Thursday, November 30, 2006

 



29 November, 2006

Today is the day we leave Japan and Rich is upset because he will not have to bow anymore. We love the Japanese culture and the people and we are sad to be leaving Japan. We checked out of our Ryokan with strict rules about the shoes. Slippers for the room, the bathroom and the eating area are all different. When one is in a rush to catch a train it can get a bit irritating… We caught a train back to Nagoya and from there to Tokyo and then from Tokyo to Narita airport. About 6 hours of traveling all in all and we finally reached the business class lounge (yes we were traveling business class – finally some luxury awaited us). We relaxed and ate and caught up on e-mails. It felt good to be schmoozing it again in luxury. Our flight left at 18h30 and we were on business class getting a bit drunk and enjoying a bit of ‘upper class’ treatment. Our famous Japanese drink called Plum soda went down very well. A new experience awaits us in Vietnam. Back to 3rd world, but very exciting (and a whole lot cheaper than Japan).



 



28 November, 2006

We had 12 hours of sleep and I think even that wasn’t enough. We walked around the morning market and it wasn’t very busy. There were a few stalls with fresh veg and pickles and the best of all was fresh marshmallows. We made our way to the Hida Folk Village, only ten minutes away from the town and it was very interesting. There were many farmhouses from the 1700’s resembling the typical way of life and traditional crafts. We walked around the village inspecting every house and we made our way to the teddy bear shop. This is where we found a delicious pizza for lunch and we continued on our journey through the path of Literature. It was very beautiful walking through the fields with views of the Japanese Alps and we arrived at the Mountain view Museum. After meandering through the village we arrived back in the town and found our way to the museum for the floats. This exhibition hall houses the four floats that are used in the festival time (Matsuri festival) twice a year. This festival is regarded as one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan. The floats are changed in the exhibition hall 3 times a year. They are pulled through the streets and are lit up at night. This festival began three hundred years ago as a village ceremony. Four of the floats have marionettes representing G-ds. They are manipulated by puppeteers. The floats are gorgeous with intricate designs of gold and lacquer. After the exhibition hall we passed through the shrine where the festival begins and then we visited the Nikko Kan, a miniature of the real Nikko – Toshugu near Tokyo. It had beautiful structures, pagodas and shrines and the light is simulated to create dawn and dusk. We got back to our ‘Rickshaw Inn’ and I gave Rich his Vietnam haircut. We tried to find an ATM that worked since we had no Japanese money left and we didn’t want to be left with the Yen. We didn’t draw any money and had sushi for dinner- the only restaurant that accepted our credit card!

 



27 November, 2006

We left on another train for Hida Takayama (as Rich calls it Tommy Takayama). We had to catch a train from Osaka to Nagoya and from there we connected to Takayama. The last train journey was incredible, we passed through the mountains with magnificent views and scenery all along the way. We followed the river delta and the water was a beautiful shade of green. Takayama is in the district of Hida in the province of Honshu. When we arrived we checked in to our Ryokan (Japanese style hotel) and headed out to the city. A thriving metropolis- NOT- and it was so quaint and peaceful. It started to drizzle but that in fact added to the atmosphere. We walked along the old merchant houses and shops. They were so quaint and authentic and Rich enjoyed all the free tastings. I think we have tasted every single sweet and biscuit in Japan. They are so fascinating in shape, colour and size and each box is so unique looking. The weather wasn’t too bad and the lady at our hotel said they were expecting the first snow this weekend. We stopped at a stall and had fresh beef skewers (made from Hida beef) which is special to this region. We admired all the crafts, lacquerware, sake wine shops and Japanese sandals. The city has managed to retain its traditional charm and a big festival is held twice a year with floats and marionettes that perform tricks. The town is known for its woodworks and carvings and sarubobo (monkey babies) - they have featureless faces. We walked in the mountains and the parks amongst the beautiful trees and plants and the ground was like a red blanket- full of amazing coloured leaves. We strolled in the drizzle and made it back before dark. We got back to our room and passed out from exhaustion. We were asleep by 20h00 (without dinner).

