Thursday, October 26, 2006
25 October, 2006
We relaxed again the entire morning and it was great. We had a slow lunch and then we went on a camel safari. We left from the fort in a jeep and drove about 40 minutes before turning onto a sand road for another 10 km. We got dropped off in a desert village and we looked around. Then we waited with a camel man in his house with his family for our camels to arrive. It really wasn’t touristy and we were glad that we didn’t go with our driver to Khuri village where all the tourists go. We started off on the camels and it was really bumpy. My whole body was gyrating in all directions. It is no wonder that people get so stiff and sore after riding for a few days. We walked for a while, took a few pictures, ate some desert fruit and then got to a point on the dunes to watch the sun setting. It was so beautiful and magical and quiet. Once the sun had set we joined a group of people who were doing a two day safari and we had dinner with them by the campfire under the stars. They were a fun group and we really enjoyed it. Everything was perfect but there are a million of these dung beetles all over. They are absolutely harmless but they crawl all over you and I don’t think we would have had a pleasant night in the open. It was however so peaceful and perfect and unfortunately we had to leave everyone to get back to the jeep. Our camel man led us back on the camels under the star-lit sky back to our jeep. Camels do fart as you know but Rich let one off and he couldn’t get away with it (seems like desert food doesn’t agree with him). The camel man laughed and called it ‘broken bum’. It was really funny and we had a great walk back. Our jeep wouldn’t start so we had to push it and then we were so worried we would choke off along the way. The drive on the dirt road seemed to last for ever and it was crazy. We were bouncing around the back and it was very adventurous - if I may say so myself. The driver kept stopping and checking the tyres and taping things - G-d knows what he was doing. By the time we reached the road Rich was looking a bit pale around the gills. We had a bumpy road back to the fort and were happy to get to our room for a shower even thought it was so pathetic.
We relaxed again the entire morning and it was great. We had a slow lunch and then we went on a camel safari. We left from the fort in a jeep and drove about 40 minutes before turning onto a sand road for another 10 km. We got dropped off in a desert village and we looked around. Then we waited with a camel man in his house with his family for our camels to arrive. It really wasn’t touristy and we were glad that we didn’t go with our driver to Khuri village where all the tourists go. We started off on the camels and it was really bumpy. My whole body was gyrating in all directions. It is no wonder that people get so stiff and sore after riding for a few days. We walked for a while, took a few pictures, ate some desert fruit and then got to a point on the dunes to watch the sun setting. It was so beautiful and magical and quiet. Once the sun had set we joined a group of people who were doing a two day safari and we had dinner with them by the campfire under the stars. They were a fun group and we really enjoyed it. Everything was perfect but there are a million of these dung beetles all over. They are absolutely harmless but they crawl all over you and I don’t think we would have had a pleasant night in the open. It was however so peaceful and perfect and unfortunately we had to leave everyone to get back to the jeep. Our camel man led us back on the camels under the star-lit sky back to our jeep. Camels do fart as you know but Rich let one off and he couldn’t get away with it (seems like desert food doesn’t agree with him). The camel man laughed and called it ‘broken bum’. It was really funny and we had a great walk back. Our jeep wouldn’t start so we had to push it and then we were so worried we would choke off along the way. The drive on the dirt road seemed to last for ever and it was crazy. We were bouncing around the back and it was very adventurous - if I may say so myself. The driver kept stopping and checking the tyres and taping things - G-d knows what he was doing. By the time we reached the road Rich was looking a bit pale around the gills. We had a bumpy road back to the fort and were happy to get to our room for a shower even thought it was so pathetic.
24 October, 2006
We moved to another hotel which was located inside the fort. It was a 600 year old Haveli and it was very cute but the bathroom was shocking – tiny. It was quite a different feeling staying in the fort and we didn’t really need our driver for anything. We did a city tour which was average and then we actually relaxed. Rich did our washing and we sat in our little bay window overlooking the desert city whilst the sun set. We really felt like we had time to chill and do our own thing today and the shops were so easily accessible. Jaisalmer is a quiet and peaceful town with little harassment. It is very hot so the mornings are busy and then it feels like the whole town is sleeping away the uncomfortable afternoon heat. The evenings are very chilled and there is never much hustle and bustle at all. No cars are allowed within the fort so this also helps with the noise pollution. The internet is very slow and frustrating and having a meal is a couple of hours at least. First you wait for the food to come and it takes so long that by the time it comes you have engaged in a conversation with other travelers which could last the entire afternoon or evening.
We moved to another hotel which was located inside the fort. It was a 600 year old Haveli and it was very cute but the bathroom was shocking – tiny. It was quite a different feeling staying in the fort and we didn’t really need our driver for anything. We did a city tour which was average and then we actually relaxed. Rich did our washing and we sat in our little bay window overlooking the desert city whilst the sun set. We really felt like we had time to chill and do our own thing today and the shops were so easily accessible. Jaisalmer is a quiet and peaceful town with little harassment. It is very hot so the mornings are busy and then it feels like the whole town is sleeping away the uncomfortable afternoon heat. The evenings are very chilled and there is never much hustle and bustle at all. No cars are allowed within the fort so this also helps with the noise pollution. The internet is very slow and frustrating and having a meal is a couple of hours at least. First you wait for the food to come and it takes so long that by the time it comes you have engaged in a conversation with other travelers which could last the entire afternoon or evening.
23 October, 2006
We left Jodhpur and had a four and a half hour drive (285 km) to Jaisalmer - not too bad for Indian standards. We worked in the car again doing admin, labeling photos and time went by. We saw an Iguana running across the road, really big, and the landscape was now very different. It was almost like driving through the Karoo. It was very dry, flat and rugged with cacti and small shrubby bushes. We had a bit of hassles with our hotel but eventually settled somewhere for one night. We went to the lake (Gadi Sagar) which provides this arid region with all its water and then Suresh took us to Sunset Point. This is where the cenotaphs are (Kings Buried) and it is a bit out the town. There are beautiful views of the fort and the Golden City from this point and after all the hassles we had with accommodation we chilled here for a while in the still desert air. We had dinner with a magnificent view of the fort and this town was very quiet and calm- unlike any other Indian city. When we got back to the Haveli - our apartment- we spoke with the owner and his lovely family for quite a while before heading off to bed. They were real good people and we were sad that we had to move to another hotel for the next two nights.
