Saturday, March 31, 2007

 



27 March, 2007

A sightseeing day and we were on our way to Corcovado on the bus. Christ the Redeemer (Christo Redentor) gazes over Rio on top of the mountain. Corcovado boasts an amazing view and spectacular panorama of Rio and its surroundings. The best way to reach the top is via a train that chugs up the hill. We were very lucky because Christ can be covered by thick cloud on a daily basis and it was very clear when we were there. We then got back to Copacabana and wanted to relax in the afternoon but that didn’t happen. Instead we were running between tourist agencies trying to book a simple flight to Salvador. Well, we finally booked the flight by 17h30 and that was the end of our afternoon. We did however have an awesome lunch buffet of sushi and steak. The restaurant was incredible and the service was superb. The waiters came by with huge skewers every few minutes to the table with different cuts of beef and accompaniments. We got to the promenade by early evening and we went for a very long brisk walk in the hot evening air. It was very busy and everyone was playing sport on the beach and exercising. There was a wonderful energy around and the weather was just perfect. We had watermelon for dinner after that big lunch and tried to get to bed early again. Rich was not feeling great- oh oh …sore throat brewing.

 




26 March, 2007

Today was mostly dedicated to planning our next few weeks in Brazil. We took the bus into town and went to a few places trying to find information. We realized that it is not so easy to get from A to B and that it is expensive too. The buses are a bit more reasonable but they take too long. After walking around the cobbled streets in the city (centro) and passing beautiful colonial buildings, we had a local, quick bite to eat at the fruit juice bar and got to the Bonde. This is the last of the Historic streetcars that once crisscrossed the city. The tram travels up the hill to Santa Teresa passed cobbled streets and aging mansions. Santa Teresa was the uppermost residential neighborhood in the 19th century, when Rio’s upper class lived here and rode the Bonde to the Centro for work. Now this area is inhabited by many artists and bohemians and there are cute shops and restaurants all the way up. We met Alex, his wife and a friend on the tram and we got off with them. We all started walking to a viewpoint, passing monkeys along the way and it was really far. We decided to take the bus and then we had to walk some more. It was all uphill and very exhausting and we walked through part of the Tijuca Forest. We finally reached Mirante Dona Marta (the view point) and it was well worth it. It was beautiful- the city is really pretty. We had to trek back down the hill and we then caught a bus back to an area called Lapa. – a suburb for a vibrant bohemian scene- and at night boasts one of Rio’s most vibrant street parties. We all went to a pub/restaurant and had a drink and some snacks. Alex likes to practice his English since he is studying languages and so he was very friendly. We made plans to meet Alex, his wife and friend on Wednesday (28 March) and head off to an island not far from Rio – we were really looking forward to spending a day with a local.
The days are too hot and very long and so we headed back to Copacabana for showers and bed.

 



25 March, 2007

We woke up very late- about 11am and struggled to get going. We must have walked about 20 km altogether and we landed up walking the entire day. We thought perhaps we should get orientated with the different areas and suburbs. We started in Copacabana and passed Aropador and continued to Ipanema (passed the famous “Girl from Ipanaema”). The promenade goes on forever all the way along the beach- it is really pretty. It was a Sunday, so everywhere was very busy and there were so many people out and about. We reached Leblon and went into the suburb, through the shops and restaurants. We then reached the lagoon (Lagoa Rodrigo De Freitas) and walked around the entire path for almost 7 km. It was very pretty and we passed plastic swan boats, more restaurants and kiosks. We walked and walked and it almost felt like we were doing a “Forest Gump’. Our feet were really sore- we didn’t even have trainers on- silly. We found a superb restaurant in Ipaneama that Renzo had recommended (thanks Renzo) and we had delicious steak fillet pieces that we cooked ourselves at the table, and to perfection. So far, we are very impressed with the city. It is reasonably clean, there are lovely beaches, lakes, mountains (forest) and a good transport system. We thought that it would be a lot more dangerous and unsafe- but so far we have not felt scared. The Brazilian people are really lovely and warm and they are helpful even though their English is not very good. We are really enjoying Rio and its people.