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

 



26 November, 2006

We woke up early again and got to Daryl’s hotel for breakfast. We had a good meal to start our day off and we were on our way to Hiroshima. It isn’t easy being on vacation! Go Go Go! It took one and a half hours from Osaka to Hiroshima on the Shinkansen (fast train) and we arrived at about 12 (noon). We got on a tram and headed straight for the Memorial park. It was drizzling so it was a bit gloomy outside. We walked through the memorial park and we saw the A-bomb domb. This was the building left as it was after the bombing took place. Then we got to the children’s memorial which commemorates a young girl that was a post bomb survivor and eventually died of leukemia at the age of 10. She folded many cranes(birds) in the hope of getting better but unfortunately it never worked and nowadays school children from all over the world fold the cranes and send them to this site. We then visited the Peace Memorial Museum and we spent a long time there. It was very well done and very detailed with all the history before and after the bombing which took place on the 6th August 1945. There were many displays and videos with information. We got to the peace Memorial Hall and it was very sad. All the names and faces of those that died at the time of the bombing and stories of those that survived and how they suffered after. We walked around the city which is totally rebuilt and modern and full of trees and parks. In fact it is a very pretty city and we walked to the old standing castle too. We left for Osaka and met Daryl for dinner again- Tepanyaki this time.

 



25 November, 2006

We woke up with the alarm clock yet again and got to the Tokyo station to catch the train to Osaka. We had to leave Kyoto because we could not find accommodation anywhere. For the same price we found an amazing hotel in Osaka and Daryl was there too so we would spend some time with him too. The plan was to get to Osaka, check in and then have a day in Nara with Daryl and his work colleague. All went according to plan and we arrived in Nara at about 12h00. It is a very small town easily viewed on foot. We started with the 5 storey Pagoda which is the symbol of Nara. Nara was the capital of Japan before Kyoto in 710 – 784 (Heijokyo). We then visited 2 gardens since Daryl hadn’t seen any greenery since he arrived in Japan and Tokyo and Osaka are not the places one would find these pretty spots. The gardens were gorgeous with the ponds and neatly placed cobbled stones and of course the amazing – coloured leaves of the trees. We then got to the Todai Ji (Temple) where we saw a huge Buddha- one of the largest bronze statues in the world. The entrance to the Temple had enormous gates with Kings guarding off all evil and protecting the Temple. The Temple structure holding this Buddha is considered to be the largest wooden building in the world. The Buddha is gold and within the building there is a wall with a hole which is meant to be the size of the Buddha’s nostril. It is believed that if one crawls through the hole and reaches the other side they are reaching a state of enlightenment. Of course I had to try and the “Big Bum” actually got through! We had school girls giving us a free tour inside since they had to practice their English as part of their curriculum. We then headed down a path that lead to the Kasuga Taisha Shrine. It was filled with lanterns and is known as 1000 lantern path. This Shrine was rebuilt every 20 yrs according to the Shinto tradition up until the end of the 19th century. Nara is a beautiful town with greenery and parks all over. There are free roaming deer everywhere which in pre-Buddhist time were considered messengers of the G-ds. The deer lurk around ready for any handouts (biscuits) they might get from passing tourists. We ended our day enjoying a well deserved coffee before we caught the train back to Osaka. We went with Daryl for dinner and we had great sushi. We finally got to our hotel and the room was tiny but better than most.

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

 



24 November, 2006

We headed out to Nijo Jo (Nijo Castle) and on our bus trip we met some school children whom we befriended. They were very fascinated with us and we kept them entertained. The castle was not open to the public but we entered the palace complex. It was really different from everything we had seen and the art paintings were incredible. Everything is so clean and the design is very neat and simple but yet so appealing. We walked through the different rooms where the Shogun lived and where he would reside and dine and have his meetings with officers. The floor is called the ‘nightingale floor’ because of the way it squeaks as one walks. This was a special design in order to hear if anybody entered (security reasons). We walked around the gardens and left for Ginkaku Temple. This was a bus trip away and it is also known as the “Silver Pavillion”, however the Shogun’s ambition to cover the building with silver was never realized. Walkways lead through the gardens, which include meticulously raked cones of white sand (probably symbolic of a mountain) tall pines and a pond. There is also a walkway behind the temple up the mountain and the views are brilliant. The colours are even better. We got on another bus and reached Kinkaku Temple. This Golden Temple is one of Japan’s best-known sights and we happened to arrive at sunset when the sun was setting over the water catching the gold of the Temple. Most Temples were converted from Villas where Shoguns used to stay and rule. It was magnificent! We found our way to Shekawati street- a very picturesque street with expensive restaurants so we looked around and left. We searched for a restaurant and it was quite tough to find some plane Japanese food at a reasonable price so we settled for some Japanese-style Chinese food. Kyoto is very pretty with alleyways and waterways (a bit like Venice). The colours are fantastic and almost surreal.