We left Jodhpur and had a four and a half hour drive (285 km) to Jaisalmer - not too bad for Indian standards. We worked in the car again doing admin, labeling photos and time went by. We saw an Iguana running across the road, really big, and the landscape was now very different. It was almost like driving through the Karoo. It was very dry, flat and rugged with cacti and small shrubby bushes. We had a bit of hassles with our hotel but eventually settled somewhere for one night. We went to the lake (Gadi Sagar) which provides this arid region with all its water and then Suresh took us to Sunset Point. This is where the cenotaphs are (Kings Buried) and it is a bit out the town. There are beautiful views of the fort and the Golden City from this point and after all the hassles we had with accommodation we chilled here for a while in the still desert air. We had dinner with a magnificent view of the fort and this town was very quiet and calm- unlike any other Indian city. When we got back to the Haveli - our apartment- we spoke with the owner and his lovely family for quite a while before heading off to bed. They were real good people and we were sad that we had to move to another hotel for the next two nights.
22 October, 2006
We woke up and left for Jodhpur – the blue city. I was not feeling my best and the drive was horrendous at first. The road was plane old bad but it was pretty because we were driving through the Aravelli Mountain Range and there were few places that were inhabited. It was very green and clean. In the wooded valley is Ranakpur (one of India’s biggest and most important Jain Temples) but unfortunately it was closed. We finally got to Jodhpur and it felt like 40 degrees. It was boiling hot and we tried to swallow some Biryani on the rooftop terrace before heading to Meherangarh Fort of which we had a beautiful view from the terrace. We got some audio guides and the tour was wonderful. We really enjoyed it and from the top of the fort one really had a bird’s eye view of this blue city. We then went to smell some spices but because of Diwali the teas were not available to taste. We had dinner in a candle-lit garden and it was excellent. I finally tasted the Masala tea but it was not as good as the Kashmir tea. We tried to fall asleep but it was very difficult because there were fireworks non-stop.
We woke up and left for Jodhpur – the blue city. I was not feeling my best and the drive was horrendous at first. The road was plane old bad but it was pretty because we were driving through the Aravelli Mountain Range and there were few places that were inhabited. It was very green and clean. In the wooded valley is Ranakpur (one of India’s biggest and most important Jain Temples) but unfortunately it was closed. We finally got to Jodhpur and it felt like 40 degrees. It was boiling hot and we tried to swallow some Biryani on the rooftop terrace before heading to Meherangarh Fort of which we had a beautiful view from the terrace. We got some audio guides and the tour was wonderful. We really enjoyed it and from the top of the fort one really had a bird’s eye view of this blue city. We then went to smell some spices but because of Diwali the teas were not available to taste. We had dinner in a candle-lit garden and it was excellent. I finally tasted the Masala tea but it was not as good as the Kashmir tea. We tried to fall asleep but it was very difficult because there were fireworks non-stop.
21 October, 2006
We started the day with a visit to Jagdesh Temple which is a Hindu Temple. It was interesting since we had a guide who explained everything to us. We then walked to the City Palace and had a tour there. It was very interesting and the architecture and decorations were wonderful once again. We walked around the streets and I bought a diary with hand-made paper. We’ll see how long it lasts. We went to the gardens of the Maidens of Honor and there were lovely fountains. Udaipur is definitely the cleanest city we have been to. We asked our guide to take us to a private artists’ house off the beaten track to look at miniature paintings which is what they are famous for in this region, besides jewelry and marble. We looked at some art work and we really loved it. It is absolutely incredible how fine and detailed the art work is. We bought two paintings after hard negotiations and we have authentic original certification too. Everything has a meaning to it in India and I guess that is why everything is so fascinating. The following are some of the meanings we have learnt:
Animal Symbol City Colour
Elephant Good luck Jaipur Pink
Camel Love Jaisalmer Yellow
Horse Power Udaipur White
We started the day with a visit to Jagdesh Temple which is a Hindu Temple. It was interesting since we had a guide who explained everything to us. We then walked to the City Palace and had a tour there. It was very interesting and the architecture and decorations were wonderful once again. We walked around the streets and I bought a diary with hand-made paper. We’ll see how long it lasts. We went to the gardens of the Maidens of Honor and there were lovely fountains. Udaipur is definitely the cleanest city we have been to. We asked our guide to take us to a private artists’ house off the beaten track to look at miniature paintings which is what they are famous for in this region, besides jewelry and marble. We looked at some art work and we really loved it. It is absolutely incredible how fine and detailed the art work is. We bought two paintings after hard negotiations and we have authentic original certification too. Everything has a meaning to it in India and I guess that is why everything is so fascinating. The following are some of the meanings we have learnt:
Animal Symbol City Colour
Elephant Good luck Jaipur Pink
Camel Love Jaisalmer Yellow
Horse Power Udaipur White
20 October, 2006
We woke up at 5h45 to try to get to Udaipur by lunch time. It wasn’t too bad since we had the laptop out and we kept ourselves busy doing some admin work and researching our trip. It took us about five and a half hours to drive just under 300km. Udaipur was really pretty, probably the most beautiful place we had been to. There were lakes all around us and the hotels and restaurants all had great views. The city streets were narrow and windy and the shops were easily accessible. We chose good hotels to dine in and they had rooftop restaurants with magnificent views of the Lake Palace Hotel and the lake. The town is a white city as opposed to the Pink city of Jaipur. We spent the afternoon searching for good Barfi (sweets) and the whole city was decorated for Diwali. People were so happy and they were already starting the celebrations. It seems to be very similar to Christmas. At dinner the sky was filled with fireworks which were stunning especially since we were on the lake but I felt so sorry for the animals. Rich has a bit of a head cold and I have a small rash so we are not too healthy at the moment, but I guess it could be a lot worse here in India!
We woke up at 5h45 to try to get to Udaipur by lunch time. It wasn’t too bad since we had the laptop out and we kept ourselves busy doing some admin work and researching our trip. It took us about five and a half hours to drive just under 300km. Udaipur was really pretty, probably the most beautiful place we had been to. There were lakes all around us and the hotels and restaurants all had great views. The city streets were narrow and windy and the shops were easily accessible. We chose good hotels to dine in and they had rooftop restaurants with magnificent views of the Lake Palace Hotel and the lake. The town is a white city as opposed to the Pink city of Jaipur. We spent the afternoon searching for good Barfi (sweets) and the whole city was decorated for Diwali. People were so happy and they were already starting the celebrations. It seems to be very similar to Christmas. At dinner the sky was filled with fireworks which were stunning especially since we were on the lake but I felt so sorry for the animals. Rich has a bit of a head cold and I have a small rash so we are not too healthy at the moment, but I guess it could be a lot worse here in India!
