Saturday, December 30, 2006
29 December, 2006
It was our last day in Vietnam and South East Asia. We had to still spend most of the day shopping and trying to pack our ‘box’. It wasn’t the best day ever but we got all the shopping done (not my best) and we are now ready for our next venture - Hawaii. However, we are so sad to leave this part of the world and its people, but not unhappy to change the diet. The food is starting to take its toll. Vietnam is definitely the cheapest country we have been to and I think Hawaii is going to be a bit of a shock! We arrived at the airport for a fancy business class flight (since you all know we are your snob-type backpackers) back to Tokyo. We waited in the lounge – in style - and left at midnight.
It was our last day in Vietnam and South East Asia. We had to still spend most of the day shopping and trying to pack our ‘box’. It wasn’t the best day ever but we got all the shopping done (not my best) and we are now ready for our next venture - Hawaii. However, we are so sad to leave this part of the world and its people, but not unhappy to change the diet. The food is starting to take its toll. Vietnam is definitely the cheapest country we have been to and I think Hawaii is going to be a bit of a shock! We arrived at the airport for a fancy business class flight (since you all know we are your snob-type backpackers) back to Tokyo. We waited in the lounge – in style - and left at midnight.
28 December, 2006
We woke up at 5am, getting earlier every day. We left Cambodia and had to cross the borders again. I was panicking because I had to make sure that they never stamped on a blank page in my passport- only 3 blanks left. It all went well but the bus journey was quite long and we reached Ho Chi Minh City 7 hours later at about 13h00. We found a cheap but clean guesthouse and we were off to shop AGAIN. We ran around the whole afternoon shopping and it wasn’t pleasant but we did buy nice stuff- and cheap. The Vietnamese people are fun to bargain with and it can actually be quite a laugh. They joke a lot and we joke back and eventually we all agree on a price that everyone is happy with. We had dinner sitting outside, the weather was gorgeous and we had to fetch our ‘box’ from our previous 5 star hotel. We were so glad that we were not staying there this time around; we prefer the backpacker places by far!
We woke up at 5am, getting earlier every day. We left Cambodia and had to cross the borders again. I was panicking because I had to make sure that they never stamped on a blank page in my passport- only 3 blanks left. It all went well but the bus journey was quite long and we reached Ho Chi Minh City 7 hours later at about 13h00. We found a cheap but clean guesthouse and we were off to shop AGAIN. We ran around the whole afternoon shopping and it wasn’t pleasant but we did buy nice stuff- and cheap. The Vietnamese people are fun to bargain with and it can actually be quite a laugh. They joke a lot and we joke back and eventually we all agree on a price that everyone is happy with. We had dinner sitting outside, the weather was gorgeous and we had to fetch our ‘box’ from our previous 5 star hotel. We were so glad that we were not staying there this time around; we prefer the backpacker places by far!
27 December, 2006
We woke up and fetched our fruit from across the road. A young friend of ours promised us she would prepare us a mixed fruit packet and she was there waiting for us before going to school. We were really traumatized to leave because Sihanoukville was really one place we absolutely loved and we relaxed so much. We got on a bus and were on our way back to Phnom Pehn. The journey was quite pleasant and there wasn’t much excitement on this bus trip. When we arrived in Phnom Pehn we knew where to go and so we got settled quickly and headed out to the market for some serious shopping. We had a box that was waiting to be filled up in Ho Chi Minh City and this was our first and last bit of shopping we would be doing. Unfortunately, we were not very successful and really didn’t find much. We went for a walk along the river and there were many locals sitting around and making hand-made flowers. It was very alive and bustling but the poverty is really bad. There are so many limbless and helpless people and quite a bit of begging too. We found our last Khmer dinner and the proceeds went to an orphanage; this would be our last meal in Cambodia. There happened to be a hairdresser right next door our hotel and so I went for a haircut. The ‘wash’ was incredible. I had a body massage on a reclining chair whilst I had my head massaged and a face wash too. Then I got a few ‘klaps’ on my head (the Thai way) I guess, and I was ready for my haircut and mostly my fringe cut. At least this time the hairdresser could speak English. We were sad to be leaving Cambodia and I think that it is a country with lots of potential, as long as another nutcase like Pol Pot doesn’t get involved!
We woke up and fetched our fruit from across the road. A young friend of ours promised us she would prepare us a mixed fruit packet and she was there waiting for us before going to school. We were really traumatized to leave because Sihanoukville was really one place we absolutely loved and we relaxed so much. We got on a bus and were on our way back to Phnom Pehn. The journey was quite pleasant and there wasn’t much excitement on this bus trip. When we arrived in Phnom Pehn we knew where to go and so we got settled quickly and headed out to the market for some serious shopping. We had a box that was waiting to be filled up in Ho Chi Minh City and this was our first and last bit of shopping we would be doing. Unfortunately, we were not very successful and really didn’t find much. We went for a walk along the river and there were many locals sitting around and making hand-made flowers. It was very alive and bustling but the poverty is really bad. There are so many limbless and helpless people and quite a bit of begging too. We found our last Khmer dinner and the proceeds went to an orphanage; this would be our last meal in Cambodia. There happened to be a hairdresser right next door our hotel and so I went for a haircut. The ‘wash’ was incredible. I had a body massage on a reclining chair whilst I had my head massaged and a face wash too. Then I got a few ‘klaps’ on my head (the Thai way) I guess, and I was ready for my haircut and mostly my fringe cut. At least this time the hairdresser could speak English. We were sad to be leaving Cambodia and I think that it is a country with lots of potential, as long as another nutcase like Pol Pot doesn’t get involved!
Wednesday, December 27, 2006
26 December, 2006
We had an awesome day doing nothing but lying in the sun (what we do best). We walked to breakfast on the beach and that was the most strenuous part of the day. We tried to support all our Cambodian friends and we bought some ‘tsatskas’ from each one. We had massages the whole day and ate loads of fruit to try and give each one of them a chance to sell something. They became our family and we loved them. Most of the kids should be at school but they have no money to go or otherwise they are naughty and don’t want to go. The youngsters are real entrepreneurs and it is survival of the fittest. We walked along the beach in the evening and had our last fish barbeque, probably for a while. No chocolate brownie tonight, we were tired and had to get to bed so we could wake up bright and fresh for the early bus to Phnom Penn. It was a tiring day of doing nothing. We didn’t even manage internet and so, mom and dad I wish you a Happy Anniversary and many many more happy ones! Hope you had a great day!
