Thursday, September 21, 2006

 



19 September, 06

It was a sunny day in Annecy and we decided to go for a hike to the Aignon Falls. We started the hike as sign-posted but somehow missed a few turns so we back-tracked and found the waterfalls. They were very pretty and it was an easy enjoyable walk in and amongst the trees, so quiet and perfect. We continued the circuit through the forest and open fields but coming back down was a bit slippery and slow. We got back to our hotel and sat on the terrace with some baguette and nutella and a beer shandy. In the sun, overlooking the lake- it was heaven. We then realized that we had actually chosen one of the best spots to stay in on the lake. Driving to Annecy in the afternoon again, we passed Menthon St Bernard (another town) and Veyieurs de lac (another town), not as pretty as Talloires. We did a long walk in the sunshine along the lake and then we walked around Annecy town. It was very impressive and we really loved it. It is one of those places that is not too small, but yet feels compact and quaint and has everything one needs. From the butcher, to the baker, to all the shops with the latest fashions and deli’s. The old town is similar to a Venice with its canals and bridges but prettier. The lifestyle seems very healthy too with an abundance of outdoor activities. We had dinner at La Gritta again and we were sad to say good-bye.

 



18 September, 06

My name keeps changing and it is now Monty (for those of you who are following). We woke up and unfortunately it was still raining and cloudy and we were not going up the mountain today. So, we decided to leave Charmonix and spend a full day driving through the scenic route and stopping at a few villages along the way. We checked out and were heading in the direction of Annecy. Our first proper stop was in Megeve. What a stunning town. Every turn you make is a picture- unbelievable. It wasn’t raining anymore and the weather was definitely clearing. We had a quick cuppucino at a typical ‘salon de the’ and then we did a short walk amongst the cows grazing in the mountains. Everything was so green and fresh and we really were surprised with this little town that had so much to offer, including loads of hikes on its doorstep. We continued on the route de Grande Alpes to the ‘Coles Des Aravis’. This is a peak/ or high point in the middle of the alps. We had a crepe and smelt the fresh clean country air before heading down to a town famous for its cheese called Thones. The cheese that is made in this region is called Reblochon but we were so disappointed with the town that we hardly stopped and didn’t visit the co-op either. We moved on to Annecy but we were told by someone that we must stay in the area called Talloires. So that is exactly what the Bendels did! We headed straight for this town and found accommodation fairly quickly and easily since it is low season. We actually found an amazing hotel overlooking the Lac d’Annecy (lake) with a huge terrace, surrounded by the mountains. It was a quiet, tiny village and as we settled down we thought perhaps it was too quiet? We decided to go for a little walk along the lake but there was no real promenade and now we were really uncertain whether we made the right decision to stay there. We were very curious to see what we were missing so we took a drive to Annecy (the town). It was only 10 minutes away. There was a massive park and promenade and the sun was setting and everybody was either jogging or walking or just relaxing by the lake. It was really pretty and we walked around the lake and reached the picturesque vielle ville (old town). We found an amazing little restaurant called La Gritta run by a Thai lady and Italian husband. The food was excellent, the service was great and it was very well-priced. We took a drive back to our Hotel Le Lac and collapsed.

 



17 September, 06

We woke up to rain, no surprise. We spoke to a few friends and family on skype and then decided to take a drive to Martigny in Switzerland. It was a stunning drive and the villages we passed were very pretty but it was a Sunday and everything was closed including all restaurants. Bad weather and low season are not a good mix. We enjoyed the drive but we were disappointed with Martigny. We thought that it would be a pretty Swiss town but it was quite a big City and it looked quite modern and boring. We did however buy Cailler chocolate (our favorite) at the border before crossing back to France, so I guess it was well worth the trip! We forgot to take our passports with and crossing into Switzerland was no problem because it was lunch time and nobody was there, BUT coming back we were a bit worried. Thank goodness it was fine and they waved us through. Lucky lucky! We arrived back in Chamonix at about 17h00 and we hadn’t eaten lunch yet. It was a big mistake and we went to the biggest and most central restaurant that was open all day for meals. We needn’t say how bad it was, but really it was poor quality and quite pricey too. We didn’t have dinner after that and watched movies in the room whilst the rain continued outside. We were hoping for a good day so that we could go up to the Mont Blanc Peak.