 



23 November, 2006

We got up really early and walked to the station. We got on the JR line (the bullet train) to Kyoto and it took real quick. It was clean and really pleasant. We arrived 2 and a half hours later and the station was packed. It was a public holiday and it is Autumn, the busiest time of the year. We reached our Ryokan (Japanese-style hotel) and the lady could not speak any English. Thank goodness our lovely friend Kumi and her son Yuki (Noboru’s wife and son) were there to take us out for the day and they translated everything. We had an awesome day with them going first to a typical Kyoto-style lunch at a beautiful restaurant. We then walked through the chaotic streets lined with crafts and food, souvenirs and people, all the way up ‘teapot lane’ to the Kiyomizu Temple. The colours and the views were spectacular. We started by washing our hands before entering the temple and then strolled through the halls and shrines. Before leaving we drank the sacred waters believed to have therapeutic properties from the waterfall. We walked back down through the shops and cute lanes and stopped to have a cup of coffee (at Starbucks) before saying good-bye. They were so good to us and we had a really special day with Yuki and Kumi. We walked around Gion, the main area for shopping, restaurants and nightlife and we had a few more tastings (sweets) in the shops. We found a little restaurant for dinner but no sushi. The main food speciality in Kyoto is the pickles, which we don’t love that much. We got back to our Ryokan not knowing where our heads were going to rest the following night but the old lady told us we could stay another night if we wanted to. We accepted since we tried almost every other place in Kyoto and they were all fully-booked!

 



22 November, 2006

Today was a ‘walking’ day because yesterday we lived underground getting from A to B and not knowing what was going on above ground. We started at the Imperial Palace but unfortunately one is not allowed inside, so we walked around the beautiful gardens- first bit of greenery in the city. We walked and walked passed the International Forum – a boat-like structure, then passed more shops and restaurants and loads of isikayas by the railways and finally reached Rappongi. This is an area full of night clubs and bars and just passed here is Rappongi Hills. This is a real trendy, modern area with a brand new complex with all the stores and cinemas. I had a bit of an accident in the toilet, pushed the spray instead of the flush and got soaking wet. It wasn’t funny at the time! All their toilets have automated buttons for just about everything except for food. We walked back to the hotel and got ready for our dinner with Naboru. He took us to a typical Japanese pub/restaurant and we had a great evening with great food. A bit of everything – lots of snacks and a bit of sushi. We were so lucky to have met him and his family in Switzerland in August. He made time for us in between his hectic work schedule and that was very special. We shared an apple for dessert which cost us R10 but it was fairly large. Tokyo is very clean but there are hardly any bins to be found anywhere. The cars are so quiet and nobody honks the horn, so one doesn’t feel the chaos on the roads. We were ready to move on and tomorrow we are off to Kyoto.

