. There was so much destruction due to an earthquake and then even more was destroyed in 1991 when the Serbs invaded Dubrovnik. There was a fair amount of reconstruction and if one looks carefully you can see the difference in the red-tiled roofs but a lot was left untouched in ruins. The ticket to enter the walls allows you free entry to another fort where concerts are held in summer and this used to be the first barrier of defense from the sea. The views are very pretty but there was not much to see so don’t rush there if you are tight for time or absolutely exhausted after the walls in the heat!
We could not resist a happy hour cocktail at the gorgeous hotel across the way, and the weather was superb. Dinner was at the harbour, big queues, very basic tasty food served in big black pots but the wait isn’t long. The tables turn quickly. I guess one gets good value for money! The City is buzzing at night with people sitting at the fountain listening to the musicians playing on the streets. The main square is lit up where the main Cathedral stands, and loads of bars and restaurants are humming with people. Our accommodation was a girls’ Catholic dormitory and it is spotlessly clean. The sisters are really kind and caring and the people staying here are really friendly. What a lovely place!
We woke up in Orebic and took a walk along the beach and up to an old monastery on the hill with amazing views. One could see Korcula Island from there, as well as many other little islands. We had our last swim in the stunning warm water and then we got on our way to Dubrovnik- finally! We were a bit worried about the traffic and the parking in the city but we sailed in and found a free parking at the entrance. At the time we thought we were so lucky! Anyway, we strolled down into the old city and searched for our Dormitory that was recommended by our waitress in Orebic. It was opposite the Hilton Imperial Hotel so it wasn’t too difficult to find. We checked in and then made our way to the old city walls. The wall surrounding the city is 2km long and it took us about 2 hrs to do the full circuit. It was absolutely incredible and I would recommend getting the audio guide for a bit of extra information regarding the history of Dubrovnik and the surrounding region. One cannot give this a miss and it is unbelievable to see how people still live in the old part of the city with their washing lines stretching across for miles and their modern air-conditioning systems. There was so much destruction due to an earthquake and then even more was destroyed in 1991 when the Serbs invaded Dubrovnik. There was a fair amount of reconstruction and if one looks carefully you can see the difference in the red-tiled roofs but a lot was left untouched in ruins. The ticket to enter the walls allows you free entry to another fort where concerts are held in summer and this used to be the first barrier of defense from the sea. The views are very pretty but there was not much to see so don’t rush there if you are tight for time or absolutely exhausted after the walls in the heat!
We could not resist a happy hour cocktail at the gorgeous hotel across the way, and the weather was superb. Dinner was at the harbour, big queues, very basic tasty food served in big black pots but the wait isn’t long. The tables turn quickly. I guess one gets good value for money! The City is buzzing at night with people sitting at the fountain listening to the musicians playing on the streets. The main square is lit up where the main Cathedral stands, and loads of bars and restaurants are humming with people. Our accommodation was a girls’ Catholic dormitory and it is spotlessly clean. The sisters are really kind and caring and the people staying here are really friendly. What a lovely place!
19 August, 2006
My birthday started with a banana and a chocolate milk in our apartment on the beautiful terrace amongst all the stone, old houses of the town. We managed to squeeze out the parking (dobre dobre) the man kept shouting, whatever that means, and we were on our way to spend my birthday in Orebic. We drove to Korcula because that is where the ferry leaves from and we arrived at a queue of cars 1 km long. It was boiling hot and they told us it was about a 2hr wait. The ferry only takes 35 cars at a time and it was going backwards and forwards like no tomorrow. Whilst we were waiting we passed a hotel and Rich went in to see if we could log on. At least for that, I managed to phone home and speak to mom and dad on my big day and Rich got some e-mails done. The wait was frustrating and we should have known better. It was a Saturday and all the holidaymakers were going to mainland to get home from their vacations. We should have left the night before, the ferry runs all hours through the night. We finally arrived in Orebic and found the first apartment on the beach and settled in. We spent the rest of the day chilling on the beach doing nothing. The evening was lovely, we went to a French-run restaurant and we sat outside in the warm air sipping on Rose wine and a scrumptious seafood platter.