We had an awesome day doing nothing but lying in the sun (what we do best). We walked to breakfast on the beach and that was the most strenuous part of the day. We tried to support all our Cambodian friends and we bought some ‘tsatskas’ from each one. We had massages the whole day and ate loads of fruit to try and give each one of them a chance to sell something. They became our family and we loved them. Most of the kids should be at school but they have no money to go or otherwise they are naughty and don’t want to go. The youngsters are real entrepreneurs and it is survival of the fittest. We walked along the beach in the evening and had our last fish barbeque, probably for a while. No chocolate brownie tonight, we were tired and had to get to bed so we could wake up bright and fresh for the early bus to Phnom Penn. It was a tiring day of doing nothing. We didn’t even manage internet and so, mom and dad I wish you a Happy Anniversary and many many more happy ones! Hope you had a great day!
25 December, 2006
A full day on the beach doing absolutely nothing. Everyone was in high spirits since it was Christmas (or rather Christma as the Cambodians would say). Altho’ they don’t celebrate Christmas, there are many foreigners around so there is a great vibe. We had one thing that we had to get done and that was to get to the Vietnam Embassy to get our visas (again). That took about 30 minutes and we were on the beach, in the sun, with all our Cambodian friends. We were told that the visas took quick and were the cheapest in Sihanoukville, but we got really lucky when the consular mistakenly gave us a $50 change instead of a $5. We had more massages, ate more fruit, bought beach bangles and I ventured for a walk along the beach whilst Rich did what he does best- sleep on the beach. All the stress and traveling and buses were all worth it for this! We went for an awesome fish dinner again on the beach with some wine and off we went to have our chocolate brownies. We then got onto wireless internet whilst sitting a few metres away from the beach and caught up with some of our admin and phone calls. Paradise has finally arrived.
A full day on the beach doing absolutely nothing. Everyone was in high spirits since it was Christmas (or rather Christma as the Cambodians would say). Altho’ they don’t celebrate Christmas, there are many foreigners around so there is a great vibe. We had one thing that we had to get done and that was to get to the Vietnam Embassy to get our visas (again). That took about 30 minutes and we were on the beach, in the sun, with all our Cambodian friends. We were told that the visas took quick and were the cheapest in Sihanoukville, but we got really lucky when the consular mistakenly gave us a $50 change instead of a $5. We had more massages, ate more fruit, bought beach bangles and I ventured for a walk along the beach whilst Rich did what he does best- sleep on the beach. All the stress and traveling and buses were all worth it for this! We went for an awesome fish dinner again on the beach with some wine and off we went to have our chocolate brownies. We then got onto wireless internet whilst sitting a few metres away from the beach and caught up with some of our admin and phone calls. Paradise has finally arrived.
24 December, 2006
We waited and waited for the GST bus company to pick us up from our hotel but nobody came. We took a tuk-tuk to the station so that we would not miss the bus and nobody showed a sign of concern. They were never going to pick us up in the first place and it was actually pathetic. Anyway, we got on the dirty, local bus and they had to move everyone around to create more space for us and a couple of others. It all started off rosy and then it just got worse. The TV came on blaring with some Cambodian comedian show and right next to us we had a naughty little boy who would not stop crying and performing. Besides that it was all fine. We reached Sihanoukville at 11.15 (4 hours later) as promised and we hopped onto two motorbikes. They took us to a hotel right across the road from the main beach and it was clean and big for just $12. We tried to actually book some kind of accommodation from Phnom Penh but all was full so we were a bit worried before arriving. I guess someone up there was looking after us. We were checked in and settled and on the beach by 11h30. It was bliss, sitting on the beach the entire day having food, massages, drinks, shopping, whatever you want brought to you on the beach bed. The only time you have to move is to turn around during the massage and go to the loo. Heaven, especially when you are getting fed fresh pineapple and mangoes. The water is superb, so warm and still, and the weather isn’t too hot (just perfect – and no humidity). I had three ladies massaging me all at the same time. We went for a stroll along the beach and had dinner a bit further on with the water breaking a few meters away from our feet. Back to King prawns- guzzle guzzle- yeh! We ended off our incredible day with chocolate brownies. This is definitely the best spot in the world!
We waited and waited for the GST bus company to pick us up from our hotel but nobody came. We took a tuk-tuk to the station so that we would not miss the bus and nobody showed a sign of concern. They were never going to pick us up in the first place and it was actually pathetic. Anyway, we got on the dirty, local bus and they had to move everyone around to create more space for us and a couple of others. It all started off rosy and then it just got worse. The TV came on blaring with some Cambodian comedian show and right next to us we had a naughty little boy who would not stop crying and performing. Besides that it was all fine. We reached Sihanoukville at 11.15 (4 hours later) as promised and we hopped onto two motorbikes. They took us to a hotel right across the road from the main beach and it was clean and big for just $12. We tried to actually book some kind of accommodation from Phnom Penh but all was full so we were a bit worried before arriving. I guess someone up there was looking after us. We were checked in and settled and on the beach by 11h30. It was bliss, sitting on the beach the entire day having food, massages, drinks, shopping, whatever you want brought to you on the beach bed. The only time you have to move is to turn around during the massage and go to the loo. Heaven, especially when you are getting fed fresh pineapple and mangoes. The water is superb, so warm and still, and the weather isn’t too hot (just perfect – and no humidity). I had three ladies massaging me all at the same time. We went for a stroll along the beach and had dinner a bit further on with the water breaking a few meters away from our feet. Back to King prawns- guzzle guzzle- yeh! We ended off our incredible day with chocolate brownies. This is definitely the best spot in the world!