Sunday, November 26, 2006

 



21 November, 2006

We woke up without the alarm clock –can you believe that? We sloooowly got ready and headed out for a day in Tokyo. We started at the government metropolitan towers since it was such a sunny day with good views but unfortunately not good enough to see Mt Fuji. We had a free guided tour around the towers (with a trainee) and got orientated with the city. A city full of skyscrapers and shopping, loads of people and lots of men in business suits. We visited Yoyogi Park which is very quiet and pretty and walked to Meiji-Jingu Shrine. Even though one is in a big city there are places one can escape to for some peace and quiet. We got to Asakusa Temple which was also very pretty and the road leading to the temple was bustling with food stalls and a market. There were all sorts of Japanese snacks but at Japanese prices. We finally made our way to Ginza, the original shopping Mecca of Tokyo. Ginza is the place to be seen, but there are far more popular spots nowadays to visit. All the brand names line the streets from Cartier to Louis Vuitton to Armani to Coach…and on it goes. Rich’s brother Daryl met us for dinner and we had an amazing meal. We didn’t quite know what to order so we pointed to the pictures that looked good. The sake (rice wine) was not great but I found a drink that I would be addicted to for the next few days- plum soda!

 

20 November, 2006

We had a quick breakfast and then Mr Kim dropped us off at the airport. All went well until we arrived in Tokyo. We had not pre-booked a hotel and when we got to the airport we started searching for one that wasn’t astronomically priced. This was a challenge and we wasted a lot of time. We finally found a hostel in our Lonely Planet book (our bible) and we phoned for directions. It took forever but we finally reached our budget hotel and were pleasantly surprised. It was spotlessly clean and there were shared bathrooms but it was really comfortable. We went for a lovely dinner – sushi – of course and it was delicious. Rich is still sick and we are both really tired! If anyone thinks we are on vacation they are mad!!

 



19 November, 2006

Rich was feeling better but still quite sick. We told Mr Kim to fetch us later and so I went searching for drugs and breakfast. As I got back to the hotel Mr Kim and his family were already there waiting and ready to go. We left as soon as we could and we were on our way to the Korean Folk Village. We spent the entire day at the village walking around and looking at all the farmhouses, ceramic making and the tools that were used in the old days. We snacked a lot on real Korean titbits like chestnuts, Korean candy (which was delicious) and flavored rice cakes. Rich was loving the kids and throwing them around all over the show. The gardens were very pretty and the whole place was very interesting since we did not know too much about Korean History and way of life. We went for dinner to a Korean restaurant with typical food. We sat low on the floor and we cooked our meat again. All the Kumchi and pickles came with it and we were really full. The dessert was very interesting- tomatoes. We then went to Mr Kim’s apartment and had more snacks and beer shandy’s. We saw all their photos and chatted and laughed and the kids were so well behaved. It was a good evening and we were sad to leave Seoul (and Mr Kim and family – thanks for everything Mr Kim).

 


18 November, 2006

We started the day getting a cab to the business centre of the city to organize our Japan Rail train pass (which has to be organized outside of Japan) and our Voyager flight ticket. We were very successful and then we met with Mr Kim and his family, (my friend Alex’s friend). He arrived to fetch us and we visited Gyeongbokgung, the primary Palace of the Joseon Dynasty. It was very interesting and we walked around the gardens and visited the folk museum. Rich started to feel terrible so we left and spent the rest of the afternoon in a wonderful Korean restaurant eating great food with Mr Kim and his family. Now I understand why they stay so slim. The food is really healthy and there are lots of vegetables and no breads. They dropped us off at the hotel and it was time to relax and do nothing. Rich has to get better quickly because we have a long day planned for tomorrow.

Saturday, November 18, 2006

 


17 November, 2006

We woke up not so fresh and breezy and starting to feel slightly dirty. We caught 2 buses to the Beijing airport and luckily my darling mother managed to change our flights to the earlier one so we didn’t have to wait at the airport too long. We left China and arrived in Seoul, South Korea. We had to catch another bus into town and that took about 2 hours to get into the city. From there we met 2 helpful army fellows who helped us find our hotel about 45 minutes later. At this stage we felt so dirty and disgusting and tired that I think even an Indian shower would have gone down well. Rich got involved with the washing and ‘doby wallahed’ our clothes again. We spent the evening walking around the busy city and eating Korean food on the street and in a local restaurant. At least it was edible and we really enjoyed it. The prices here are not cheap and the food in good restaurants is really expensive. The City is really clean and it seems to be a shoppers’ paradise. Apparently the shops stay open until 5am (perhaps only on weekends). The Korean women are very beautiful and the people are generally helpful and friendly. A good nights’ sleep was in order.