I had a lovely birthday! Thanks Baby!
My birthday started with a banana and a chocolate milk in our apartment on the beautiful terrace amongst all the stone, old houses of the town. We managed to squeeze out the parking (dobre dobre) the man kept shouting, whatever that means, and we were on our way to spend my birthday in Orebic. We drove to Korcula because that is where the ferry leaves from and we arrived at a queue of cars 1 km long. It was boiling hot and they told us it was about a 2hr wait. The ferry only takes 35 cars at a time and it was going backwards and forwards like no tomorrow. Whilst we were waiting we passed a hotel and Rich went in to see if we could log on. At least for that, I managed to phone home and speak to mom and dad on my big day and Rich got some e-mails done. The wait was frustrating and we should have known better. It was a Saturday and all the holidaymakers were going to mainland to get home from their vacations. We should have left the night before, the ferry runs all hours through the night. We finally arrived in Orebic and found the first apartment on the beach and settled in. We spent the rest of the day chilling on the beach doing nothing. The evening was lovely, we went to a French-run restaurant and we sat outside in the warm air sipping on Rose wine and a scrumptious seafood platter.
I had a lovely birthday! Thanks Baby!
18 August, 2006
The apartment was great in every way BUT it was on the main road and the traffic did not stop throughout the night. I did not sleep very well and we had to move- Again. We were planning on staying 3 nights but we had to find somewhere else. So, after breakfast we left to find another parking so that we could leave the car and catch a ferry to Korcula island which is only 15min ride. We drove around, could not find a parking and so we drove the car onto the ferry with us. Easy as that! We arrived in Korcula island and decided to do Korcula town first. They call it a Mini Dubrovnik. It was very pretty and very old and it is famous for Marco Polo’s house. Well, they say he was born here and his house still exists but it got damaged in the war so now there is the Marco Polo tower next door that one can visit. The little streets and alleyways are stunning- all in stone and this little town is buzzing with tourists. Because we had the car we were now curious to see the whole island so we started off in a village called Lumbarda. It is known for its sandy beaches and we walked around a bit, drove to a cove, had a dip in the ocean and left, moving on to the next village. Big Mistake! If I can advise anyone what to do on Korcula island, one needs to see the town and then chill at one of the many beautiful beaches in Lumbarda. Anyway let us carry on with our journey. We drove through all these villages stopping to try and find something interesting but at the end of the day, they were just homes – very old and cute – but nothing new to us. I think the highlight of the day was definitely lunch in the village called Zavalatica. We found this restaurant overlooking the shimmering waters and we sat on the patio with some wine and good fish. It was about 35 degrees in the shade, but it was so magnificent we ignored the heat
The drive through the island was very picturesque and everything was so green. We finally got to the other side of the island called Vela Luka and we decided that we would spend the night here instead of driving back all the way to Korcula again. Big mistake no 2. We went into the tourist information and they found us an apartmani. The old man came to pick us up in his 1960’s car and it was already a whole new experience. We arrived at the apartment in this tiny alleyway only 200m from the tourist info and an old lady greeted us at the door. She could not speak English but we managed to communicate. The room was clean and we were happy. We went to fetch our car and I do not know what possessed us but we drove it up this tiny road and it took a while to manoeuver it into the little parking. We walked around at sunset and managed to find a hill to climb which led to some big cave dating back to 15 000BC. It was disappointing but the views were wonderful. Vela Luka is the 2nd biggest port on Korcula island and there are many ferries that arrive from Split and some other surrounding islands. It is a small town and it is very chilled. Most of the people in the coffee bars are actually locals and not tourists. They can sit there for hours every day with a macchiato and chat about the daily gossip. We got to bed quite early, we were exhausted.