 


24 March, 2007

The world’s fifth - largest country, music, dancing, jungle and partying all await us in this colorful, vibrant part of the world. We arrived in Rio de Janeiro early in the morning after a 9 and a half hour flight. We were quite tired to say the least and all we could think about was finding a hotel and getting some sleep. Well, the day didn’t really work out like that. We took forever finding accommodation. We caught the bus into Copacabana from the airport and then we started hunting. Everywhere here is so expensive considering what you get and we eventually landed up in a hostel. The actual hostel was really fun and funky, but it wasn’t for us. There were mainly dormitories but the double room they had was tiny; like a cell. No windows, just four walls and a bed with no room for our bags. This was not an option and there were only shared bathrooms (for about 200 people). This place reminded me of the catteries that we visited before we left CT, just with humans instead of cats, lying all over the show in their bunks-quite funny actually. Anyway, after all of that and now that you can hopefully picture the whole thing, I waited at the hostel whilst Rich went hunting for a place to stay. By now it was nearly lunch time and it must have been about 30 degrees outside. We were dripping with sweat (and we had our smart clothes on in case we got to fly business class) and we just wanted to get rid of the bags! Rich eventually came back; I had already met half the hostel, and we moved to an apartment that he had found which was affiliated to a hotel. We finally got settled and got to the famous Copacabana beach. No, there were no topless chicks with g-strings. Don’t know where they are?! We walked a bit and then fell asleep on the beach. We took a walk along the promenade and had to taste ‘The’ famous Caipirinha (drink made from sugarcane spirit and crushed citrus). There were many people walking and running and cycling, lots of dogs too, all well- groomed. The beach was now very busy with football and volleyball games. It seems like everyone tries to keep fit and lead a healthy life. We were very impressed and decided that we would join them!

Sunday, March 25, 2007

 




23 March, 2007

We woke up really exhausted, all the stress and rushing around, going to and from the airport I guess. Rich went to the gym with Renzo and I went to Yoga with Julia- it was wonderful. Before we knew it, everyone was on the computer again – quite sickening- total obsession. All three computers in the house were busy. I helped Julia pack a picnic for the park and the weather was just glorious (about 27 degrees). We took a blanket and went off to the park across the way, lay chilling and chatting and… baking in the sun. We went for our final cerveca together before leaving for the airport again. We were going to try and make the same flight tonight to Rio de Janeiro. Back to the MARTA and we said our brief goodbyes to J&R presuming we will see them later again, same time same place. We made sure that our luggage was also on standby (since it was still at the airport-we hoped) and then proceeded to the gate. We went through the ‘pleasant’ US security again. By now we’re pros at taking our shoes off, computer out the bag, zip lock stuff (toiletries) in place and a smile! Ha Ha. Well, we got on the flight and we were finally on our way to Brazil. I think Julia was a bit upset, sorry about that, but hey, next time we are on buddy passes I am sure we will make up for lost time. We are glad that we got on the flight because we are sick of going backwards and forwards to the airport and wasting away those good beer-drinking hours at sunset. And, we didn’t have our luggage so three days in the same clothes is pushing it- even for us backpackers!

 



22 March, 2007

We woke up ready for a big breakfast at ‘The Waffle House’. All we seem to be doing is eating and drinking. Rich met Larry who was such a great waiter and they immediately connected if you know what I mean. An instant love affair and we got a 10% discount (which is like 16.6% earned) and free grits for us South Africans to taste. Another healthy meal for us – not. We then went shopping at Lenox mall. It was fun to catch up on all the items we needed and a few Victoria Secret garments thrown in. Meantime, whilst Julia and I were in the store, Rich found the Delta office and changed our flight from Caracas, Venezuela to Rio, Brazil. So, now we are going directly to Brazil and we don’t have to go through Venezuela. The flight to Rio is not looking very good but we are going to the airport anyway, we will try and get on. Oh, we could have been going on Business Class to Caracas, Venezuela, just by the way. We had a slow relaxing lunch and another beer at a lovely pub, sitting outside in the Spring air. Atlanta is a very pretty city – lots of trees and parks and greenery. Before we knew it, we were showering and leaving for the airport on the MARTA. We checked in and our bags went through, but we didn’t get on the flight – there was only 1 seat left so we both decided to stay in Atlanta and try again tomorrow. So, we were back on the MARTA and Renzo and Julia picked us up once again and we went for a drink and late night bite. We had a laugh about the whole thing and it was actually becoming quite funny this whole scene. We couldn’t get our luggage and so it wasn’t ideal. However, we were happy to be with Renzo and Julia another night.