23 December, 2006
We woke up late for the first time in months, or so it feels. We tried to sort out our bus journeys for the next few days, of which there will be three, and everyone lies about the times or just decides to give the wrong information. It is actually impossible trying to organize anything and once you do one doesn’t know what will happen? Anyway, we hired a tuk-tuk driver and we started at the killing fields (Choeung Ek). A very depressing place to say the least. After overthrowing the Khmer Republic Regime during 1975- 1979, the Ultra Communist Khmer Rouge Regime (UKKRR) converted Choeung Ek commune into the most cruel and barbaric killing field on earth. 86 of the 129 graves that were found have been excavated. There is a memorial house with 800 skulls of victims on display along with some teeth lying around and clothes of the victims. Our guide was a boy 14 years of age at the time and his whole family got killed. He was there when they opened up the graves and he said it stunk and there were worms everywhere. He saw it with his own two eyes, the bodies, the blood and the remains…There is not too much to see at the moment because of human activities and the destruction of nature, but in years to come they will re-construct certain artifacts in accordance with real and true history. We left the killing fields and got to the Tuol Sleng museum, the location where the Khmer Rouge set up a prison to detain individuals accused of opposing Angkar. This was previously a school and they converted it into prison cells called S-21, security office 21, which was specifically designed for the interrogation and extermination of anti-Angkar elements. The victims in the prison were taken from all parts of the country and from all walks of life, but the majority were Cambodians. Whole families and even newly born babies were taken there en masse to be exterminated. There are many pictures on display in the dilapidated building and one can still view the cells with some shackles and beds. We didn’t spend too long here since it was very sad and so we went to the market. We only had one hour before closing time but we managed to buy a few DVD’s and Rich got some tops- his are looking a bit worn to say the least! We had a great dinner along the river and then I had a foot reflexology given by a blind person. It is common to have massages by the blind here in Cambodia. It was a hard day and we both weren’t very cheerful after the day’s sights.
We woke up late for the first time in months, or so it feels. We tried to sort out our bus journeys for the next few days, of which there will be three, and everyone lies about the times or just decides to give the wrong information. It is actually impossible trying to organize anything and once you do one doesn’t know what will happen? Anyway, we hired a tuk-tuk driver and we started at the killing fields (Choeung Ek). A very depressing place to say the least. After overthrowing the Khmer Republic Regime during 1975- 1979, the Ultra Communist Khmer Rouge Regime (UKKRR) converted Choeung Ek commune into the most cruel and barbaric killing field on earth. 86 of the 129 graves that were found have been excavated. There is a memorial house with 800 skulls of victims on display along with some teeth lying around and clothes of the victims. Our guide was a boy 14 years of age at the time and his whole family got killed. He was there when they opened up the graves and he said it stunk and there were worms everywhere. He saw it with his own two eyes, the bodies, the blood and the remains…There is not too much to see at the moment because of human activities and the destruction of nature, but in years to come they will re-construct certain artifacts in accordance with real and true history. We left the killing fields and got to the Tuol Sleng museum, the location where the Khmer Rouge set up a prison to detain individuals accused of opposing Angkar. This was previously a school and they converted it into prison cells called S-21, security office 21, which was specifically designed for the interrogation and extermination of anti-Angkar elements. The victims in the prison were taken from all parts of the country and from all walks of life, but the majority were Cambodians. Whole families and even newly born babies were taken there en masse to be exterminated. There are many pictures on display in the dilapidated building and one can still view the cells with some shackles and beds. We didn’t spend too long here since it was very sad and so we went to the market. We only had one hour before closing time but we managed to buy a few DVD’s and Rich got some tops- his are looking a bit worn to say the least! We had a great dinner along the river and then I had a foot reflexology given by a blind person. It is common to have massages by the blind here in Cambodia. It was a hard day and we both weren’t very cheerful after the day’s sights.
22 December, 2006
We had to wake up at 4h15 am which was not pleasant at all! Dy, our tuk tuk driver was waiting for us at 5 am and off we went to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat. When we arrived it was still dark and we waited and waited until finally the sun started to peer over the building across the lake. The morning air was crisp and cool and it was so peaceful. We strolled through Angkor Wat again and it was very quiet at that time of the day – so much better without the crowds. We then did the remainder of the big circuit and saw four or five more temples and buildings which were very peaceful and tranquil. We took some great photos and were ‘templed-out’ so we got back to town and booked our bus for Phnom Penh for the afternoon. The bus would take 6 hrs and so we had a quick lunch before we left and we said good-bye to our Singaporean friends. The journey wasn’t too bad, another local bus, but we were so exhausted that we slept most of the way. My body feels out of synch and so unbalanced, eating at strange hours and the wrong foods half the time. We need to get back on track and get some kind of routine going. It is really tough being on vacation and we are taking strain. We arrived in Phnom Penh at about 20h30 and had to search for accommodation which took about one hour to find the right place. We found a hotel along the river and it was clean. We actually had a proper – looking shower but there was only a trickle that came out so that was the end of that excitement.The city is quite large and there are many restaurants and bars. We had a late dinner- decided to go for Thai – and it was excellent.
We had to wake up at 4h15 am which was not pleasant at all! Dy, our tuk tuk driver was waiting for us at 5 am and off we went to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat. When we arrived it was still dark and we waited and waited until finally the sun started to peer over the building across the lake. The morning air was crisp and cool and it was so peaceful. We strolled through Angkor Wat again and it was very quiet at that time of the day – so much better without the crowds. We then did the remainder of the big circuit and saw four or five more temples and buildings which were very peaceful and tranquil. We took some great photos and were ‘templed-out’ so we got back to town and booked our bus for Phnom Penh for the afternoon. The bus would take 6 hrs and so we had a quick lunch before we left and we said good-bye to our Singaporean friends. The journey wasn’t too bad, another local bus, but we were so exhausted that we slept most of the way. My body feels out of synch and so unbalanced, eating at strange hours and the wrong foods half the time. We need to get back on track and get some kind of routine going. It is really tough being on vacation and we are taking strain. We arrived in Phnom Penh at about 20h30 and had to search for accommodation which took about one hour to find the right place. We found a hotel along the river and it was clean. We actually had a proper – looking shower but there was only a trickle that came out so that was the end of that excitement.The city is quite large and there are many restaurants and bars. We had a late dinner- decided to go for Thai – and it was excellent.