The apartment was great in every way BUT it was on the main road and the traffic did not stop throughout the night. I did not sleep very well and we had to move- Again. We were planning on staying 3 nights but we had to find somewhere else. So, after breakfast we left to find another parking so that we could leave the car and catch a ferry to Korcula island which is only 15min ride. We drove around, could not find a parking and so we drove the car onto the ferry with us. Easy as that! We arrived in Korcula island and decided to do Korcula town first. They call it a Mini Dubrovnik. It was very pretty and very old and it is famous for Marco Polo’s house. Well, they say he was born here and his house still exists but it got damaged in the war so now there is the Marco Polo tower next door that one can visit. The little streets and alleyways are stunning- all in stone and this little town is buzzing with tourists. Because we had the car we were now curious to see the whole island so we started off in a village called Lumbarda. It is known for its sandy beaches and we walked around a bit, drove to a cove, had a dip in the ocean and left, moving on to the next village. Big Mistake! If I can advise anyone what to do on Korcula island, one needs to see the town and then chill at one of the many beautiful beaches in Lumbarda. Anyway let us carry on with our journey. We drove through all these villages stopping to try and find something interesting but at the end of the day, they were just homes – very old and cute – but nothing new to us. I think the highlight of the day was definitely lunch in the village called Zavalatica. We found this restaurant overlooking the shimmering waters and we sat on the patio with some wine and good fish. It was about 35 degrees in the shade, but it was so magnificent we ignored the heat
The drive through the island was very picturesque and everything was so green. We finally got to the other side of the island called Vela Luka and we decided that we would spend the night here instead of driving back all the way to Korcula again. Big mistake no 2. We went into the tourist information and they found us an apartmani. The old man came to pick us up in his 1960’s car and it was already a whole new experience. We arrived at the apartment in this tiny alleyway only 200m from the tourist info and an old lady greeted us at the door. She could not speak English but we managed to communicate. The room was clean and we were happy. We went to fetch our car and I do not know what possessed us but we drove it up this tiny road and it took a while to manoeuver it into the little parking. We walked around at sunset and managed to find a hill to climb which led to some big cave dating back to 15 000BC. It was disappointing but the views were wonderful. Vela Luka is the 2nd biggest port on Korcula island and there are many ferries that arrive from Split and some other surrounding islands. It is a small town and it is very chilled. Most of the people in the coffee bars are actually locals and not tourists. They can sit there for hours every day with a macchiato and chat about the daily gossip. We got to bed quite early, we were exhausted.
17 August, 2006
We woke up and thought we would have a nice slow breakfast. Well, at 10h01 they were already switching off the lights and cleaning up the breakfast buffet. We had to grab what we wanted and it wasn’t really pleasant. The hotel was very ‘Gistapo’ like and it is strange because it is on the beach and full of holidaymakers who are taking it easy. Anyway, check out was at 12h00 so we sat at the pool and caught up with e-mails. We then headed for the border…Well, the drive was so pretty with the ocean by our side all the way and mountains all around us. It was also much greener, the vegetation seemed to be changing too. We got to the border and just cruised through. One just has to literally flash the passport and you are in Bosnia. We drove about 15km and we were back in Croatia. The Bosnians do have an amazing piece of land in the middle of nowhere. Don’t know how that happened?
We took the turn-off to Peljesac which they call a half island. We had heard of a place called Ston and it is a tiny town famous for its seashells and Shellfish. It was so gorgeous and it was an important town in the history of the country. It was then (14th,15th century) the second biggest and most important city after Dubrovnik. There is a 5.5 km wall which was built as their protection and defense during wars and invasions and a while back it was the second longest wall after the Great Wall of China. We walked part of the wall that is still accessible and headed off to Orebic, which is a village on Peljesac island. We drove through some vineyards and olive groves and did some wine tasting along the way. I must say, their white wines are not great at all, I cannot comment on the reds because we don’t really drink red. But I think if anything their reds are slightly better. They also sell their wine in a 2 litre coke bottle – some are not packaged in glass bottles- really strange! We had a lovely drive to Orebic, it is a very pretty island. When we arrived we just loved this little beach town which nobody had spoken about. The sunset was spectacular and the beaches went on for ever. The water is so calm and the air so still.