 





16 November, 2006

We got the local bus at the station to the Army of the Terracotta Warriors. It took about one hour to get there and then we struggled finding the entrance. We eventually walked through an enormous empty complex that will probably one day be full of shops and offices and reached the gate. There are 3 pits to see, a movie and the exhibition hall. We were not advised beforehand, but I would presume that one should see pit 1 last because it is the most spectacular. We were not surprised that it is considered the 8th wonder of the world. It really is impressive and one cannot quite believe that 2000 years ago one man could get 720 000 workers to construct thousands of life-size terracotta soldiers and their horses in battle formation underneath the earth. Qin Shi Huang, the Emperor who reigned for 37 years also started the construction of the Great Wall as a defense and he united the country and standardized the currency. His rule lasted until his death in 210 BC. His Tomb must have been the grandest Mausoleum in the world? We left after seeing the 360 degree movie footage about the Emperor and the history behind the construction of the warriors. We decided to skip the tomb because apparently all that is left is a little mound. We headed to Huaqing Pool which is where the Emperor and his concubines used to bathe in the Hot Springs. The area around was once again very pretty and green and there was a nine dragon lake decorated with pretty flowers and features. They are still doing research about these natural pools and apparently this is the only site in China for archaeological findings about these hot springs. We arrived back at our budget hotel ready for our final train to Beijing. We managed to eat some food, finally and we left for the train. There was one other fellow in our cabin but he couldn’t speak a word of English and our Chinese is not very good. We were in the ‘soft sleeper’ which is the ‘snooty’ section. We tried to sleep but it was a bit difficult. The train was very comfortable and clean and I prefer trains any day to airplanes.

 





15 November, 2006

We woke up and moved rooms but not hotels. Then we bought our train tickets for Beijing for the next night and we decided to see Xian city. We headed out on the public transport with bus numbers and started at the Shaanxi History Museum. The book said that it was one of the best museums in China but we really didn’t think it was that great. We then headed to the Wild Goose Pagoda but we didn’t go up to the top. We walked around the park and gardens and the square and we had a great time- even though it was so cold. We walked around the parks and there were statues and signs all over describing the statue. There was one particular sign that I really enjoyed reading and I want to share it with you.
“Each flower is a picture of a beautiful world and each leaf acts like a lovely frame to surround it”.
Our next two stops were surprisingly good. We went to the Bell Tower which is located in the middle of the city and we went to the top and in to the tiny museum. And then we went to the Drum Tower just to the West which we enjoyed and we saw some lovely Qing Dynasty furniture inside. There was also a museum with many different types and shapes of drums. This instrument plays a big role in Chinese culture. We walked around the Muslim Quarter and found some food to eat. The shops were great and I just wanted to buy stuff. We finally tasted all of the fruits and nuts that are everywhere you look. Most of them are too sweet and I can imagine a serious tummy-ache ahead! It was a good day and we got to our fancy hotel quite early, all ready for a wonderful Indian shower.

 


14 November, 2006

At nine am our air tickets that we had booked with the guide on the train had arrived at the hotel as promised. We started our day at the Six Harmonies Pagoda (Liuhe). A pagoda is an architectural design that represents Chinese power and wisdom. It originated from India and normally has Buddha relics, paintings or some kind of inscription inside or on the outer walls. Therefore it is basically a religious symbol and the area we visited had one main pagoda on the hilltop named after a fairy tale story of a boy named Six Harmonies and about 100 other pagodas within the grounds. We walked around the forest and the wooded pathways and the gardens and the view would have been great if it wasn’t so cloudy. We caught the local bus back to the lake area and we walked around the other side of the lake. It was gorgeous and there were so many parks and trees and flowers. The Imperial design is so pretty and one thing is so amazing- there is Chinese music playing softly in the background in most public places. On our way back towards the city centre, we heard and watched the musical fountain. It was also wonderful. We decided at the last minute to try and squeeze in the Lingyin Temple. We thought it would just be a temple and we could see it in a few minutes- wrong! We got to the temple half an hour before closing but they sold us tickets for the park area only since the Temple was already closed. However, since we speak such good Chinese, we did not know this and we were so upset, well I was anyway. We had seen enough parks and really didn’t feel like browsing around the gardens. It was getting dark so we headed back on an extremely full bus into the city, had a Starbucks for dinner and left for the airport. We had to catch the airport bus from the city but there was no proper bus stop. So, we were not quite sure where to stand and every few minutes a different Chinese fellow would tell us to stand on a different corner. It was quite funny and we managed to get on the bus and arrived at the airport which was really modern and comfortable. We were on our way to Xian in the province of Shaanxi.
We reached our hotel after midnight and it was a budget special. Yip, another Indian shower but we were too tired to care.