 



16 September, 06

We were on our way to Charmonix. The drive took about 4 hours and the roads were pretty good. As we got nearer to the Alps it got really pretty but the weather was a bit dodgy. The tolls cost a fortune and so did the Mont Blanc Tunnel. When we arrived in Chamonix the sun was starting to come out a little and it is such a gorgeous little town. Everyone was so friendly and they are very ‘geared-up’ for the tourists. The mountains surround the town and they are covered in glaciers. Everything is wooden and cottage-like with gorgeous flowers everywhere. We walked around and it was perfect weather for a fondue. We had a Savoyarde fondue with champignons for dinner. For those who don’t speak French it is a cheese fondue with black mushrooms. It was delicious.

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

 

15 September, 06

It was raining and it rained the whole night through. We sat on the internet for a while and had the best cuppucino yet. The sun peaked out so we walked along the promenade besides the lake and it was very fresh and stress-free. The air was so crisp and I guess it was good to do nothing. All we had to worry about was where our next stop would be. Tough question – Switzerland or France? We watched another movie and that was the end of Italy. I guess if the weather was better we would have driven to one of the many other lakesides. There is really a lot to do in the area but the weather needs to be descent.

 


14 September, 06

We were quite tired so we woke up late, had a gourmet breakfast prepared by ourselves in the apartment and took a drive to Sirmione. It is a gorgeous Medi-evil town and we walked around a bit and bought some salami and fresh bread and got back to the apartment for lunch and wine. I must confess that we did have a Siesta- our first one ever, and woke up to some rain. We really didn’t do too much except for eat and dinner was a hearty pasta dish. We watched our first movie (Firewall) on the computer in bed before going to sleep.

 





13 September, 06

A Day in Venezia!
We woke up at 6am and had to drive to Verona in order to catch the train to Venice. It took about 45 minutes and we found a free parking at the station. We bought our train tickets at 8h02 and the cheaper train that takes a bit longer was scheduled to depart at 8h01. We somehow made it on but forgot to swipe our tickets through some machine to validate them. We didn’t know we had to do this at the time. Anyway, it was all working out like clockwork. We had nearly a 2 hour train ride and arrived in Venice at 10h00am. We decided to enquire about our return tickets at the station and everyone gave us different information and different prices. Rich was getting really annoyed and we were sick and tired of the disorganization and inefficiency. Anyway we left the station and 10h40 with our more expensive late night tickets back to Verona and started walking towards San Marco. It was a beautiful, sunny day and walking over the canals was very pretty. I put some blinkers on so that I wouldn’t be enticed by any shops to do any form of shopping and we finally made our way to St Marks Square. We went up the Bell Tower/ Campanile and there were really good views. We then went to the Cathedral and it was beautiful. One must enquire about the rolling Venice card because it offers certain discounts and half price for museums. We visited the Doge’s Palace and it was very interesting. We spent the rest of the day roaming around the canals and trying to get through the ‘maze’. The birds on the square absolutely freaked me out and one landed on my shoulder whilst I was taking a photo and I almost dropped the camera. People buy food and have at least 5 birds sitting all over them; I don’t know how they do it?! At sunset we decided to treat ourselves to a drink – the strawberry- flavored wine. And with that we had Cicchetti which are a selection of sandwiches with special pastes (pumpkin and ricotta/ fish and garlic etc). I chose about five- they are really tiny, but when the bill came Rich freaked out a bit. It was something different after all. We basically walked the whole of Venice, had dinner and got lost trying to find our way back through the maze to the train station. It was a very long day and we go to bed after 2am.

 



12 September, 06

Canyoning! That says it all. We decided to go canyoning in Lake Garda and we booked the night before. We did not quite know what we were in for and what it involved- exactly- but there was a group going and it was medium level and they told us we do not need any previous experience and we’ll be fine. Well, we had to drive about 45 minutes to their base and get fitted with wetsuits, harnesses, boots, helmets and trainers. Then we all left in their van for Riva which is the Northern-most part of Lake Garda. This took another 45 minutes. We arrived at the gorge from which we were going to descend and started the hike up. We didn’t hike too far up but it was very steep. We had an extremely brief briefing about abseiling and sliding down rocks into water and started out. The water was so fresh and clean but freezing cold. It was very shady and this made it even colder. We slid down a few drops at the beginning and went down a rope or two, but basically from then on it was one drop after the next through gushing streams and waterfalls with abseiling equipment and holding on for our dear lives over steep cliffs. We got deeper and deeper into the canyon with higher drops and no way out. It was really slippery on the rocks and walking in the water and we all have a scratch or two as proof. I enjoyed it after all but Rich said that he would have rather had a root canal or two. It was only after about five hours when we saw daylight and emerged out of the canyon. We were given a chocolate bar and driven back to the base. We left without waiting for the pictures on CD because Rich didn’t want to have any remembrance of this trip. That was sad for me, but anyway, we now know that I will be going alone in future. We decided to stop in the town Garda on the way back and it was beautiful. The sun was setting over the lake and it was so pretty walking along the promenade. There was a lovely long stretch of beach too and many flowers along the walkway. It is a town that I would definitely recommend for either a visit or to stay in as a base. We had an early dinner and drove back to Desenzano (our town) and tried to get to sleep relatively early which was quite difficult with the Bar that was just under our apartment and stayed open until 2am.