21 December, 2006
Today was the day- we were finally going to see the famous Angkor Wat, the largest religious building in the world. Our driver that was meant to pick us up never showed and sent Dy instead. He was drunk and suffering from a hangover. We bought our pass and our tuk tuk driver (Dy) would lead the way. He was on a performance incentive. The normal price was $12 /day and we agreed to pay him $9/day + performance! Rich thought this was a brilliant idea. He first dropped us at Angkor Thom, which is pretty much the central part of the complex and we visited many sights and temples. We only reached Angkor Wat at about 15h30 and it was quite crowded. It was a little disappointing and there were just too many people to try and experience it as a temple or Mausoleum. It was however very beautiful and grand and the bas-reliefs are incredible. We climbed the steep steps up and down and had magnificent views of the surrounding rice fields as the sun was starting to set. We actually spent sunset on a hilltop of another temple and it was like a circus their since there were so many people; and Angkor Wat was too far away from here to see. It was a long day but well worth it. It is amazing to think that over 1000 years ago these temples were constructed and there was an entire city here, and it is so sad to see how most of them have been destroyed and left in ruins. We got to our hotel and met up with our Singaporean friends that we had met in Laos (Ken and Yu Yuh). We all went for dinner and caught up on our different border crossing stories from Laos into Cambodia. We still cannot figure out which route was worse!
Today was the day- we were finally going to see the famous Angkor Wat, the largest religious building in the world. Our driver that was meant to pick us up never showed and sent Dy instead. He was drunk and suffering from a hangover. We bought our pass and our tuk tuk driver (Dy) would lead the way. He was on a performance incentive. The normal price was $12 /day and we agreed to pay him $9/day + performance! Rich thought this was a brilliant idea. He first dropped us at Angkor Thom, which is pretty much the central part of the complex and we visited many sights and temples. We only reached Angkor Wat at about 15h30 and it was quite crowded. It was a little disappointing and there were just too many people to try and experience it as a temple or Mausoleum. It was however very beautiful and grand and the bas-reliefs are incredible. We climbed the steep steps up and down and had magnificent views of the surrounding rice fields as the sun was starting to set. We actually spent sunset on a hilltop of another temple and it was like a circus their since there were so many people; and Angkor Wat was too far away from here to see. It was a long day but well worth it. It is amazing to think that over 1000 years ago these temples were constructed and there was an entire city here, and it is so sad to see how most of them have been destroyed and left in ruins. We got to our hotel and met up with our Singaporean friends that we had met in Laos (Ken and Yu Yuh). We all went for dinner and caught up on our different border crossing stories from Laos into Cambodia. We still cannot figure out which route was worse!
20 December, 2006
Our private taxi was waiting for us at 7am as organized and we didn’t know what would happen today. We left for the Choam Singam border and it was a smooth beautiful ride to the border. He was a good driver and the road was surprisingly wonderful. All was going well and we now walked through the border. The Thai side was fine and then we arrived at the Cambodian side. We had to wait under the thatch for a few minutes for the chief to come and give us visas. That was all fine and brisk (apart from him trying his luck at extorting about $5 from each of us) and then we had to go and get the stamp. Well, I thought that they would not let me through the way they were analyzing my passport, from the seam to the cover and they were flipping through it madly. I eventually got it back in my paws and we walked through the dusty road to where, we were not sure. A taxi came by and we negotiated a rate to Anlong Veng, a town 13km from the border. The border was very quiet and I am not sure how long we would have waited for the next mode of transport to arrive. We ate breakfast / lunch in Anlong Veng at something that looked like a restaurant and from there we caught something called a ‘shared taxi’ to Siem Reap. This consisted of 6 other Cambodians excluding the driver + us all neatly packed into a Camry. It was an experience considering it was a dirt road the whole way, really bumpy and the driver was going fast. He did not slow down for anything. It felt like our bodies were going through the mill but it only lasted two hours- how disappointing (Ha Ha). There were a few remote villages along the way but very primitive. Thick, dense bush covered most of the terrain and even the cows were very scarce. We finally arrived in Siem Reap without breaking down and we were attacked by tuk-tuk drivers - our next mode of transport. We chose the calmest one and he drove us around until we found a hotel. It took a while but it was worth it because it was very good value for money and it was more of a resort. We chilled at the pool for about an hour and realized that we had actually made it to Siem Reap before midnight. Things went pretty smoothly looking back. We walked around the town and it was really fun. There were so many restaurants, a little market and some art galleries. The alleys were small and pretty and there was a lovely vibe in the town. We had a traditional Khmer lunch and dinner (Amok). This is a type of curry served in a leaf either with fish, chicken or beef. It was very good and the spices were great but it was quite rich. Many places had a happy hour going but we thought we would leave the bucket of vodka for tomorrow night since we had a long day in Angkor Wat ahead of us.
Our private taxi was waiting for us at 7am as organized and we didn’t know what would happen today. We left for the Choam Singam border and it was a smooth beautiful ride to the border. He was a good driver and the road was surprisingly wonderful. All was going well and we now walked through the border. The Thai side was fine and then we arrived at the Cambodian side. We had to wait under the thatch for a few minutes for the chief to come and give us visas. That was all fine and brisk (apart from him trying his luck at extorting about $5 from each of us) and then we had to go and get the stamp. Well, I thought that they would not let me through the way they were analyzing my passport, from the seam to the cover and they were flipping through it madly. I eventually got it back in my paws and we walked through the dusty road to where, we were not sure. A taxi came by and we negotiated a rate to Anlong Veng, a town 13km from the border. The border was very quiet and I am not sure how long we would have waited for the next mode of transport to arrive. We ate breakfast / lunch in Anlong Veng at something that looked like a restaurant and from there we caught something called a ‘shared taxi’ to Siem Reap. This consisted of 6 other Cambodians excluding the driver + us all neatly packed into a Camry. It was an experience considering it was a dirt road the whole way, really bumpy and the driver was going fast. He did not slow down for anything. It felt like our bodies were going through the mill but it only lasted two hours- how disappointing (Ha Ha). There were a few remote villages along the way but very primitive. Thick, dense bush covered most of the terrain and even the cows were very scarce. We finally arrived in Siem Reap without breaking down and we were attacked by tuk-tuk drivers - our next mode of transport. We chose the calmest one and he drove us around until we found a hotel. It took a while but it was worth it because it was very good value for money and it was more of a resort. We chilled at the pool for about an hour and realized that we had actually made it to Siem Reap before midnight. Things went pretty smoothly looking back. We walked around the town and it was really fun. There were so many restaurants, a little market and some art galleries. The alleys were small and pretty and there was a lovely vibe in the town. We had a traditional Khmer lunch and dinner (Amok). This is a type of curry served in a leaf either with fish, chicken or beef. It was very good and the spices were great but it was quite rich. Many places had a happy hour going but we thought we would leave the bucket of vodka for tomorrow night since we had a long day in Angkor Wat ahead of us.