 

21 March, 2007

The loads were all looking good and so we were leaving for the airport. We are on buddy passes and so we have to wait on standby. The shuttle came to fetch us, although Rich was contemplating to catch the bus – even though everyone told him not to. I insisted on doing the shuttle and so it cost a bit more. Unfortunately we didn’t get on business class but we got on so yey. We were the very last two to walk onto the plane and we had three seats each. It was only a four hour flight to Atlanta but we were starving and we only got snacks. We were almost sure that they would serve lunch- hell no! We arrived in Atlanta and went for dinner with Julia and Renzo to a stunning Tapas bar and Macy managed to join us again. We were back on the futon in the ‘Daniel Palace’ in Atlanta. Tomorrow we can enjoy the day because our flight to Caracas only leaves late afternoon.

 



20 March, 2007

We all checked out of the apartment and went for our last breakfast at the Best Western. Julia and Renzo were leaving to go back home and we were meant to go with them but we are not going because the loads on their flight are not looking good and we do not want to drive an hour and a half to the airport just to turn around and try again tomorrow. We have decided to move back to the famous Villas Macondo for one night. When we checked out- there was another fight with management and we were very angry. They were trying to charge us for the lock which they broke- can you believe it?! How ridiculous. We sorted it out and moved to our lovely place with the patio. That is where we spent the morning, swimming and reading and Rich on the computer, of course. The beach was so different, it was practically high tide the entire afternoon and there was no sand. All the surfers were in the ocean- crazy stuff. The water was gushing creating gaps in the beach that were not passable, but we still enjoyed our last sunset and had some fish for dinner. This has definitely been our longest stay in any one place, it really has felt like a holiday and it has been very relaxing.

 











19 March, 07

If it wasn’t for all the construction around I think it would be a really nice town. It is absolutely booming and unfortunately the roads haven’t been developed in conjunction with the buildings and so there is dust and sand all over. And Noise! After breakfast we decided to go to Playa Grande- a really long pretty beach- I think- because we didn’t quite get there. We first all walked to the boats that take you across. The guy there said we could walk across a little further down since it was low tide. Julia and I tried and we sank in the sand. So, Rich decided to test it out as the guinea pig and walk across to see if it was possible with all our bags. Well, it was funny to watch him as he waded in the water, and he made it across but we all decided it was touch and go and so we stayed on our beach. After lunch we had to waddle up that horrific hill again and straight into the pool. By now we had all found our spots to relax in for the afternoon: Renzo on the couch right by the air conditioning, Rich baking in the sun outside, Julia in her room reading, and me on the bed chilling in the breeze with the door open. We went for some Nachos tonight- supposedly ‘as big as your ass’ and so Rich and Renzo wanted to measure which ass- ha ha! We had such a healthy dinner; nachos, fries with melted cheese and a pizza to end it all off. How disgusting is that! No, it was delicious. At least we had the trek up the hill- nobody can say that we are not doing our exercise, hey!?