Friday, September 15, 2006

 


11 September

We were leaving Cinque Terre and we knew we had a bit of a drive but we were not 100% sure where we were going next. We decided to stop in Lake Garda since it was central to a few other places we knew we wanted to get to. It was a good place to base ourselves and we arrived at about 14h00. The lake was so pretty and the town of Desenzano which is the Southern most part of Lake Garda felt good. We found an apartment and started to plan the next few days. Rich was really happy and relaxed and we got to the supermarket to do our big 5 day shop - mainly rubbish food. The nightlife here is so good that our apartment was so noisy until late into the night.

 




10 September, 06

We planned to do the Cinque Terre in reverse. That means we were going to hike the five fishing villages starting from Riomaggiore first. So we had to catch the train to the first town and we missed it by a few seconds because we were on the wrong track number. It is all too confusing here in Italy and nobody knows where to go half the time, even the Italianos themselves. We had a coffee and a browse around and caught the next train. There is the famous lover’s walk from Riommagiore to Manarola (the next village). It is called the Via Del’ Amore and you can’t quite call it a walk, it is about 15 minutes of promenade, but it is very pretty. We had lunch in Manarola but it was shocking. We thought we would get a quick sandwich but it took longer than a whole meal and it was run by an American lady who was working Italian time. We left for Corneglia and then onto Vernazza. By now we were hot and sweaty and needed a swim. The beach had a totally different vibe to the previous time when we got there in the morning. There was also no music playing but it was still good to cool down in the sea and soak up the last bit of afternoon sun. We did our final hike from Vernazza to Monterosso and it was a lovely time of day to do it. We really enjoyed the day and dinner was on the hilltop overlooking the village. The restaurant was another book recommendation and it was surprisingly really tasty. It was called Il Ciliegio and they fetch you from the town. We really wanted a seafood risotto but it was not available and we were almost ready to leave. Then we wanted a carafe of wine which they also never had. So far not good! It was a different menu so we were struggling to find something. Rich ordered a swordfish pasta which was out of this world and I had a delicious Pesto which is also prepared really well in this part of Italy. I then had a grilled swordfish- also unbelievable. They brought us sherries on the house to end off our meal and all in all it was wonderful.

 



9 September, 2006

We decided to go off the beaten track and do a hike that is not so popular and in fact it is considered to be out of the park area. We left from Monterosso and hiked for about two and a half hours to Vernato. It was really tough for the first 40 odd minutes and felt like Platteklip Gorge on Table Mountain, for those who know that hike. The same sweltering heat just before midday because us lazy people can’t get up in the morning. It was worth the sweat and the walk was very special. The views and scenery changed all the time and it was altogether very enjoyable. Levanto is a beach town on the Italian Riviera and I guess people choose it as their holiday destination. It is quite a fair size and the beach is also lovely. Even more lovely after a hike! We walked through a bit of the town but what a surprise, almost everything was closed- it was Siesta!!! Oh by the way, my official name is now Motzi, which in German means moaner so Rich things that is so appropriate. We caught the train back to Monterosso and went to the beach for the last bit of sun. We caught a train to La Spezia in the evening because we really wanted to get some wireless going. Mission accomplished!

 




8 September, 2006

We woke up late and went for a coffee and patisserie. The pastries are so fresh and the coffee here is really good. Our hiking was finally beginning. We left for the first village from here which is Vernazza. It was quite a challenging hike, very steep to start and very pretty. It is the longest one of them all and meanders round the curves of the mountain with the sea all along. There was a free unexpected beach when we arrived and we could not wait to strip down and dive into the ocean. It was such a wonderful experience swimming with the most beautiful surroundings(terraced, rugged landscape with dry stone walls holding up vineyards special to the Cinque Terre) and Italian music playing in the background. I was definitely in heaven. The Cinque Terre have been built by human hands with stone laid down one by one. The people of the villages worked very hard in the old days to construct such a landscape for survival for themselves and their descendants. This has spanned over a thousand years. We sat and admired the scenery for a while and then we walked through the village. All the multi-coloured houses are quite infamous for these villages. We walked on to Corneglia, Manarola and Rammagiore which is the last village. Each walk was pretty and very picturesque and it is not difficult to do all the walks if you don’t have much time in this area. However, it is lovely to stop in each town and feel its own uniqueness. From Rammagiore, we caught the train back to Monterosso, our village, and had an overpriced meal. As Rich says “I managed to sniff it out”. But the wine was very good! The Vermentino in this region is really excellent for those who enjoy white wine.