19 December, 2006
We woke up and decided to get to Cambodia via Thailand instead of heading South to the Laos - Cambodian border (which was the safer route – but we were excited to take our chances). We heard that this was a better, shorter route to get to Siem Reap even though we had to enter another country and cross an extra border. We waited for a Sungtauw (truck) to arrive at the island (Khong island) and we were on our way back to Pakse. A town we had passed coming from Savannekhat. It was a 2 hour journey in the breeze, not too bad, and when we arrived a tuk-tuk took us to the bus station. We arrived and there was another truck being loaded for Vang Tao (the last Laos town before crossing into Thailand) which was our destination. We got on and this truck stopped all the time to pick up passengers. They were almost on our laps, I think we were about 40 at the back- crazy! This was bearable and we got off at the border. We walked across from Laos and into Thailand and it was so easy since we didn’t need a visa BUT the idiot at the customs stamped one of my blank pages and I specifically asked him not to. We were now pissed off to say the least because I now only have 5 more blanks and 2 more visas to get and the rest…. I did start with a brand new passport- believe it or not! Anyway, we continued with our journey and got to the local bus station 1km away to catch another truck to some place where another bus was waiting for us to take us to Ubon Ratchathani- our final destination for the day. We arrived in Ubon at about 15h00 and were quite excited about the days’ progress. We then caught a tuk tuk taxi that forgot to drop us off where we had requested so we got off furious and never paid him. We had to backtrack a bit with another tuk-tuk and were recommended to go to a particular hotel which was awful. We found another dump that was bearable for one night and we settled. So far we were on schedule with our plan and tomorrow we would leave for Cambodia. We got to the tourist agency we were also advised to go to and we wanted to book our bus to get us through the border. They then told us that the bus will only go in January and the only way to get to the border is by private car. The price was ridiculous and that would only be up to the border (no further). All the information we were given previously was backfiring and we were really upset. We hadn’t really eaten the whole day, we were tired and now we had visions of sleeping in Ubon a few days. In fact, we were trying to figure out which island we would head off to in Thailand. Ubon, we were also told, was a lovely little town with a night market and lots of shopping. Well, there was a food market, which was where we landed up for dinner, and that was it! Everything was closed by 20h00 and nobody was around. It was a bit of a disappointment to say the least and now we were regretting ever coming to Thailand. We did however find out that there were buses to the border and so we could always get there at some stage the next day. We went to an internet café and I spoke to the family whilst Rich frantically looked up if anyone had ever crossed the way we were going and there was no information at all. When we arrived back at the hotel, the guard asked us if we wanted a private taxi to the border. We finally haggled a price and thought it would probably be the fastest and easiest way to get started with our day, even though we were paying a bit of a premium for it. Rich never really slept that night and we were both very worried about our sojourn the following day.
We woke up and decided to get to Cambodia via Thailand instead of heading South to the Laos - Cambodian border (which was the safer route – but we were excited to take our chances). We heard that this was a better, shorter route to get to Siem Reap even though we had to enter another country and cross an extra border. We waited for a Sungtauw (truck) to arrive at the island (Khong island) and we were on our way back to Pakse. A town we had passed coming from Savannekhat. It was a 2 hour journey in the breeze, not too bad, and when we arrived a tuk-tuk took us to the bus station. We arrived and there was another truck being loaded for Vang Tao (the last Laos town before crossing into Thailand) which was our destination. We got on and this truck stopped all the time to pick up passengers. They were almost on our laps, I think we were about 40 at the back- crazy! This was bearable and we got off at the border. We walked across from Laos and into Thailand and it was so easy since we didn’t need a visa BUT the idiot at the customs stamped one of my blank pages and I specifically asked him not to. We were now pissed off to say the least because I now only have 5 more blanks and 2 more visas to get and the rest…. I did start with a brand new passport- believe it or not! Anyway, we continued with our journey and got to the local bus station 1km away to catch another truck to some place where another bus was waiting for us to take us to Ubon Ratchathani- our final destination for the day. We arrived in Ubon at about 15h00 and were quite excited about the days’ progress. We then caught a tuk tuk taxi that forgot to drop us off where we had requested so we got off furious and never paid him. We had to backtrack a bit with another tuk-tuk and were recommended to go to a particular hotel which was awful. We found another dump that was bearable for one night and we settled. So far we were on schedule with our plan and tomorrow we would leave for Cambodia. We got to the tourist agency we were also advised to go to and we wanted to book our bus to get us through the border. They then told us that the bus will only go in January and the only way to get to the border is by private car. The price was ridiculous and that would only be up to the border (no further). All the information we were given previously was backfiring and we were really upset. We hadn’t really eaten the whole day, we were tired and now we had visions of sleeping in Ubon a few days. In fact, we were trying to figure out which island we would head off to in Thailand. Ubon, we were also told, was a lovely little town with a night market and lots of shopping. Well, there was a food market, which was where we landed up for dinner, and that was it! Everything was closed by 20h00 and nobody was around. It was a bit of a disappointment to say the least and now we were regretting ever coming to Thailand. We did however find out that there were buses to the border and so we could always get there at some stage the next day. We went to an internet café and I spoke to the family whilst Rich frantically looked up if anyone had ever crossed the way we were going and there was no information at all. When we arrived back at the hotel, the guard asked us if we wanted a private taxi to the border. We finally haggled a price and thought it would probably be the fastest and easiest way to get started with our day, even though we were paying a bit of a premium for it. Rich never really slept that night and we were both very worried about our sojourn the following day.
18 December, 2006
A relaxed day but very SAD. My granny Jean passed away in the early hours of the morning. We basically did nothing the whole day, and I spent most of the day lying in the hammock reading. In the afternoon we went for a walk around the island and it was such a gorgeous, calm place. We just relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful weather and the quiet, peaceful island on the banks of the Mekong. No worries in the world except for the fact that tomorrow we had to get to Cambodia in some sort of messed up way.