19 October, 2006
We left for Pushkar which was not a very long drive considering some of the others we had to experience. We arrived after two and a half hours of driving on something that we would call a highway. It lasted most of the way and the drive wasn’t too bad. Pushkar is a very small town and it is situated around a lake (which they refer to as the holy lake). Our hotel had a swimming pool and loungers so we had a quick swim before going out into the mid afternoon heat. We walked around the town and it was the first time that we could actually relax and look at the shops without being harassed too much and no cars were permitted either. The town has a very laid-back feel and it seems to be the place where backpackers spend a couple of weeks. There is Hebrew writing all over the show and there are apparently a lot of Israelis who visit Pushkar. Alcohol is not allowed and one cannot find any meat/chicken or fish either, purely vegetarian. We met an Aussie girl who was traveling through India for a year- crazy thing – and she was telling us how beautiful the North is. But she was also telling us about the buses and that is when we realized we were lucky to have Suresh as our driver. Apparently there is no bus trip without a few people vomiting all over and without picking up a few non-paying friends along the way. That is if it leaves on time and if you come out alive after a 13 hour drive with people sitting on you. Apparently the trains are not that different and sometimes they are worse. A Kiwi couple told us that they were on a 23 hour train ride which left late and the cabin they were in didn’t serve any food and they couldn’t get off. Besides the fact that they had a cabin with an Indian family making a noise and phone calls so that they would leave- which is what they did. I somehow don’t think public transport is the way to go. Getting back to Pushkar we sat at the pool for a while and as we were leaving we met an American couple (hi Liza and Matt – hope you well and survived India) who were a bit down and out and ready to leave so they joined us for dinner. We went to a really chilled-out hotel and restaurant called Seventh Heaven and lounged on the couches whilst we shared our stories and dramas. We pulled them through the ‘bad spell’ that one goes through now and then in India (usually after a long unpleasant drive of about 8 hours). We all went to bed happy and ready for the challenges that lie ahead in this crazy but interesting country.
We left for Pushkar which was not a very long drive considering some of the others we had to experience. We arrived after two and a half hours of driving on something that we would call a highway. It lasted most of the way and the drive wasn’t too bad. Pushkar is a very small town and it is situated around a lake (which they refer to as the holy lake). Our hotel had a swimming pool and loungers so we had a quick swim before going out into the mid afternoon heat. We walked around the town and it was the first time that we could actually relax and look at the shops without being harassed too much and no cars were permitted either. The town has a very laid-back feel and it seems to be the place where backpackers spend a couple of weeks. There is Hebrew writing all over the show and there are apparently a lot of Israelis who visit Pushkar. Alcohol is not allowed and one cannot find any meat/chicken or fish either, purely vegetarian. We met an Aussie girl who was traveling through India for a year- crazy thing – and she was telling us how beautiful the North is. But she was also telling us about the buses and that is when we realized we were lucky to have Suresh as our driver. Apparently there is no bus trip without a few people vomiting all over and without picking up a few non-paying friends along the way. That is if it leaves on time and if you come out alive after a 13 hour drive with people sitting on you. Apparently the trains are not that different and sometimes they are worse. A Kiwi couple told us that they were on a 23 hour train ride which left late and the cabin they were in didn’t serve any food and they couldn’t get off. Besides the fact that they had a cabin with an Indian family making a noise and phone calls so that they would leave- which is what they did. I somehow don’t think public transport is the way to go. Getting back to Pushkar we sat at the pool for a while and as we were leaving we met an American couple (hi Liza and Matt – hope you well and survived India) who were a bit down and out and ready to leave so they joined us for dinner. We went to a really chilled-out hotel and restaurant called Seventh Heaven and lounged on the couches whilst we shared our stories and dramas. We pulled them through the ‘bad spell’ that one goes through now and then in India (usually after a long unpleasant drive of about 8 hours). We all went to bed happy and ready for the challenges that lie ahead in this crazy but interesting country.
18 October, 2006
We started our city tour of Jaipur at the Amber Fort – 11km from Jaipur city. We met our guide who was a bit pathetic to start with and we had a choice of either taking an elephant or walking up to the main entrance. We felt sorry for the elephants because it is too hot for them and their feet apparently suffer in such conditions. There is no water facility for them at the fort itself and the government hasn’t sorted this problem out. When we reached the entrance there were loads of monkeys all over. It was actually very interesting and it was set in the mountains so there was a lovely breeze. It is a pink sandstone fort palace with beautiful art work. We then drove past the Jal Mahal (water palace) which is closed to the public. We stopped off to see how they create the beautiful designs on material etc by using the block printing and we saw amazing bed covers and tablecloths. Unfortunately we didn’t buy any. We got to the Royal Gaitor and this was basically a cemetery for the past Kings. There are domes which mark the Royal cenotaphs. We then went to the Jantar Mantar which I found quite intriguing. There are many different structures all depicting the time zones and zodiacs. This place was where one could tell the time in the old days (time of day, year, month etc). There were beautiful sun dials and in fact the biggest sundial in the world. We ended the tour with Hawa Mahal – a gorgeous building where the Royal ladies could escape to and watch the life of the city and its processions. Walking in the streets was just too hectic for us and not pleasant so we got Suresh to take us to a sweet shop recommended by the book and we had our first taste of Barfi (Indian sweet). It is a fudge-like sweet made from milk and it is very sweet but Rich fell in love with it instantaneously. Our driver said he has never had a request for this before! We had dinner at a lovely restaurant- we had to wait for a table – and then called it a night.
We started our city tour of Jaipur at the Amber Fort – 11km from Jaipur city. We met our guide who was a bit pathetic to start with and we had a choice of either taking an elephant or walking up to the main entrance. We felt sorry for the elephants because it is too hot for them and their feet apparently suffer in such conditions. There is no water facility for them at the fort itself and the government hasn’t sorted this problem out. When we reached the entrance there were loads of monkeys all over. It was actually very interesting and it was set in the mountains so there was a lovely breeze. It is a pink sandstone fort palace with beautiful art work. We then drove past the Jal Mahal (water palace) which is closed to the public. We stopped off to see how they create the beautiful designs on material etc by using the block printing and we saw amazing bed covers and tablecloths. Unfortunately we didn’t buy any. We got to the Royal Gaitor and this was basically a cemetery for the past Kings. There are domes which mark the Royal cenotaphs. We then went to the Jantar Mantar which I found quite intriguing. There are many different structures all depicting the time zones and zodiacs. This place was where one could tell the time in the old days (time of day, year, month etc). There were beautiful sun dials and in fact the biggest sundial in the world. We ended the tour with Hawa Mahal – a gorgeous building where the Royal ladies could escape to and watch the life of the city and its processions. Walking in the streets was just too hectic for us and not pleasant so we got Suresh to take us to a sweet shop recommended by the book and we had our first taste of Barfi (Indian sweet). It is a fudge-like sweet made from milk and it is very sweet but Rich fell in love with it instantaneously. Our driver said he has never had a request for this before! We had dinner at a lovely restaurant- we had to wait for a table – and then called it a night.