Saturday, September 09, 2006

 


7 Sep, 06

It was one of those days when every decision you make is wrong. We spent most of the day driving which was really unnecessary and we decided to try and do too much, once again. Even finding accommodation was a bit of a nightmare but to cut a long boring day short, we basically arrived in Cinque Terre, found an apartment and ate lunch by 19h00 in Monterosso, the town we are staying in. Dinner-lunch was actually great, we had rice for the first time in 7 weeks!

 


6 Sep, 06

We woke up and decided we needed to have a morning at the pool. We started our washing but didn’t realize it would take 4 hours. Anyway, it got done eventually and we relaxed at the pool until 16h00. It was hard to leave but decided we needed to see a town called Volterra, another historical town only 40 minutes away. It was surprisingly really special and it felt less touristy. We walked around the park and the alleys and arrived at a medieval cellar, it was gorgeous. We finally found out what truffles were and they are definitely not chocolate. It is a very expensive mushroom that grows underground and sells for a fortune. One gets black ones and white ones which are pricier and the Italians tend to cook with them a lot. They really stink so we gave them a miss.
We went for dinner at a place which was delicious, inexpensive and massive portions. It was wonderful and we enjoyed the town immensely.

 





5 Sep, 06

A day in Florence
Cock- a –doodle - doo! That is the first sound of the day. We drove to Florence, it only took about 30 minutes to get there. We parked on the outskirts of the city and walked in. I had been to Florence previously and did not recognize much. I think it is a city that looks very different in the Winter and the Summer. We walked around trying to get orientated with the place and eventually realized that it was time for lunch. We got to a very popular Italian kitchen called ‘Marios’ and it was really authentic Italian.Very funky, simple, well-priced and quick. We had two delicious pastas, some vino and headed for the Academia where the famous ‘David” stands. There was a queue but it did go fairly quickly. The whole town is flooded with art and the Piazzas are really pretty too. A walk to the Piazzole Michael Angelo is worth it, the views of the city are really good from here. You have to stop at the oldest bridge in Florence although it is crowded with tourists but we managed to sneak a photo of the river Arno. We had an ice-cream at Vivaldo, apparently the best ice-cream in Florence. Well, that was not so great because firstly we spent 20 minutes trying to find the place, then I got Richards’ big cup and I really wanted a cone, and he got my small cup and he wanted a bigger one. We both were not very happy! Quite funny actually. We got back to our abode just in time for a beautiful sunset and vino at the pool and a dinner on the patio.

 



4 Sep, 06

The morning was so peaceful except for the roosters and chickens in the early morning. It was so wonderful on the farm and we had a great breakfast outside. We spent the morning in San Gimignano, a glorious little town only 5km away. This town has not lost its Medievil feel and appearance and was definitely one of the prettiest we had seen! We had a great lunch overlooking the vineyards and went to the pool for a couple of hours, to catch some sun. We then went back to Siena for the evening and strolled around the streets and we found the most amazing restaurant for dinner. It was called “La Cellina” and it was our best meal in Italy, We splurged out from pasta to meat to dessert. It was pricey but worth it!

 





3 September, 2006

The drive to Siena. We stopped at quite a few places on the way. Our first stop which is a ‘must’ was Pienza. The town was crowded with stalls of cheese and pig. Loads of meat to buy and cheese to taste. Even in the main square there was a communal game that they were playing rolling the cheese into the loop closest to a beacon. That was a first! The town was so pretty and quaint and really worth a visit. Then drove on to Bagno Vignoni. This town is really small too and known for its thermal baths and there is still natural water running down the mountain into a mud pool. After that we arrived at Montalcino famous for its Brunello/ red wine. The buildings are very much unchanged, there is the main fort and the town is overflowing with wine tasting. The wines are not cheap in any way, shape or form but worth a taste. We moved on to Siena and tried to find accommodation for 4 nights in between Siena and Florence. We sat on the main square (Il Campo), unlike any other and decided on our next Agriturisme. We found a place and looked around the town. There was a combined ticket one could purchase for the cryt, baptistery, cathedral and museum. We did all that and saw the most amazing Middle Ages architecture. It was so different to everything else and we really had a great evening. We arrived at our accommodation, had a bit of problems, but finally got to bed.

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