A relaxed day but very SAD. My granny Jean passed away in the early hours of the morning. We basically did nothing the whole day, and I spent most of the day lying in the hammock reading. In the afternoon we went for a walk around the island and it was such a gorgeous, calm place. We just relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful weather and the quiet, peaceful island on the banks of the Mekong. No worries in the world except for the fact that tomorrow we had to get to Cambodia in some sort of messed up way.
17 December, 2006
We had a sloooow breakfast overlooking the Mekong river and then decided to hire bikes for $1. Ken and Yu Yuh came with and we set out on our bicycles to explore the island. It was all going well and then Ken and Yu Yuh got a flat tyre. They had to get a lift with the only passing truck and Rich and I continued around the island. All in all it was 35km and we had such an amazing day. We passed cows and ducks and chickens and pigs and nothing else. There were little villages all along and loads of open land. So primitive and quiet, at times we could only hear the sound of the bicycle. When we got back we were hot and tired and our bums were in agony. We had a bite with Ken and Yu Yuh and chatted the rest of the afternoon away. It was so relaxing and we felt so good.
We had a sloooow breakfast overlooking the Mekong river and then decided to hire bikes for $1. Ken and Yu Yuh came with and we set out on our bicycles to explore the island. It was all going well and then Ken and Yu Yuh got a flat tyre. They had to get a lift with the only passing truck and Rich and I continued around the island. All in all it was 35km and we had such an amazing day. We passed cows and ducks and chickens and pigs and nothing else. There were little villages all along and loads of open land. So primitive and quiet, at times we could only hear the sound of the bicycle. When we got back we were hot and tired and our bums were in agony. We had a bite with Ken and Yu Yuh and chatted the rest of the afternoon away. It was so relaxing and we felt so good.
16 December, 2006
We left Savannekhat and got on a local bus to Pakse. It probably wins for being the worst trip of the travels yet. About 6 hrs of hell, stopping every 100m and letting people on and off. There were even a few live chickens at the back and every so often a group of girls would pour onto the bus with their chicken, pork, eggs for sale. There was cement being loaded at one stage and G-d knows what else? Our bums were killing us and the seat was tiny. People were smoking on the bus but thank goodness it was airy, Rich still had his t-shirt tied around his mouth and nose. Oh, there were no toilet stops and so it really went on forever. The best part about the trip was that we met some people from Singapore and tried to joke about the situation and the lovely journey we were all experiencing. We finally arrived in Pakse with far less people, minus a chicken and an extra few bags of sand. We caught a tuk-tuk with our new friends (Ken and Yu Yuh) to the other bus station and there was a truck leaving for Si Phan Don, our final destination for a few days. It was a fairly pleasant journey, in fact it was incredible compared to the bus, and we arrived 2 hours later. We crossed onto Khong Island (the main island in Si Phan Don) by ferry and we got dropped off right by the hotels. We found a lovely, cheap spot on the river and we were already chilling…
We left Savannekhat and got on a local bus to Pakse. It probably wins for being the worst trip of the travels yet. About 6 hrs of hell, stopping every 100m and letting people on and off. There were even a few live chickens at the back and every so often a group of girls would pour onto the bus with their chicken, pork, eggs for sale. There was cement being loaded at one stage and G-d knows what else? Our bums were killing us and the seat was tiny. People were smoking on the bus but thank goodness it was airy, Rich still had his t-shirt tied around his mouth and nose. Oh, there were no toilet stops and so it really went on forever. The best part about the trip was that we met some people from Singapore and tried to joke about the situation and the lovely journey we were all experiencing. We finally arrived in Pakse with far less people, minus a chicken and an extra few bags of sand. We caught a tuk-tuk with our new friends (Ken and Yu Yuh) to the other bus station and there was a truck leaving for Si Phan Don, our final destination for a few days. It was a fairly pleasant journey, in fact it was incredible compared to the bus, and we arrived 2 hours later. We crossed onto Khong Island (the main island in Si Phan Don) by ferry and we got dropped off right by the hotels. We found a lovely, cheap spot on the river and we were already chilling…
15 December, 2006
We woke up at 5h45 again absolutely crazy, what kind of holiday is that? We headed to the one and only main road where we just randomly picked a spot to wait for a mode of transport to take us to Savannekhat. At 7h05 a truck (sungtaauw) pulled up and he said he would leave at 7h45. So we went to the one and only restaurant for some breakfast. By the way, we left our luggage loaded on his truck whilst we ate- they are such honest people. This was the best breakfast of the trip so far. We had two juicy fried eggs each with tea and stunning sweet bread scones. It cost us a whole dollar! We got back to the truck and waited until it was full even though there were already 8 people + us, a motorbike, plenty empty beer crates loaded and other paraphernalia… The drive was quite pleasant except for the stops along the way but the scenery was wonderful and the country is so green and lush. We passed many villages and it was very interesting to see how they live and the daily life. When we arrived in Savannekhat we searched for accommodation for ages. All the guesthouses and hotels were shocking and you must understand that at this stage it must be bad for us not find something. We settled for the Mekong Hotel by the river and one could see Thailand across the Mekong River. We were a little on edge since we had no money on us by now (only $ travelers cheques, credit cards and some Ding Dongs). There are no ATM’s in Laos so drawing cash was not an option. We got to a bank and managed to get some dollars and Kips and now we could relax. The town was like a morgue and there was nothing really happening. We had a bite to eat and walked along the river, stopping by at the Wat and we met some novice monks who wanted to practice their English. A massage went down really well and by then it was already dark. The market was closed and so we went to the river and had a local fish on the barbecue which came with a huge bowl of sticky rice and lettuce. It was fresh and delicious. We got back to the hotel and the music was blaring. It was coming up through the floor so Rich went downstairs to tell the guy that we had to move out. He not only gave us our money back, even though we had left our stuff in the room since 12h00, but he also drove Rich on his motorbike to help us find another hotel. How is that! These people are incredible: friendly, honest, trusting and kind. We had a cold shower, eventually, and got to bed ready for another challenging day in Laos.