17 October, 2006
We had to maximize our opportunities so before we left for Jaipur we went on our last early morning game drive. This time we had a shocking guide but an absolutely crazy driver who really made the trip fun. There was a tiger roaming around very near the entry gate and we were trying to follow him most of the time. We saw the tiger from far and he was walking in the dense vegetation so we couldn’t really take any clear pictures this time around. I think we were lucky to see the tiger at all actually.
It was a really long game drive and we got back to the hotel later than we expected to. We had a quick breakfast and got on the road to Jaipur (Rajasthan’s capital city). The drive was not pleasant but it was a lot better than the previous one. It took us about four hours to drive about 200km.
Our hotel was beautiful and very comfortable. We went for a very late lunch and walked around the local bazaar a little which was not a brilliant idea. It was hectic and the cars, bikes and rickshaws almost run you over. The hooting and chaos was just too much. One is so busy watching one’s back and trying not to get killed, that one cannot even look at the shops properly. Nothing enjoyable about that! We got back to the hotel, skipped dinner and tried to have an early night.
We had to maximize our opportunities so before we left for Jaipur we went on our last early morning game drive. This time we had a shocking guide but an absolutely crazy driver who really made the trip fun. There was a tiger roaming around very near the entry gate and we were trying to follow him most of the time. We saw the tiger from far and he was walking in the dense vegetation so we couldn’t really take any clear pictures this time around. I think we were lucky to see the tiger at all actually.
It was a really long game drive and we got back to the hotel later than we expected to. We had a quick breakfast and got on the road to Jaipur (Rajasthan’s capital city). The drive was not pleasant but it was a lot better than the previous one. It took us about four hours to drive about 200km.
Our hotel was beautiful and very comfortable. We went for a very late lunch and walked around the local bazaar a little which was not a brilliant idea. It was hectic and the cars, bikes and rickshaws almost run you over. The hooting and chaos was just too much. One is so busy watching one’s back and trying not to get killed, that one cannot even look at the shops properly. Nothing enjoyable about that! We got back to the hotel, skipped dinner and tried to have an early night.
Saturday, October 21, 2006
16 October, 2006
We woke up at 5:30am ready for our game drive in a jeep. There was another couple from Sweden who joined us. The guide was not very good and we didn’t see many animals but it was quite fun. We saw jackal, sambal deer, spotted deer, monkeys, parakeets and a mongoose. We got back to the hotel and there was nothing to do which was wonderful because we finally had time for ourselves and we relaxed at the pool. We decided to try the canter which is the bigger vehicle/land drover for our second game drive. It took a while picking everyone up from the various hotels but this time our guide was very good. There were loads of kids on our vehicle so we really thought we had no chance of spotting anything, let alone a tiger. BUT, we actually saw a tiger! It was absolutely incredible and he walked right passed our vehicle an arms length away. His belly was swinging as he walked and it was slightly wet underneath. He was so beautiful and he just strolled right passed and disappeared into the thick grass where he found his mate. He gave two big roars/growls and it was just an amazing experience. We got back to the hotel and went next door after a cold shower to have a beer with an Aussie couple and another couple from Dubai. We all shared our own experiences of this interesting country.
We woke up at 5:30am ready for our game drive in a jeep. There was another couple from Sweden who joined us. The guide was not very good and we didn’t see many animals but it was quite fun. We saw jackal, sambal deer, spotted deer, monkeys, parakeets and a mongoose. We got back to the hotel and there was nothing to do which was wonderful because we finally had time for ourselves and we relaxed at the pool. We decided to try the canter which is the bigger vehicle/land drover for our second game drive. It took a while picking everyone up from the various hotels but this time our guide was very good. There were loads of kids on our vehicle so we really thought we had no chance of spotting anything, let alone a tiger. BUT, we actually saw a tiger! It was absolutely incredible and he walked right passed our vehicle an arms length away. His belly was swinging as he walked and it was slightly wet underneath. He was so beautiful and he just strolled right passed and disappeared into the thick grass where he found his mate. He gave two big roars/growls and it was just an amazing experience. We got back to the hotel and went next door after a cold shower to have a beer with an Aussie couple and another couple from Dubai. We all shared our own experiences of this interesting country.
15 October, 2006
We left Agra and stopped at Fatehpur Sikri which was also an old city with palaces and mosques, similar to Agra fort. We got into the car without any idea that we would stay in it for another 8 hours. It was not only a long drive to our next stop; which was Ranthambhore National Park; but the road was possibly the worst road we had seen in our entire lives. We had 2 full hours on this particular road. It was a single lane for us and the oncoming traffic and on either side was a dirt road. The road itself was hardly a road more like a bit of tar with potholes and bumps. Besides all the animals and usual paraphernalia on the road I guess it was ok. Rich did not stop moaning and he was a bit car sick too. I don’t know how we managed but we did and our poor driver did such a good job considering what he had to deal with. It was like playing ‘chicken’. Whoever didn’t flinch was the one who stayed on the road but most of the time the mightier won. We got to Ranthambhore in the dark, exhausted and really angry because they didn’t tell us about this drive! We changed rooms a few times and then found out there was no hot water until the 20th October. Half of the lights didn’t work and the toilet didn’t really flush but otherwise all was fine. We got to bed early.
We left Agra and stopped at Fatehpur Sikri which was also an old city with palaces and mosques, similar to Agra fort. We got into the car without any idea that we would stay in it for another 8 hours. It was not only a long drive to our next stop; which was Ranthambhore National Park; but the road was possibly the worst road we had seen in our entire lives. We had 2 full hours on this particular road. It was a single lane for us and the oncoming traffic and on either side was a dirt road. The road itself was hardly a road more like a bit of tar with potholes and bumps. Besides all the animals and usual paraphernalia on the road I guess it was ok. Rich did not stop moaning and he was a bit car sick too. I don’t know how we managed but we did and our poor driver did such a good job considering what he had to deal with. It was like playing ‘chicken’. Whoever didn’t flinch was the one who stayed on the road but most of the time the mightier won. We got to Ranthambhore in the dark, exhausted and really angry because they didn’t tell us about this drive! We changed rooms a few times and then found out there was no hot water until the 20th October. Half of the lights didn’t work and the toilet didn’t really flush but otherwise all was fine. We got to bed early.