After dinner we walked along the promenade and we heard Abba music. We arrived at some production of Mama Mia in German. It was really fun.
We woke up and thought we would have a nice slow breakfast. Well, at 10h01 they were already switching off the lights and cleaning up the breakfast buffet. We had to grab what we wanted and it wasn’t really pleasant. The hotel was very ‘Gistapo’ like and it is strange because it is on the beach and full of holidaymakers who are taking it easy. Anyway, check out was at 12h00 so we sat at the pool and caught up with e-mails. We then headed for the border…Well, the drive was so pretty with the ocean by our side all the way and mountains all around us. It was also much greener, the vegetation seemed to be changing too. We got to the border and just cruised through. One just has to literally flash the passport and you are in Bosnia. We drove about 15km and we were back in Croatia. The Bosnians do have an amazing piece of land in the middle of nowhere. Don’t know how that happened?
We took the turn-off to Peljesac which they call a half island. We had heard of a place called Ston and it is a tiny town famous for its seashells and Shellfish. It was so gorgeous and it was an important town in the history of the country. It was then (14th,15th century) the second biggest and most important city after Dubrovnik. There is a 5.5 km wall which was built as their protection and defense during wars and invasions and a while back it was the second longest wall after the Great Wall of China. We walked part of the wall that is still accessible and headed off to Orebic, which is a village on Peljesac island. We drove through some vineyards and olive groves and did some wine tasting along the way. I must say, their white wines are not great at all, I cannot comment on the reds because we don’t really drink red. But I think if anything their reds are slightly better. They also sell their wine in a 2 litre coke bottle – some are not packaged in glass bottles- really strange! We had a lovely drive to Orebic, it is a very pretty island. When we arrived we just loved this little beach town which nobody had spoken about. The sunset was spectacular and the beaches went on for ever. The water is so calm and the air so still.
After dinner we walked along the promenade and we heard Abba music. We arrived at some production of Mama Mia in German. It was really fun.
16 August, 2006
We woke up exhausted and got to the Laundromat 1 minute away to do our washing. Our villa was really in a good location and we thought we would abuse it whilst we could. We then set off from Split to Makarska. Nobody told us that the traffic would be hectic in Omis- a fairly big town along the coastal road. So we got stuck for over an hour! We finally arrived in Makarska and we found a reasonable hotel but well over-priced! I managed to have a leg wax in the town- big thing! We sat at the pool relaxing the rest of the afternoon- had a snooze- and managed to connect on wireless from the pool terrace. There happened to be an internet café just below so we were all sorted. The staff at the hotel were so rude and did not want to assist us in any way. We had a late pizza- naughty naughty and walked around until 1am. Everywhere was buzzing! Oh, around 12h30 we went to the police station to ask them if I would have a problem crossing the border in Bosnia and they guaranteed us it would be fine. So, we were heading to Dubrovnik the next day across the border! Makarska is a buzzing fairly small beach town if you want to relax. It is pretty but there are no major cultural sights or museums to see. I guess if you have time it is a good place to just chill and catch up on things.
We woke up exhausted and got to the Laundromat 1 minute away to do our washing. Our villa was really in a good location and we thought we would abuse it whilst we could. We then set off from Split to Makarska. Nobody told us that the traffic would be hectic in Omis- a fairly big town along the coastal road. So we got stuck for over an hour! We finally arrived in Makarska and we found a reasonable hotel but well over-priced! I managed to have a leg wax in the town- big thing! We sat at the pool relaxing the rest of the afternoon- had a snooze- and managed to connect on wireless from the pool terrace. There happened to be an internet café just below so we were all sorted. The staff at the hotel were so rude and did not want to assist us in any way. We had a late pizza- naughty naughty and walked around until 1am. Everywhere was buzzing! Oh, around 12h30 we went to the police station to ask them if I would have a problem crossing the border in Bosnia and they guaranteed us it would be fine. So, we were heading to Dubrovnik the next day across the border! Makarska is a buzzing fairly small beach town if you want to relax. It is pretty but there are no major cultural sights or museums to see. I guess if you have time it is a good place to just chill and catch up on things.