 



13 November. 2006

We finally found one of the most beautiful places ever - Hangzhou. Situated around the West Lake and surrounded by mountains it really is pretty. It is a clean city with excellent public transport and loads of parks and greenery. We spent the day walking around the lake and we did a lake tour to two of the islands. We had lunch at the oldest famous restaurant but that did not help with our problem with the food. We ordered the famous ‘beggars chicken’ (chicken wrapped up and baked in charcoal) and it really was not our cup of tea. Well, we are trying…with the food. The islands were very pretty with water and loads of trees. We spent the evening walking around and browsing at the shops where one can find silk, fans and Longjing green tea (grown Southwest of West Lake). It was a cute little shopping area and we reached a square where all the ladies were dancing to music. I tried to join in but couldn’t learn the dance, it was too complicated. We got back to the room and planned our final itinerary. We were leaving China in a few days time and heading to Japan via Seoul, South Korea.

 



12 November, 2006

We decided to do one more day of sight seeing in the city of Shanghai. We walked along the Bund and visited the Old Town. It was the ‘China’ we were looking for all along and the buildings were very pretty. The streets were full of antiques and handicrafts and a little bit of a ‘Disneyfied’ version of Old China. We bought our really expensive Omega’s and we had to get back to our hotel. The train station was brand new and absolutely magnificent. We got on our next train and left for Hangzhou. This was the cheaper train and it was a real experience. We met an English speaking guide who helped us along with our next destination and a ticket to Xian. She phoned from the train and got it all sorted out for us. Besides that, to cut a long story short, by the end of the ride we had made friends with a few Chinese people and they were so friendly and helpful. Everyone always seems to get involved in our business - we don’t mind. The one guy even landed up standing whilst Rich’s big bag took prime position on his seat. We arrived at a great hotel and tried to find food again. We settled for Pizza Hut, we were getting desperate…

 



11 November, 2006

The food from the lunch that Rich told me I was moaning about was hitting home. It was a ‘toilet’ day and would be for the next 24hrs. We spent the morning trying to sort out our journey. Things are stressful and complicated whilst traveling even though some of you may think otherwise! I don’t want to sound like a spoilt brat but when the world is your oyster it can be daunting…So many places to choose from and so little time. As we all know, the more choices we have the harder it gets. By 12h00 we were still unsure of our plans in China and our route, but we did think we would be spending about another 10 days traveling through China. Anyway, our Chinese friend Faye whom we met in Vienna, Austria, came to meet us at our hotel and we spent the rest of the day touring and sight seeing with her. We had a lovely day and evening and she really taught us so much. Our first stop was Xintiandi, a new business, cultural and entertainment complex with stylish restaurants and bars. The area consists of renovated traditional houses that were built in the 1900’s and now have a modern twist. We had a coffee whilst catching up on some news and then headed off to Peoples Square. We walked along Nanjing Donglu (the main pedestrian shopping mile) known as the golden mile whilst all the lights came alive, giving the city a real “Shanghai” feel. All the glitz and glamour and we made our way towards the Bund. From there we looked across at all the skyscrapers and each one was prettier than the next. The different shapes and designs of the buildings with their multi-colors were really fascinating. We made our way to the other side of the river for a different view and had dinner in a lovely restaurant. Faye ordered for us and we could actually eat the food. We did however order cautiously since Rich was not feeling 100%. The best part of all was the desert. We went to another café and had fruit deserts Hong Kong style. They were delicious. Thank you Faye for making our day so special!

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