14 October, 2006
Our first stop was the Taj Mahal. Our complimentary guide Ariv was waiting for us with Suresh, our driver. The Taj was really spectacular and Ariv was excellent. He explained everything we possibly needed to know about the Taj Mahal and the history but best of all he was a brilliant photographer. We had some fab shots taken. The marble carvings, artwork all from the gem stones and the symmetry was just fascinating. We then left with apprehension to go to the Agra fort. But before we reached the fort we stopped (obviously) at a marble emporium. It was interesting to see how the stones are inlaid into the marble and the same people working at the factory do the renovations for the Taj Mahal when it needs repair. They are very talented and spend hours doing fine intricate work which is very hard on their hands and fingers. We didn’t buy anything and moved on to the fort which was also very enjoyable. The fort is a huge red sandstone complex with beautiful views of the Taj, lots of palaces and mosques. I decided it was enough sight seeing and went for an Ayuverdic massage whilst Rich was on the internet. The guy who gave me the massage was very strong and I didn’t think that I would come out alive. It felt as if I was on a grinding machine and slowly, slowly I was being ground to a pulp. My muscles sure felt it! The oils were amazing and my skin felt really good. Suresh then came to fetch me and I joined Richard at the internet café. We then went for a chocolate sundae at McDonalds. Yes, we actually hadn’t had ice-cream since Europe so we were so excited. We had a great dinner and walked around a night bazaar for a short while before heading back to the hotel for bed.
Our first stop was the Taj Mahal. Our complimentary guide Ariv was waiting for us with Suresh, our driver. The Taj was really spectacular and Ariv was excellent. He explained everything we possibly needed to know about the Taj Mahal and the history but best of all he was a brilliant photographer. We had some fab shots taken. The marble carvings, artwork all from the gem stones and the symmetry was just fascinating. We then left with apprehension to go to the Agra fort. But before we reached the fort we stopped (obviously) at a marble emporium. It was interesting to see how the stones are inlaid into the marble and the same people working at the factory do the renovations for the Taj Mahal when it needs repair. They are very talented and spend hours doing fine intricate work which is very hard on their hands and fingers. We didn’t buy anything and moved on to the fort which was also very enjoyable. The fort is a huge red sandstone complex with beautiful views of the Taj, lots of palaces and mosques. I decided it was enough sight seeing and went for an Ayuverdic massage whilst Rich was on the internet. The guy who gave me the massage was very strong and I didn’t think that I would come out alive. It felt as if I was on a grinding machine and slowly, slowly I was being ground to a pulp. My muscles sure felt it! The oils were amazing and my skin felt really good. Suresh then came to fetch me and I joined Richard at the internet café. We then went for a chocolate sundae at McDonalds. Yes, we actually hadn’t had ice-cream since Europe so we were so excited. We had a great dinner and walked around a night bazaar for a short while before heading back to the hotel for bed.
Friday, October 20, 2006
13 October, 2006
Today we left Kashmir and the weather had changed. It was really cold and we realized how lucky we had been. It was not an easy process leaving Kashmir due to their security procedures. We had no idea that it would be so stressful and before we even reached the airport there were three checkpoints with luggage scanners. We had to get out the car each time with the luggage and then back in the car to the next point. The last point at the airport was worse because they wanted to check every charger we had and made sure that there were no batteries left in anything. We finally reached check-in and we were still searched their. I am not sure how but we did get on the actual airplane eventually. The flight was quicker than the whole airport experience and our driver was waiting for us at the Delhi airport. We were now on our way to Agra which they told us would take about three and a half hours but it took us five hours (and this was only a 195 km drive). We got to Agra really tired from a long day of travels, had a quick dinner and then got to bed looking forward to seeing the Taj Mahal the next day. The road was quite an experience and our driver is really good. We share the roads with camels, cows, dogs, other cars, trucks, rickshaws; and these fellow road users come towards you from all directions. At night half of the cars and cycles and trucks don’t have lights besides the fact that there is only one lane most of the way. We were in for a fortnight of some hectic driving.
Today we left Kashmir and the weather had changed. It was really cold and we realized how lucky we had been. It was not an easy process leaving Kashmir due to their security procedures. We had no idea that it would be so stressful and before we even reached the airport there were three checkpoints with luggage scanners. We had to get out the car each time with the luggage and then back in the car to the next point. The last point at the airport was worse because they wanted to check every charger we had and made sure that there were no batteries left in anything. We finally reached check-in and we were still searched their. I am not sure how but we did get on the actual airplane eventually. The flight was quicker than the whole airport experience and our driver was waiting for us at the Delhi airport. We were now on our way to Agra which they told us would take about three and a half hours but it took us five hours (and this was only a 195 km drive). We got to Agra really tired from a long day of travels, had a quick dinner and then got to bed looking forward to seeing the Taj Mahal the next day. The road was quite an experience and our driver is really good. We share the roads with camels, cows, dogs, other cars, trucks, rickshaws; and these fellow road users come towards you from all directions. At night half of the cars and cycles and trucks don’t have lights besides the fact that there is only one lane most of the way. We were in for a fortnight of some hectic driving.
12 October, 2006
We woke up early and left for the boathouse in Srinagar. We said goodbye to the gypsies and gave them a tip but they showed no appreciation which upset us quite a bit. We had brilliant showers cleaning every orifice in the body and Rich did some of our filthy washing. Showkut organized a great hot lunch for us, which was a change from the boiled egg, coconut biscuit and boiled potato and carrot. We asked to be taken to the paper machee factory again and we bought an elephant and then we even purchased a Kashmir carpet. We hope that the goods arrive in SA?! It was quite exciting but we knew that no matter how much we negotiated we were still getting ripped off. I guess one only visits Kashmir once in a lifetime! Or perhaps twice?
It was really an amazing place and the boathouse was very, very special but we got taken for a ride and that is not a boat ride I am talking about.
We woke up early and left for the boathouse in Srinagar. We said goodbye to the gypsies and gave them a tip but they showed no appreciation which upset us quite a bit. We had brilliant showers cleaning every orifice in the body and Rich did some of our filthy washing. Showkut organized a great hot lunch for us, which was a change from the boiled egg, coconut biscuit and boiled potato and carrot. We asked to be taken to the paper machee factory again and we bought an elephant and then we even purchased a Kashmir carpet. We hope that the goods arrive in SA?! It was quite exciting but we knew that no matter how much we negotiated we were still getting ripped off. I guess one only visits Kashmir once in a lifetime! Or perhaps twice?
It was really an amazing place and the boathouse was very, very special but we got taken for a ride and that is not a boat ride I am talking about.