15 August, 2006
A day in Brac!
We woke up early and got to the ferry leaving for Brac island. It took about 45 minutes on the ferry to get to Supetar – a town in which the ferry docks. From their one gets the bus to Bol – which is the ‘hot spot’ of the island. The bus trip took us one hour. One can take their car on the ferry but we decided we could not be bothered with it so we left it in Split. Bol is a lovely town with lots of cafes and restaurants. We didn’t have a big breakfast (a banana and choc milk), so we had a lovely lunch to get us going. We then walked along the promenade to the famous beach called Zlatni Rat. It was a pretty walk in the shade and it took about 15 minutes from the main town. We spent an awesome day relaxing on the beach and swimming. Although my swims were only dips because of my stupid finger- still in recovery! We rented beach chairs because we are not quite used to the pebbles. Getting in and out the water is a little uncomfortable but once you are passed the pebbles you’re fine. The beach is really fascinating – it comes to a point like an arrow and then spreads our right and left. The water was so warm and there were no waves. We then got back to the town at about 17h30 to catch the bus to Supetar. We got a take away pizza and decided that would be dinner after our previous nights’ experience! We ate it on the ferry back to Split and I think everyone wished they had done the same! It was a long day but very enjoyable and we were very glad that we did not take the car because it really was not necessary on this island.
A day in Brac!
We woke up early and got to the ferry leaving for Brac island. It took about 45 minutes on the ferry to get to Supetar – a town in which the ferry docks. From their one gets the bus to Bol – which is the ‘hot spot’ of the island. The bus trip took us one hour. One can take their car on the ferry but we decided we could not be bothered with it so we left it in Split. Bol is a lovely town with lots of cafes and restaurants. We didn’t have a big breakfast (a banana and choc milk), so we had a lovely lunch to get us going. We then walked along the promenade to the famous beach called Zlatni Rat. It was a pretty walk in the shade and it took about 15 minutes from the main town. We spent an awesome day relaxing on the beach and swimming. Although my swims were only dips because of my stupid finger- still in recovery! We rented beach chairs because we are not quite used to the pebbles. Getting in and out the water is a little uncomfortable but once you are passed the pebbles you’re fine. The beach is really fascinating – it comes to a point like an arrow and then spreads our right and left. The water was so warm and there were no waves. We then got back to the town at about 17h30 to catch the bus to Supetar. We got a take away pizza and decided that would be dinner after our previous nights’ experience! We ate it on the ferry back to Split and I think everyone wished they had done the same! It was a long day but very enjoyable and we were very glad that we did not take the car because it really was not necessary on this island.
Thursday, August 17, 2006
14 August, 2006
We left lovely Trogir and got to Split. A 'biggish' City so we found a parking as soon as we could and walked into the city. It just so happened that we parked by the Park Hotel situated right on the beach but it was a bit above our budget. We followed the water into the town and started our search for accommadation. We went to a few hotels and then someone found us and offered us an Apartment. Well, we went to look for sh-ts and grins but knew it would probably not be great. On the way we saw a sign saying Villa Varos and we took a right. It was a lovely place and the owner Joanne was so friendly and helpful. The rooms are clean and the beds are the best!