We woke up at 5h45 again absolutely crazy, what kind of holiday is that? We headed to the one and only main road where we just randomly picked a spot to wait for a mode of transport to take us to Savannekhat. At 7h05 a truck (sungtaauw) pulled up and he said he would leave at 7h45. So we went to the one and only restaurant for some breakfast. By the way, we left our luggage loaded on his truck whilst we ate- they are such honest people. This was the best breakfast of the trip so far. We had two juicy fried eggs each with tea and stunning sweet bread scones. It cost us a whole dollar! We got back to the truck and waited until it was full even though there were already 8 people + us, a motorbike, plenty empty beer crates loaded and other paraphernalia… The drive was quite pleasant except for the stops along the way but the scenery was wonderful and the country is so green and lush. We passed many villages and it was very interesting to see how they live and the daily life. When we arrived in Savannekhat we searched for accommodation for ages. All the guesthouses and hotels were shocking and you must understand that at this stage it must be bad for us not find something. We settled for the Mekong Hotel by the river and one could see Thailand across the Mekong River. We were a little on edge since we had no money on us by now (only $ travelers cheques, credit cards and some Ding Dongs). There are no ATM’s in Laos so drawing cash was not an option. We got to a bank and managed to get some dollars and Kips and now we could relax. The town was like a morgue and there was nothing really happening. We had a bite to eat and walked along the river, stopping by at the Wat and we met some novice monks who wanted to practice their English. A massage went down really well and by then it was already dark. The market was closed and so we went to the river and had a local fish on the barbecue which came with a huge bowl of sticky rice and lettuce. It was fresh and delicious. We got back to the hotel and the music was blaring. It was coming up through the floor so Rich went downstairs to tell the guy that we had to move out. He not only gave us our money back, even though we had left our stuff in the room since 12h00, but he also drove Rich on his motorbike to help us find another hotel. How is that! These people are incredible: friendly, honest, trusting and kind. We had a cold shower, eventually, and got to bed ready for another challenging day in Laos.
14 December, 2006
We got on an early bus for the tour to the DMZ. We arrived at the first stop, Dong Ha, for breakfast. We then reached the old wartime bridge crossing the Ben Hai River on highway 1 which was once the demarcation line between North and South Vietnam. This became one of the most militarized zones in the world during the war. Today, the old bridge still stands but there is a newly built bridge with two large towers that is in use. At the end of the bridge there is a newly built memorial of a mother and child waiting for the man/husband to return from war. We then reached the Vinh Moc Tunnels which are now a monument to the determination of the North Vietnamese to persevere and triumph in the American War. Up to 300 families lived in these tunnels at one time and 17 babies were born here between 1966 and 1975. The tunnels are 2.8 km long and walking through a part of them was quite eerie. We then drove passed the Rockpile which is along Highway 9 where the US marine corps had a base and lookout post. On the way we passed the old Ho Chi Minh Trail and the last stop was Khe Sanh Combat Base. This was the sight of the most famous siege and one of the most controversial battles of the American War in Vietnam! Many people died and nothing was achieved and the US forces were redeployed after they realized the whole thing was unnecessary. We walked around the museum and saw some old US navy helicopters and bomb shells still lurking around. We got dropped off in the town of Khe Sanh and from there we were on our own. We got a lift with a minibus taxi to Lao Bao (Vietnam / Laos Border), negotiated and squeezed in. We walked across the border from Vietnam and into Laos. This was the first time either of us had really crossed a border in this manner and it won’t be the last. We felt brave and stupid all at the same time. We got our Laos visa without any problems and we walked into a new country not knowing where we were going. We just walked and walked until we reached a town and the buses were not leaving until tomorrow. So we continued to walk and a truck driver was leaving for Sepon, a town 40km away, so we jumped on the back. We drove through the countryside into the sunset and it was quite an adventure. We arrived in Sepon, which is a one-horse town (and that horse died a few years ago???) and there was one guesthouse. We ideally wanted to get closer to our destination in Laos, but this wasn’t possible, so we walked over to the guesthouse and checked in for the night. They wanted $7 but we negotiated down to $5 (we may have overpaid??). It was clean and I was loving it! Rich was a bit worried and stressed but we had no choice really but to stay the night. We found the only restaurant in the town and dinner wasn’t too bad. Nobody could speak English and so the lonely planet (bible) came in useful with all the phrases. We managed to swap a few Vietnamese Ding-Dongs with Kips (the local currency) since we had no local money on us, only a few dollars- crazy! Luckily we didn’t need too much, the whole day with transport, visas and food and accommodation cost us pittance. The town was dead so we had a perfect excuse to get into bed early- which we did!
We got on an early bus for the tour to the DMZ. We arrived at the first stop, Dong Ha, for breakfast. We then reached the old wartime bridge crossing the Ben Hai River on highway 1 which was once the demarcation line between North and South Vietnam. This became one of the most militarized zones in the world during the war. Today, the old bridge still stands but there is a newly built bridge with two large towers that is in use. At the end of the bridge there is a newly built memorial of a mother and child waiting for the man/husband to return from war. We then reached the Vinh Moc Tunnels which are now a monument to the determination of the North Vietnamese to persevere and triumph in the American War. Up to 300 families lived in these tunnels at one time and 17 babies were born here between 1966 and 1975. The tunnels are 2.8 km long and walking through a part of them was quite eerie. We then drove passed the Rockpile which is along Highway 9 where the US marine corps had a base and lookout post. On the way we passed the old Ho Chi Minh Trail and the last stop was Khe Sanh Combat Base. This was the sight of the most famous siege and one of the most controversial battles of the American War in Vietnam! Many people died and nothing was achieved and the US forces were redeployed after they realized the whole thing was unnecessary. We walked around the museum and saw some old US navy helicopters and bomb shells still lurking around. We got dropped off in the town of Khe Sanh and from there we were on our own. We got a lift with a minibus taxi to Lao Bao (Vietnam / Laos Border), negotiated and squeezed in. We walked across the border from Vietnam and into Laos. This was the first time either of us had really crossed a border in this manner and it won’t be the last. We felt brave and stupid all at the same time. We got our Laos visa without any problems and we walked into a new country not knowing where we were going. We just walked and walked until we reached a town and the buses were not leaving until tomorrow. So we continued to walk and a truck driver was leaving for Sepon, a town 40km away, so we jumped on the back. We drove through the countryside into the sunset and it was quite an adventure. We arrived in Sepon, which is a one-horse town (and that horse died a few years ago???) and there was one guesthouse. We ideally wanted to get closer to our destination in Laos, but this wasn’t possible, so we walked over to the guesthouse and checked in for the night. They wanted $7 but we negotiated down to $5 (we may have overpaid??). It was clean and I was loving it! Rich was a bit worried and stressed but we had no choice really but to stay the night. We found the only restaurant in the town and dinner wasn’t too bad. Nobody could speak English and so the lonely planet (bible) came in useful with all the phrases. We managed to swap a few Vietnamese Ding-Dongs with Kips (the local currency) since we had no local money on us, only a few dollars- crazy! Luckily we didn’t need too much, the whole day with transport, visas and food and accommodation cost us pittance. The town was dead so we had a perfect excuse to get into bed early- which we did!