11 October, 2006
We woke up to a beautiful sunny day but unfortunately a bit of hip and back pain. We lay in the sun and read being really lazy for a few hours whilst the gypsies went back to the lakes to catch more trout. Our trek was fairly easy to start and then we would descend down the mountain. Remembering the first day and the steep climb we were not looking forward to going down. It was really dodgy and dangerous and the path was quite slippery. I don’t know how the horses managed but somehow they did. One picks up momentum because it is so steep and the horses go really fast and then the gypsies have to shout at them so that they put on their ‘brakes’. It was very strenuous on the legs and it took us three and a half hours of solid walking to reach the river. We felt so dirty and tired and the driver was waiting for us as per arrangement in case we didn’t want to camp at the river the last night. Well, at that stage the boathouse was looking like a good option but we decided to stay and have one more night in the foothills by the river in the Kashmir Valley. It wasn’t so cold here but there was definitely a chill in the air. Our tent was right on the river which was very pretty and it was gushing by so fast and furiously. We were surrounded by heeps of goat, cow and horse poo and it was all pretty much quite dirty. Our sleeping bags were not feeling very clean and the blankets really smelt of the horses by now. We had a great fish and chips dinner again and we made a campfire and sat singing songs and laughing under the stars. We were very comfortable and slept well – finally. It was quite sad that our trekking was over but we were looking forward to a shower and a toilet.
We woke up to a beautiful sunny day but unfortunately a bit of hip and back pain. We lay in the sun and read being really lazy for a few hours whilst the gypsies went back to the lakes to catch more trout. Our trek was fairly easy to start and then we would descend down the mountain. Remembering the first day and the steep climb we were not looking forward to going down. It was really dodgy and dangerous and the path was quite slippery. I don’t know how the horses managed but somehow they did. One picks up momentum because it is so steep and the horses go really fast and then the gypsies have to shout at them so that they put on their ‘brakes’. It was very strenuous on the legs and it took us three and a half hours of solid walking to reach the river. We felt so dirty and tired and the driver was waiting for us as per arrangement in case we didn’t want to camp at the river the last night. Well, at that stage the boathouse was looking like a good option but we decided to stay and have one more night in the foothills by the river in the Kashmir Valley. It wasn’t so cold here but there was definitely a chill in the air. Our tent was right on the river which was very pretty and it was gushing by so fast and furiously. We were surrounded by heeps of goat, cow and horse poo and it was all pretty much quite dirty. Our sleeping bags were not feeling very clean and the blankets really smelt of the horses by now. We had a great fish and chips dinner again and we made a campfire and sat singing songs and laughing under the stars. We were very comfortable and slept well – finally. It was quite sad that our trekking was over but we were looking forward to a shower and a toilet.
10 October, 2006
We woke up to the fresh air and the beautiful lake and chef Goolam was cooking up some omelettes and French toast. The air was not warm and there were a few clouds lurking around. The weather was not looking prosperous and we got our rain jackets out – just in case. We walked to another lake and it was very pretty. The mountains around were covered with glaciers and there were plenty of trout in the lakes. Guess what we had for dinner? We spent the day with Showkut and a gypsy/horseman fishing along the rivers and streams. Every so often we would stop and try and fish. Rich was not very successful but I eventually caught a small trout and made sure that the horseman quickly released it back into the water. We bolder-hopped for a few hours and finally made our way back to the next campsite. The weather turned for the better and by the time we got to our next base it was clear skies. We had descended a bit and were feeling much better. However, we were so tired and I think we got to bed at 19h30. Before we got to bed we had an amazing dinner of fresh caught fish and chips. The gypsies caught loads of trout during the day. In our tent we had a kerosene lamp since it was impossible to use our tiny borrowed torch, and before we knew it there was a thick haze covering the tent. We realized that the lamp had almost gassed us and it absolutely stunk. We zipped the tent wide open and got rid of the lamp quickly. It was much warmer but I was sleeping in a ditch on a 35 degree slope so it was not a good night’s sleep either.
We woke up to the fresh air and the beautiful lake and chef Goolam was cooking up some omelettes and French toast. The air was not warm and there were a few clouds lurking around. The weather was not looking prosperous and we got our rain jackets out – just in case. We walked to another lake and it was very pretty. The mountains around were covered with glaciers and there were plenty of trout in the lakes. Guess what we had for dinner? We spent the day with Showkut and a gypsy/horseman fishing along the rivers and streams. Every so often we would stop and try and fish. Rich was not very successful but I eventually caught a small trout and made sure that the horseman quickly released it back into the water. We bolder-hopped for a few hours and finally made our way back to the next campsite. The weather turned for the better and by the time we got to our next base it was clear skies. We had descended a bit and were feeling much better. However, we were so tired and I think we got to bed at 19h30. Before we got to bed we had an amazing dinner of fresh caught fish and chips. The gypsies caught loads of trout during the day. In our tent we had a kerosene lamp since it was impossible to use our tiny borrowed torch, and before we knew it there was a thick haze covering the tent. We realized that the lamp had almost gassed us and it absolutely stunk. We zipped the tent wide open and got rid of the lamp quickly. It was much warmer but I was sleeping in a ditch on a 35 degree slope so it was not a good night’s sleep either.
9 October, 2006
We woke up to the clean fresh mountain air and it was so quiet. The horses were eating, the birds were chirping (more like crows), and we had a great breakfast on our little pedestal (rock). The weather was lovely and warm, especially since we were quite high up. The hike today was very enjoyable. We had uphills and downhills and it was a fairly easy day of trekking. We arrived at Gangbal Lake in the afternoon where we would spend the night. The gypsies left us and took their horses back to another camp where there was a gypsy house. They would be back in the morning to fetch us. Our tent was facing the lake and we were under Harmok Mountain which is covered in snow. It was warm until the sun set and then it got quite chilly. Our guide Showkut told us that normally at this time of year they don’t camp at the lake because it is too cold. But, we were lucky with the weather and it was possible. Rich had a headache and I had no appetite. I think we were struggling with the altitude. Nobody could quite tell us how high we were but they estimated about 4500m. The air did feel thin and we did feel short of breath with every step. Perhaps we were REALLY unfit?!
We couldn’t sleep again and I was freezing cold. We were so spoilt with 4 blankets over our sleeping bags and hot water bottles, but it was still so cold and uncomfortable. We couldn’t get the bedding arrangements right and we didn’t feel very comfortable getting into some strange sleeping bag and blankets that smelt hectically of horses.