We then spent the rest of the day browsing around the City and we took a walk along the water towards a park. Well, this not only led us to amazing beaches and views but a whole new world away from the buzzing city. We started to run, since we hadn't done that in a month or so, and we ran and ran until we finally were running throught this amazing greenbelt. It was all along the water on the one side and the forest and greenery on the other. No cars were allowed and there was a wonderful footpath the whole way. Many people were cycling and walking along the path in the shade under the beautiful trees. We did a full circle and were back on the other side of the park very near to where we were staying in the oldest part of the town. As we walked back to the villa my muscles were aching and I knew that would be tomorrow's problem.
We had a shower and headed for dinner. Well, that was an experience and a half. It was the busiest night of the year because the following day was an Italian bank holiday and everyone was out celebrating. We could not find a restaurant, they were all full and when we did find one the service was shocking. We eventually found one and they seated us inside and Rich walked straight out because it was so smokey. Everybody smokes all the time and everywhere and even the waiters and owners smoke in the kitcken. It is crazy! We finally did eat at 22h00 and it was terrible. So if you want to eat in Split you shopuld either go early or be prepared to wait because the restaurants are tiny and service is bad! There are plenty coffee bars and ice-cream parlours everywhere. We had a good day after all.
We left lovely Trogir and got to Split. A 'biggish' City so we found a parking as soon as we could and walked into the city. It just so happened that we parked by the Park Hotel situated right on the beach but it was a bit above our budget. We followed the water into the town and started our search for accommadation. We went to a few hotels and then someone found us and offered us an Apartment. Well, we went to look for sh-ts and grins but knew it would probably not be great. On the way we saw a sign saying Villa Varos and we took a right. It was a lovely place and the owner Joanne was so friendly and helpful. The rooms are clean and the beds are the best!
We then spent the rest of the day browsing around the City and we took a walk along the water towards a park. Well, this not only led us to amazing beaches and views but a whole new world away from the buzzing city. We started to run, since we hadn't done that in a month or so, and we ran and ran until we finally were running throught this amazing greenbelt. It was all along the water on the one side and the forest and greenery on the other. No cars were allowed and there was a wonderful footpath the whole way. Many people were cycling and walking along the path in the shade under the beautiful trees. We did a full circle and were back on the other side of the park very near to where we were staying in the oldest part of the town. As we walked back to the villa my muscles were aching and I knew that would be tomorrow's problem.
We had a shower and headed for dinner. Well, that was an experience and a half. It was the busiest night of the year because the following day was an Italian bank holiday and everyone was out celebrating. We could not find a restaurant, they were all full and when we did find one the service was shocking. We eventually found one and they seated us inside and Rich walked straight out because it was so smokey. Everybody smokes all the time and everywhere and even the waiters and owners smoke in the kitcken. It is crazy! We finally did eat at 22h00 and it was terrible. So if you want to eat in Split you shopuld either go early or be prepared to wait because the restaurants are tiny and service is bad! There are plenty coffee bars and ice-cream parlours everywhere. We had a good day after all.
13 August, 2006
We woke up to rain- heavy rain! We had a late breakfast and caught up with our admin. It then cleared and we took a walk on an island called Ciovo island. It was not a very nice walk because it was on the side of the main road, but it was along the waters edge. We then walked around the town which is so picturesque and we went up the fortress and to the castle. It then started to storm again so we got back to our room to keep dry and when it stopped raining we headed out across the bridge to the island once again but this time we walked the other way. This was prettier but I would not recommend anyone to attempt to drive on this island. The bridge in itself is horrendous to cross by car and then the traffic backs up. Ciovo Island does have lovely beaches so if one does want to stay on the island, one should drive, park and leave the car for the rest of the stay. Even in Trogir, you don't want to drive around at all, you need to park and leave the car. In the evening we had a very good grill at our Hotel Pasike. It was a good evening browsing around the busy streets.