Monday, December 25, 2006
13 December, 2006
The drive was very scenic and the first stop was Marble Mountain. It was used as a VC hospital during the War and before that as a religious site. There are several concrete Buddahs and carved stone within the caves of Cham origin. We didn’t have much time but investigated as much as we could through the dark alleys and rocks. We continued the bus journey passing green fields and cows and farmlands and it was gorgeous. We found a really posh hotel (not) for $13 but it was perfect. The weather was rainy but we didn’t let that stop us from visiting the famous Thien Mu Pagoda and the Citadel. We walked around and got soaked since we didn’t take our raincoats. This city is quite pretty but there is no beach just a river and I guess it would probably look prettier in the sunshine. There were lots of restaurants and we decided to go for Italian – it was quite good. We were not sorry to be leaving the next day since Hue is really a one-day kind of town and most people go there in order to get a tour to the DMZ (demilitarized zone).
The drive was very scenic and the first stop was Marble Mountain. It was used as a VC hospital during the War and before that as a religious site. There are several concrete Buddahs and carved stone within the caves of Cham origin. We didn’t have much time but investigated as much as we could through the dark alleys and rocks. We continued the bus journey passing green fields and cows and farmlands and it was gorgeous. We found a really posh hotel (not) for $13 but it was perfect. The weather was rainy but we didn’t let that stop us from visiting the famous Thien Mu Pagoda and the Citadel. We walked around and got soaked since we didn’t take our raincoats. This city is quite pretty but there is no beach just a river and I guess it would probably look prettier in the sunshine. There were lots of restaurants and we decided to go for Italian – it was quite good. We were not sorry to be leaving the next day since Hue is really a one-day kind of town and most people go there in order to get a tour to the DMZ (demilitarized zone).
12 December, 2006
Another really early morning as we headed to My Son – the ancient kingdom of the Champa. This was the site of the most important Cham intellectual and religious centre. The Cham people (who came from Indonesia originally) would come here to pray and perhaps have burials for Cham monarchs. It is set in a valley and is surrounded by mountains, really tranquil and beautiful. The Cham towers are amazing and until today researchers have yet to figure out how the Chams first built these structures and how they managed to get the baked bricks to stick together. During the American War, this region was completely devastated and many structures were bombed. There are 10 structures that are in tact and they are trying to restore as much as possible but the ‘new; brickwork does not look the same! We walked around and then we got dropped off at a boat and did a river cruise along the Mekong stopping at a tiny wood carvings village. We had a lovely swim when we got back to the hotel and then we tried to drink the undrinkable- second class mulberry wine - no good. We had dinner with Frank and Louise – an awesome meal of fish in banana leaf – the best snapper ever! We also had a bucket or two of some vodka concoction and we had to finally say good-bye to our friends since we were off to Hue tomorrow.
Another really early morning as we headed to My Son – the ancient kingdom of the Champa. This was the site of the most important Cham intellectual and religious centre. The Cham people (who came from Indonesia originally) would come here to pray and perhaps have burials for Cham monarchs. It is set in a valley and is surrounded by mountains, really tranquil and beautiful. The Cham towers are amazing and until today researchers have yet to figure out how the Chams first built these structures and how they managed to get the baked bricks to stick together. During the American War, this region was completely devastated and many structures were bombed. There are 10 structures that are in tact and they are trying to restore as much as possible but the ‘new; brickwork does not look the same! We walked around and then we got dropped off at a boat and did a river cruise along the Mekong stopping at a tiny wood carvings village. We had a lovely swim when we got back to the hotel and then we tried to drink the undrinkable- second class mulberry wine - no good. We had dinner with Frank and Louise – an awesome meal of fish in banana leaf – the best snapper ever! We also had a bucket or two of some vodka concoction and we had to finally say good-bye to our friends since we were off to Hue tomorrow.
11 December, 2006
We settled in our hotel – but our friends decided to stay elsewhere. It was a great hotel and we had a big swimming pool. We caught a free shuttle to the beach. It was so similar to a Muizenberg kind of beach and there was nobody there. We sat on some beach chairs, reading and sleeping and we had a good few swims. It was so relaxing, I had a foot massage and Rich had a back massage on the beach and after some sun shine we had some lunch in a little restaurant, fresh Snapper and chips. We caught the shuttle back to our hotel and had a quick dip in the pool. The rest of the day we strolled through the town passing a zillion tailors- unbelievable. Everyone specially comes to Hoi An for their clothes to be made, except for us. We met up with the gang for dinner and I think everyone was tired, and the food wasn’t great either. Where are my prawns?
We settled in our hotel – but our friends decided to stay elsewhere. It was a great hotel and we had a big swimming pool. We caught a free shuttle to the beach. It was so similar to a Muizenberg kind of beach and there was nobody there. We sat on some beach chairs, reading and sleeping and we had a good few swims. It was so relaxing, I had a foot massage and Rich had a back massage on the beach and after some sun shine we had some lunch in a little restaurant, fresh Snapper and chips. We caught the shuttle back to our hotel and had a quick dip in the pool. The rest of the day we strolled through the town passing a zillion tailors- unbelievable. Everyone specially comes to Hoi An for their clothes to be made, except for us. We met up with the gang for dinner and I think everyone was tired, and the food wasn’t great either. Where are my prawns?