 






18 March, 2007

Breakfast is included in our package and so we went to the Best Western for a continental disaster. No, it wasn’t so bad but nothing to write home about. We took Renzo and Julia to Langosta beach for the morning although by the time we walked there it was almost afternoon. At first the tide was low and it was very hot and windy. Later the tide came up and we all had a good few swims. We were all fighting for some shade under the tree and we burned our feet on the sand a few times –it was just so warm. We got really lazy and so we caught a taxi from the beach all the way back to Tamarindo and UP THE HILL! Whoo- at least for that. We chilled at the apartment for the afternoon, eating reading and sleeping. A few swims in the pool to try and cool down and back to the beach for that unforgettable sunset again. Just in the nick of time, with our cervecas (for those of you who still don’t know- beer). Dinner was good but Rich managed to have a bit of a fight with management over prices –again. We walked up back to the apartment and called it a night. Not the most adventurous at night- are we?!

 



17 March, 07


We were sad to be leaving Villas Macondo. It was a really comfortable place, we had our little patio and free wireless internet and we were very settled. But, Julia and Renzo are arriving later and so we are moving to a fancy apartment; how wrong can you go with that?! We trekked across the town in the heat with our bags to the Best Western where we fetched the keys. They could not give us a lift to the condo and so we had to walk up quite a steep hill and it wasn’t hot, it was boiling. Our bags felt so heavy and I felt every muscle in my legs. We got to the apartments and they omitted to give us the code to enter the security gate. Luckily we found the maintenance fellow and he let us in. We happened to find a washing machine and this was such good news. It is amazing what makes one excited on a trip like this. Anyway, we did four loads of washing (with loads of detergent) - even our clean clothes we re-washed and we also did our filthy day bags. The place did not have a cupboard with hanging space and so we called the hotel and they sent some fellow to open the cupboard that was locked. He just broke the lock –just like that- and it was crazy, but we got some hanging space. We had a sandwich and a swim in the lovely complex pool and waited for the Daniel’s to arrive. They arrived all hot and sweaty and we all walked down to the beach. Julia and I had a swim for about half an hour- the waves were great and the water was so warm. We watched the sun setting and walked back up the hill for a glass of wine on the patio. We were very relaxed and it was really comfortable in the apartment. We had delicious fish for dinner and we trekked back up that blessed hill for the fourth time today- and last.

Saturday, March 17, 2007

 




16 March, 07

It is our anniversary today and so – no fighting! (smile). We had breakfast on the patio, some toast and avocado (and Nutella for Rich), and OJ and we decided to go for a walk along the beach. We walked passed some rocks and reached another beach called Langosta Beach. It was quite rocky and there was absolutely nobody around. We then found a path that lead is off the beach to a little suburb with expensive condos and villas for rent. We popped into one of the villas to find out the price; almost had heart failure, and then we just walked admiring the gorgeous houses. We reached the only all inclusive hotel and it was very beautiful. Unfortunately they only had one room left for the weekend and so it was not possible because Renzo and Julia are joining us tomorrow. It is boiling hot here and we are sweating. We headed to the beach again and we found the most amazing little estuary where apparently the turtles breed. Unfortunately the conservationists were here a few days ago tagging the babies and now they have all left. We sat by the river which flows from the sea and it was very protected. The water was like a lake except there was quite a strong current. It was gorgeous and there were so many birds around. We spent a couple of hours here, knowing we would be back in the next day or two, and we walked back to Tamarindo along the beach. On the way we passed a washed –up dead baby turtle, he obviously didn’t make it along with the rest of them- poor thing. Then we passed a dead water snake- exactly the same snake that I had seen yesterday in the ocean. It was black with a yellow stripe! We had a swim halfway back and then we got back to our hotel, it was sweltering hot, and we had a swim in the pool to try and cool off which was not really possible. We had lunch on the patio- one of the best lunches ever- for me anyway. I had a huge avocado and tuna sandwich on dark bread and a mango for dessert. We relaxed by the pool for the afternoon and walked to the beach for the most beautiful sunset over the Pacific. We fetched our bottle of wine that we had put in the freezer and went to a restaurant (more like a shack) for fresh seafood. It was relatively inexpensive and we had a pretty decent meal. We walked back to the hotel exhausted and it was only 20h00. We sat on the patio, had a few swims and did some blog and therefore you can now all read the latest news!!! It was a great anniversary! I love you Baby!