Sunday, August 13, 2006
12 August 2006
We woke up early and set off for Sibenik. This is a fairly big town if one compares it to the other villages around and it is very pretty. The town developed with steep stone alleyways leading down towards the 'beach'. The Cathedral is amazing all built from stone. It really is a quaint town but we did spend about 2 hours trying to sort out our ferry trip from Dubrovnik to Bari (Italy). They are so disorganized and nobody can give you the correct information. It is also very busy so the ferries are overbooked and the traffic is crazy. We had a quick lunch and then we started walking towards the travel agency to find out if I am allowed to cross a 15km Border into Bosnia in order to get to Dubrovnik. Everyone seems to think that you just have to wave your passport but with my luck they will see SA and not let us through. They have all said it should be fine but we just don't know- I guess we will have to wait and see! We got caught in a sudden downpour- got drenched and had to wait in a shop for it to subside. Luckily it was only a 10 minute shower and then we had to take our shoes off to get to the car through the puddles. We then left and moved on to Trogir. This is an island that is so pretty. The whole town is very old and there are no modern buildings YET. Lots of restaurants and old fortresses, old walls and cathedrals. We had dinner at a family hotel which we were so lucky to find accommodation at and it had wireless LAN too. Walking around in the evening is impossible without having an ice-cream to end off the day!
11 August, 2006
We decided to stay an extra night in Vodice. We were told to go to an island called Murter so off we went. It was only 20 km away and when we arrived we had to pay for parking for the day. We walked to the beach and it was packed at 10h00am. They were like sausages on the pebbled stones- which they call a sand beach. The deck chairs were all taken and the strip of beach was tiny. We were also told that one can walk out for miles knee high into the water- well this was not the case either. So, we got our parking money back, browsed around the town which was also disappointing, and then got back to out lovely spot in Vodice.
We had a swim in the sea- our first one and the water was great. One has to wear flops in the water otherwise one hurts their feet!
Dinner was fish, and they don’t de-bone or fillet the fish, but it is delicious.
Grilled Sea Bass and grilled calamari.
We ended the evening with a creamy ice cream.
10 August, 2006
We woke up and decided to go for a walk along the promenade. Surprisingly we found ourselves in the next town, 25 minutes later. Tribunj is a gorgeous little village- really small but pretty. We walked up to the hilltop (castle) and had a great view. The mountains are so weird- the vegetation is strange- very barren landscape with white sand and a few bushes. I guess it is quite appealing in its own way. Then there is the crystal clear Adriatic Sea, very calm waters.
We had a coffee in Tribunj and just chilled by the waters edge. It was so relaxing and we were so happy and felt so lucky to be where we were!
We walked back to our town and lay by the beach (which is cement, no sand) for the rest of the day. It was beautiful. However, we were on deck chairs.
Dinner was a mixed grill which was average. They love their meat patties and sausages, which I guess is similar to our boerewors. There is no such thing as lamb chops and the service is not a strong point.
We finished off the day with a delicious chocolate crepe- the queue says it all!
9 August, 2006
Well, where do I begin? The morning was not brilliant. We woke up quite tired due to being cold because of lack of blankets and bed springs digging into our backs; and there was a trickle of water in the shower but there was also no hot water so we just could not shower. It was not a good start to the day since we had also cancelled breakfast because the previous morning it was so poor. So now we were hungry, dirty and tired.
Well, we headed for Zadar in Croatia and it was a big city, very disappointing. I guess it is a mixture of old and new and it is all mixed up so it is actually quite an ugly place. We were only in the town so I cannot comment what the beach was like. But we were not going to give it a try, we walked around, had some lunch- which was breakfast for us- and moved on. The weather was not looking good and the people were very unfriendly and so unhelpful. It was also very busy and overcrowded, as well as overpriced. Accommodation prices were quite high.
We arrived in Vodice, which is a small coastal town, and thank goodness someone at the tourist info actually wanted to help us. He literally took us by his hand and helped us find good accommodation. We drove around looking for apartments but we were quite fussy after our previous two nights. We needed a good shower with hot water and a relatively comfortable bed.
We immediately loved this little village and had dinner at our small hotel Billy Kamen overlooking the beach.
We walked into the main town and it was buzzing with people. Restaurants were full and it was a fun vibe.