We woke up to the clean fresh mountain air and it was so quiet. The horses were eating, the birds were chirping (more like crows), and we had a great breakfast on our little pedestal (rock). The weather was lovely and warm, especially since we were quite high up. The hike today was very enjoyable. We had uphills and downhills and it was a fairly easy day of trekking. We arrived at Gangbal Lake in the afternoon where we would spend the night. The gypsies left us and took their horses back to another camp where there was a gypsy house. They would be back in the morning to fetch us. Our tent was facing the lake and we were under Harmok Mountain which is covered in snow. It was warm until the sun set and then it got quite chilly. Our guide Showkut told us that normally at this time of year they don’t camp at the lake because it is too cold. But, we were lucky with the weather and it was possible. Rich had a headache and I had no appetite. I think we were struggling with the altitude. Nobody could quite tell us how high we were but they estimated about 4500m. The air did feel thin and we did feel short of breath with every step. Perhaps we were REALLY unfit?!
We couldn’t sleep again and I was freezing cold. We were so spoilt with 4 blankets over our sleeping bags and hot water bottles, but it was still so cold and uncomfortable. We couldn’t get the bedding arrangements right and we didn’t feel very comfortable getting into some strange sleeping bag and blankets that smelt hectically of horses.
8 October, 2006
We left for our trekking expedition a little apprehensive. We drove about 2 hours until we reached the foothills of the Himalayas and the gypsy villages. We passed rice fields, walnut trees, mulberry trees and beautiful mountains on the way. The luggage and the food etc. was packed onto the horses and we started the trek in Naranag. It was very steep the whole way up and there was absolutely no downhill at any stage. We climbed high up through the forest full of pine trees and now and then we jumped on a horse for a while. The air was very thin and we were not acclimatized at all. It was really tough but we finally reached the campsite – exhausted. I felt really sorry for the horses who had to lug our stuff up and they were loaded with heavy blankets and the rest. One of the horses actually fell on the way up and that was not pleasant to see. He was alright but I would have preferred it if the gypsies carried all the stuff- quite honestly! Anyway, we were right in the mountains and our tent was perched above a gypsy house with magnificent views. It was fairly cold and the sun set quite early. Rich was a bit nervous about the whole camping thing- it is not quite his style. Chef Goolam was cooking up a storm in the kitchen (tent) and it was nice and warm their. We had a great dinner but unfortunately Rich was struggling to sit, it was a bit cramped and I think that unless you are a guy who does yoga, it is not easy sitting and eating in the confined space. We managed somehow and got to bed. Well, tossing and turning and not much sleep was had the first night.
We left for our trekking expedition a little apprehensive. We drove about 2 hours until we reached the foothills of the Himalayas and the gypsy villages. We passed rice fields, walnut trees, mulberry trees and beautiful mountains on the way. The luggage and the food etc. was packed onto the horses and we started the trek in Naranag. It was very steep the whole way up and there was absolutely no downhill at any stage. We climbed high up through the forest full of pine trees and now and then we jumped on a horse for a while. The air was very thin and we were not acclimatized at all. It was really tough but we finally reached the campsite – exhausted. I felt really sorry for the horses who had to lug our stuff up and they were loaded with heavy blankets and the rest. One of the horses actually fell on the way up and that was not pleasant to see. He was alright but I would have preferred it if the gypsies carried all the stuff- quite honestly! Anyway, we were right in the mountains and our tent was perched above a gypsy house with magnificent views. It was fairly cold and the sun set quite early. Rich was a bit nervous about the whole camping thing- it is not quite his style. Chef Goolam was cooking up a storm in the kitchen (tent) and it was nice and warm their. We had a great dinner but unfortunately Rich was struggling to sit, it was a bit cramped and I think that unless you are a guy who does yoga, it is not easy sitting and eating in the confined space. We managed somehow and got to bed. Well, tossing and turning and not much sleep was had the first night.
7 October, 2006
We had a driver today and he drove us around the city of Kashmir. It is quite scary since there are army soldiers everywhere and it feels like you are in the middle of a war zone. I guess you are in a way? We visited the Mughal Gardens which were very pretty and had lunch on the lawns. They took us to see how the authentic Kashmir carpets are made which was very interesting and we were very tempted to buy but we didn’t. We got back to the boathouse and we relaxed on the deck for a few hours. It was really pretty and as the sun set there was a massive wave of chanting and prayer coming from the mosques echoing across the lake. This was the signal for the breaking of the fast for the day. It went on for hours, or what felt like hours. The prayers are very loud, they even use a loudspeaker and if one listens carefully it sounds like a busy market from far away. The nights get quite cold in Kashmir but that doesn’t stop the salesman from rowing to our boathouse to try and squeeze in a sale after dinner!
We had a driver today and he drove us around the city of Kashmir. It is quite scary since there are army soldiers everywhere and it feels like you are in the middle of a war zone. I guess you are in a way? We visited the Mughal Gardens which were very pretty and had lunch on the lawns. They took us to see how the authentic Kashmir carpets are made which was very interesting and we were very tempted to buy but we didn’t. We got back to the boathouse and we relaxed on the deck for a few hours. It was really pretty and as the sun set there was a massive wave of chanting and prayer coming from the mosques echoing across the lake. This was the signal for the breaking of the fast for the day. It went on for hours, or what felt like hours. The prayers are very loud, they even use a loudspeaker and if one listens carefully it sounds like a busy market from far away. The nights get quite cold in Kashmir but that doesn’t stop the salesman from rowing to our boathouse to try and squeeze in a sale after dinner!
6 October, 2006
Waking up at 5h45 is not our forte. We were running late for the airport (as usual) and check-in was chaotic. We arrived in Kashmir really quickly (very short flight), and Rami was waiting for us at the airport. We drove through the city and it was like a different world compared to Delhi, except for the fact that there were army soldiers with huge rifles everywhere. The driving was the same madness and lunacy. We drove along the lake and stopped by the roadside only to enter into a beautifully decorated boat that took us to the boathouse. The sun was shining and it was so surreal. When we arrived at the Boathouse it was so different. We had a whole house to ourselves (lounge, dining room), and someone at our beck and call all the time. We were given Kashmir tea and some dropped scones. Then things got a bit tense because we had to negotiate a price for our itinerary in Kashmir. This was not an easy task! At all!
To cut a long story short we got taken for what we call the Kashmir Boathouse scam! We were trapped on a boathouse with no means of getting anywhere or doing anything unless we went with their program. Anyway, we left on a tour of the lake and it was so beautiful and peaceful. The mountains were all around us and we rowed along the lake the entire afternoon with our guide Showkut and Mohammed. We stopped at a mosque and it was Ramadan and a Friday. It was absolutely insane and people were pushing and shoving and staring at me as if I was some alien that had just landed from Mars. Jokes aside I have never seen people stare like this before- anywhere in the world. We left the chaos and visited a paper machee factory with the most amazing stuff and then a place for pashminas- all on the lake. After dinner I bought a pendant. It is a Kashmir rock, or so they say, but it is pretty anyway. We were very ready for bed.