 



15 March, 2007

I finally got my legs waxed. Oh, what a relief! After that was out the way we decided to go to another beach called Flamingo Beach. We waited for the bus that was 45 minutes late and we got to the bay. We walked along the bay thinking it was the beach when we realized there was not one other person around. We found the beach, it was very quiet and secluded and we relaxed under a palm tree chilling out- again. Rich read whilst I went for my walk up and down sussing out the area. There were many vultures in the sky and I passed a dead bird that looked like an Eagle? Poor thing! It was massive and its claws were the size of my hand. I then went for a swim in the rough ocean and whilst standing quite near to the shore, I saw a water snake pass by. Oh my, I got such a fright since these are apparently very dangerous and the most deadly in the whole of Costa Rica. It was black with a yellow stripe- exactly the description we were told a few days ago. They are also very rare so I was quite excited about it all but then I was too scared to go back into the ocean. We headed back to the bus stop at about 16h15 because we were told that there would be a bus at 16h30 or 17h00. Well, we waited and waited and there was no bus. People were now telling us that the bus would arrive at 19h00 and so we found a bar/restaurant where we could sit and have a drink and still watch for the bus. We had a drink or two and then the place started to liven up. There was actually a party going on with live music and they had a really nice feature too- a beer barrel on tap for the guests. Since the bus wasn’t arriving, we decided to fill up with some beer from the party (which was only for guests obviously) and before we knew it we had quite a few drinks. I guess we made the most of the evening waiting for the bus but by 20h00 we decided that it was enough and we actually had to catch a taxi back to Tamarindo. Four hours and no bus!!! We got back, had a swim in the pool and collapsed into bed.

 



14 March, 2007

We had an early start, a good breakfast again and no shower (still no water at our hostel). The driver came to pick us up for our trip to the coast. We were off to the Pacific Ocean and the beaches of Costa Rica. There was one other couple in the car and we had to drive on the terrible dirt roads for about 2 hours. These are probably the worst roads that we have had to encounter anywhere in the world. The drive was very bumpy but scenic and mountainous. We drove to the province of Nicoya and across the Puntas Las Amistad (over the gulf of Nicoya). The driver drove really slowly unlike the other drivers here and it was quite frustrating. We finally got to Tamarindo four hours later and checked into the Lonely Planets author’s choice ‘Villas Macondo’. A very good, comfortable midrange accommodation. It has really clean and spacious rooms with a pool, shared kitchen and patio with hammocks. The only problem with this town is that there is a lot of construction going on and it is very dusty and sandy everywhere. The weather is about 40 degrees in the shade so it is boiling hot during the day and night. We went to the beach for the afternoon, a really long strip of sand and the ocean was really warm too. We went for a walk at sunset and bought some beers at the supermarket. We sat on our luxurious patio chatting on the phone and catching up with the blog whilst rocking in the hammock. Rich had quite a nice birthday and we went for a special dinner to a fancy restaurant. The food was good and we were exhausted after a full day.

Friday, March 16, 2007

 








13 March, 07

We had a great breakfast which was cooked up by the two brothers at our hostel. They really try so hard. We went off to do the canopy tour but first we walked along the suspension bridges. The walk was very pretty but we didn’t see too much. A few birds and many bridges high up above the rainforest, almost in the clouds. We then did the famous canopy tour and it was superb. Even Rich enjoyed it and it was very professional. The distances were quite big between the trees and it really was fun. We got back to the hostel, did a bit of internet and decided to do the night walk. This tour was also pricey but we were planning on leaving tomorrow and so it would be our last walk in the forest. Rich wants to get to the beaches (and get his tan back – 5 days of no beach isn’t good for him)!!! We saw a few tarantulas, a few night bugs and insects, loads of fireflies and another viper snake. The walk was fun and the night sounds were great. It was a different experience and we really enjoyed it. Unfortunately, the pipes outside our hotel were hit whilst construction was going on with the roads and there was still no water since the morning. We couldn’t shower and so we went for dinner to the same restaurant as the previous night. An excellent meal again and off to bed nice and stinky.

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