8 August, 2006
We spent the day in the Plitvitcka National Park. It was such a relaxing day in nature. We walked through on the bridges, over the water fountains, across the waterfalls and between the beautiful turquoise lakes. The water was crystal clear and extremely clean, with many fish. One could see the moss, algae and plant-life through the clear waters.
It was a very pretty park and I guess a picnic would have been a great idea!
We got back to our ‘apartment’ and relaxed with a bottle of champagne, overlooking the valley. First time ever!
7 August, 06
We wanted to stay on longer in Baska, but we had to start heading South and now we had to drive all the way back along the same road to get off the island of Krk. We stopped in Krk town and were very happy that we did. It was gorgeous with really old narrow cobbled roads and old buildings. Lots of tourists once again! One must be careful where they park in Croatia, people just park anywhere and they block you in. We were blocked in along with a few others but luckily one driver arrived soon and we could all get out. They do not care and are very selfish in that way. We nearly got parked in again somewhere else!!
The roads are not very good even though the distances are not big, except for the highway which was built by the Americans. And then once you are on it if you miss a turn like we did there is no way off for at least half an hour.
We eventually arrived in Plitvicka Jezera. This is one of the National Park’s known for its many Beautiful lakes. We found another apartment – also a room- for two nights. They did our washing for us and let us make use of their computer. Really nice family- good people.
6 August, 06
After a wholesome breakfast at our pension we headed to the Skocjanske Caves. Not to be missed! Beautiful stalagmite and stalactite formations and they are special because they have an underground gorge running through them unlike any other caves. They are 200m deep and the river flows all the way to Hungary.
We left the caves and headed for Hrvatska (Croatia). Border control went well but yes, they did analyze my passport again.
We drove to the island of Krk and a few people told us to head for Baska, the furthest spot on the island. We struggled to find accommodation but we found an ‘apartment’ last minute. They were very friendly people but it was a simple room and not very comfortable. Very basic! It is a bustling little place packed with tourists and totally overcrowded. However, it was beautiful and had the most amazing beach, except for the pebbles. We had an awesome dinner in one of the restaurants on the promenade and then finished the meal off with a decadent chocolate crepe from a street vendor.
5 August, 06
Rich woke up on the wrong side of the bed- but we managed. We went to the market in the morning in Ljubljana, and it was buzzing with tourists and locals doing their weekly shop. There was loads of fresh fruit and veg, flowers, nuts, cheeses and also entertainment for the little ones. A few musicians lined the streets and the vibe was good. The sun was also shining for a change!
We visited the castle, mainly for the view of the city and met to Australians who have been traveling for 8 months already. We spent the rest of the afternoon with them visiting a nearby town called Skofja Loka- a Medieval town- very small with very old architecture. It was a Saturday afternoon so it was really quiet.
Back in Ljubljana it was all buzzing on a Saturday night. There were people in the restaurants and bars and walking the streets. It is a very pretty town situated along a river.
When we got back to the pension I cut my finger on my razor blade and that was a big drama! It was not just a cut. Not a good way to end the day.
4 August, 06
We headed out early to make our way to Slovenia. We had to load the car on a train to get through a tunnel and then we passed Villach and finally crossed the border into Slovenia. Of course everyone sailed through easily, but my passport was inspected for a while. No problem, Schengen visa!
Bled was a very picturesque town on water. We visited the castle and learnt a bit about the history of the country, and it was drizzling once again, but we managed to do a beautiful gorge walk.
We then got to Ljubljana (the capital), and found a lovely pension but it was out of the town- about 4km. No problem because we had our car. We met two lovely ladies from Israel (Esta and Edna) roaming the town looking for a place to eat just like us and they joined us at Pri Pavli, which was recommended in our book. The evening was great but the food was average. I think we expected more. We did however try their famous potatoes and onions that they won awards for.
We have found the people of Slovenia to be very happy and confident. They are hard-working and they also happen to be a very good-looking nation.