Waking up at 5h45 is not our forte. We were running late for the airport (as usual) and check-in was chaotic. We arrived in Kashmir really quickly (very short flight), and Rami was waiting for us at the airport. We drove through the city and it was like a different world compared to Delhi, except for the fact that there were army soldiers with huge rifles everywhere. The driving was the same madness and lunacy. We drove along the lake and stopped by the roadside only to enter into a beautifully decorated boat that took us to the boathouse. The sun was shining and it was so surreal. When we arrived at the Boathouse it was so different. We had a whole house to ourselves (lounge, dining room), and someone at our beck and call all the time. We were given Kashmir tea and some dropped scones. Then things got a bit tense because we had to negotiate a price for our itinerary in Kashmir. This was not an easy task! At all!
To cut a long story short we got taken for what we call the Kashmir Boathouse scam! We were trapped on a boathouse with no means of getting anywhere or doing anything unless we went with their program. Anyway, we left on a tour of the lake and it was so beautiful and peaceful. The mountains were all around us and we rowed along the lake the entire afternoon with our guide Showkut and Mohammed. We stopped at a mosque and it was Ramadan and a Friday. It was absolutely insane and people were pushing and shoving and staring at me as if I was some alien that had just landed from Mars. Jokes aside I have never seen people stare like this before- anywhere in the world. We left the chaos and visited a paper machee factory with the most amazing stuff and then a place for pashminas- all on the lake. After dinner I bought a pendant. It is a Kashmir rock, or so they say, but it is pretty anyway. We were very ready for bed.
5 October, 2006
We had a very busy morning trying to arrange our travel plans for India. However, the one company convinced us to do a Delhi tour with them complimentary for the day. So we spent the rest of the day visiting the Red Fort, Jama Masjid (which we didn’t attempt to go near because of the crowds- it is the largest mosque in India), Humayans’ Tomb, Qutab Minar and finally driving passed India Gate. It was very hot and we were very jet lagged. Everything was a bit of a haze and we were pressured for time because we wanted to leave the following day on our big Indian expedition. We had to decide between the agencies and I guess at the time we thought that having everything organized was the way to go. So, we got back to the offices and confirmed arrangements. However, by 18h30 in the evening we were on our way to Kashmir- trekking. It was so unexpected and ‘spur of the moment’. We did some last minute shopping, had dinner and packed our things. It was two long days in Delhi but they were actually really enjoyable. The hustle and bustle is quite a challenge but we were actually starting to enjoy it- in a strange way. Even our hotel road wasn’t too bad in the end, except for the bathroom.
We had a very busy morning trying to arrange our travel plans for India. However, the one company convinced us to do a Delhi tour with them complimentary for the day. So we spent the rest of the day visiting the Red Fort, Jama Masjid (which we didn’t attempt to go near because of the crowds- it is the largest mosque in India), Humayans’ Tomb, Qutab Minar and finally driving passed India Gate. It was very hot and we were very jet lagged. Everything was a bit of a haze and we were pressured for time because we wanted to leave the following day on our big Indian expedition. We had to decide between the agencies and I guess at the time we thought that having everything organized was the way to go. So, we got back to the offices and confirmed arrangements. However, by 18h30 in the evening we were on our way to Kashmir- trekking. It was so unexpected and ‘spur of the moment’. We did some last minute shopping, had dinner and packed our things. It was two long days in Delhi but they were actually really enjoyable. The hustle and bustle is quite a challenge but we were actually starting to enjoy it- in a strange way. Even our hotel road wasn’t too bad in the end, except for the bathroom.
4 October, 2006
The flight from Munich to Delhi was awful and we hardly slept. Dinner was served so late and breakfast so early, Samoosas for breakfast – I mean really!
We arrived safely and our driver was waiting for us at the airport. At first the drive wasn’t too bad but then… the culture shock hit. Even though we were so prepared. Our driver stopped in the most chaotic, dirty, scary road and that was apparently the hotel. Well, I was a bit nervous to get out the car at first, but we quickly slipped into the air-conditioned hotel door and I guess that felt a bit safer. We got to the room and we searched for the shower in the bathroom. Eventually, once Rich had already left to go and enquire about it, I found the shower head in the middle of the wall. We then had to ask for toilet paper and towels. We decided we needed to sleep before we head out into the big city. Luckily our room had no windows so it was pitch dark- very suitable for a morning snooze. We got up at lunch time and decided to walk to Connaught Place. This is the main shopping area in Delhi and our walk from the hotel was not far. The only inconvenience was that we had to walk passed the train station which was not very pleasant to say the least. Besides walking passed cows, monkeys, bodies and stray dogs, we had to weave in between the cars, trucks, motorbikes, rickshaws, bicycles and tricycles that almost kill you along the way. Otherwise it is a fairly easy walk. We had some lunch, walked around a bit trying to get familiar with this new, chaotic country; and then we decided to get the rickshaw back to the hotel. By night time, we had already got three different tour operators involved with our travels.
The flight from Munich to Delhi was awful and we hardly slept. Dinner was served so late and breakfast so early, Samoosas for breakfast – I mean really!
We arrived safely and our driver was waiting for us at the airport. At first the drive wasn’t too bad but then… the culture shock hit. Even though we were so prepared. Our driver stopped in the most chaotic, dirty, scary road and that was apparently the hotel. Well, I was a bit nervous to get out the car at first, but we quickly slipped into the air-conditioned hotel door and I guess that felt a bit safer. We got to the room and we searched for the shower in the bathroom. Eventually, once Rich had already left to go and enquire about it, I found the shower head in the middle of the wall. We then had to ask for toilet paper and towels. We decided we needed to sleep before we head out into the big city. Luckily our room had no windows so it was pitch dark- very suitable for a morning snooze. We got up at lunch time and decided to walk to Connaught Place. This is the main shopping area in Delhi and our walk from the hotel was not far. The only inconvenience was that we had to walk passed the train station which was not very pleasant to say the least. Besides walking passed cows, monkeys, bodies and stray dogs, we had to weave in between the cars, trucks, motorbikes, rickshaws, bicycles and tricycles that almost kill you along the way. Otherwise it is a fairly easy walk. We had some lunch, walked around a bit trying to get familiar with this new, chaotic country; and then we decided to get the rickshaw back to the hotel. By night time, we had already got three different tour operators involved with our travels.
