Thursday, April 26, 2007
26th April, 07
We woke up early and so Rich suggested we go for a run on the promenade. This was a brilliant idea and I almost died. It was really good and we both felt good after. We had a good breakfast and then headed into Manaus city on the local bus- our last journey on local transportation. We went to Palacio Negro which was the house of a former German rubber baron and then sold to the first Governor of the state. They have a small tour of the palace and a few museums around and so it is now a cultural centre.The palace still holds the original furniture and art works and a lot of the wood was designed in Europe and the art pieces are from all over the world, even from countries like China. Manaus was a very rich city at the time of the rubber boom and the people who lived in this city were very wealthy; and in fact the story goes that anything that needed to be washed (even clothing) was sent to Europe because they believed that the river (Rio Negro or Black River) was dirty. This was our last bit of sightseeing and then we went to a great fruit juice bar. It started to pour and we had to wait until the rain subsided a bit. Luckily it did calm down and we quickly ran to the bus stop to catch the bus back to the Tropical Hotel. We went straight to sleep – not that it was successful – and then checked out at 19h00. We sat in the lobby catching up our admin and then went for dinner on the promenade. We got back to the hotel and had to wait until 1h30 am when the shuttle would take us to the airport.
We woke up early and so Rich suggested we go for a run on the promenade. This was a brilliant idea and I almost died. It was really good and we both felt good after. We had a good breakfast and then headed into Manaus city on the local bus- our last journey on local transportation. We went to Palacio Negro which was the house of a former German rubber baron and then sold to the first Governor of the state. They have a small tour of the palace and a few museums around and so it is now a cultural centre.The palace still holds the original furniture and art works and a lot of the wood was designed in Europe and the art pieces are from all over the world, even from countries like China. Manaus was a very rich city at the time of the rubber boom and the people who lived in this city were very wealthy; and in fact the story goes that anything that needed to be washed (even clothing) was sent to Europe because they believed that the river (Rio Negro or Black River) was dirty. This was our last bit of sightseeing and then we went to a great fruit juice bar. It started to pour and we had to wait until the rain subsided a bit. Luckily it did calm down and we quickly ran to the bus stop to catch the bus back to the Tropical Hotel. We went straight to sleep – not that it was successful – and then checked out at 19h00. We sat in the lobby catching up our admin and then went for dinner on the promenade. We got back to the hotel and had to wait until 1h30 am when the shuttle would take us to the airport.
25 April, 07
We woke up wondering if we should leave in the morning or if we would be able to do some program we have not done yet. We managed to organize a different walk with a young Indian fellow who lives in the village/jungle who spoke no English. It was a pleasant walk and finally the rain arrived. We were soaked but it was fun. We got back and the sun came out and they sent us off on a two-man canoe. This was quite a challenge and it was very ‘wobbly’. We had fun and we went out for about one hour –not very far- we were scared that we would get lost. We then relaxed and packed and we left at lunch time on a boat that took two hours to get to the road. It was our last bit on the River and we really tried to spot some animals but it is so difficult. We were picked up by a driver and we drove for about 30 minutes and had to get on a car ferry across to Manaus city. We arrived at the 5-star Tropical hotel and decided to splurge for our final night of this long, incredible journey. The hotel is gorgeous and we even got upgraded to a deluxe room. We felt so clean and spoilt and we really needed to clean up. We went straight to the magnificent pool that appears to merge with the Amazon river. It was lovely and it felt like we were on a cruise ship again on the deck watching the sunset. We had hot showers- wow- and we got dressed up to go to El Toro Loco Restaurant (apparently the best in town). It was five- star and the service was excellent. They had every type of food from Japanese to meat to fish and freshly made pastas. We had the strongest Caipirinhas ever that we couldn’t even drink them. I felt like I was drugged but we had a good meal anyway. We got the hotel shuttle to pick us up (don’t know how we managed to pull that one off) and we rolled into our King-size bed with soft white linens.
We woke up wondering if we should leave in the morning or if we would be able to do some program we have not done yet. We managed to organize a different walk with a young Indian fellow who lives in the village/jungle who spoke no English. It was a pleasant walk and finally the rain arrived. We were soaked but it was fun. We got back and the sun came out and they sent us off on a two-man canoe. This was quite a challenge and it was very ‘wobbly’. We had fun and we went out for about one hour –not very far- we were scared that we would get lost. We then relaxed and packed and we left at lunch time on a boat that took two hours to get to the road. It was our last bit on the River and we really tried to spot some animals but it is so difficult. We were picked up by a driver and we drove for about 30 minutes and had to get on a car ferry across to Manaus city. We arrived at the 5-star Tropical hotel and decided to splurge for our final night of this long, incredible journey. The hotel is gorgeous and we even got upgraded to a deluxe room. We felt so clean and spoilt and we really needed to clean up. We went straight to the magnificent pool that appears to merge with the Amazon river. It was lovely and it felt like we were on a cruise ship again on the deck watching the sunset. We had hot showers- wow- and we got dressed up to go to El Toro Loco Restaurant (apparently the best in town). It was five- star and the service was excellent. They had every type of food from Japanese to meat to fish and freshly made pastas. We had the strongest Caipirinhas ever that we couldn’t even drink them. I felt like I was drugged but we had a good meal anyway. We got the hotel shuttle to pick us up (don’t know how we managed to pull that one off) and we rolled into our King-size bed with soft white linens.
24 April, 07
Today was the day I was looking forward to the most – a hike in the jungle. We didn’t have a guide because he disappeared on us yesterday and so we went with the local guy who can only speak Portuguese. He showed us some interesting trees and medicines in the forest but I am sure it would have been much more informative with a proper guide. I also swung on a real tarzan branch which was quite fun. It was boiling hot and we were drenched with sweat in our long-sleeve clothes. After the walk we stopped at Acajatuba village which was quite interesting. At the entrance to the village is a church and then a few muddy football fields. There was a hospital and a brand new school too. We found the touristy curio shop and walked around the houses. It is sad to see in a way because the original traditions and ways of living and culture have been wiped out. I guess now they have to try and keep up with the modern world. We relaxed for a couple of hours in the hammocks on the deck and it was very hot as the afternoon sun sneaked in. We have been so lucky with the weather since it is the rainy season and it should be raining every day. We waited as the new recruits arrived and there were six people. It was disappointing to see that no guide arrived with them – again! So, we had to fit in with their schedule/program and we went piranha fishing again which was fun and very beautiful and we waited out on the river until after sunset to go Caiman hunting. This was very disappointing and we didn’t really look for the caimans (alligators). We found a baby caiman and held him, saw some eyes near the waters edge and that was it. They didn’t bother looking properly and so once again we had no guide and it was probably cut short.
We got back after dark and it was fun cruising through the river in the dark. We had dinner and we were in bed by 20h30.
Today was the day I was looking forward to the most – a hike in the jungle. We didn’t have a guide because he disappeared on us yesterday and so we went with the local guy who can only speak Portuguese. He showed us some interesting trees and medicines in the forest but I am sure it would have been much more informative with a proper guide. I also swung on a real tarzan branch which was quite fun. It was boiling hot and we were drenched with sweat in our long-sleeve clothes. After the walk we stopped at Acajatuba village which was quite interesting. At the entrance to the village is a church and then a few muddy football fields. There was a hospital and a brand new school too. We found the touristy curio shop and walked around the houses. It is sad to see in a way because the original traditions and ways of living and culture have been wiped out. I guess now they have to try and keep up with the modern world. We relaxed for a couple of hours in the hammocks on the deck and it was very hot as the afternoon sun sneaked in. We have been so lucky with the weather since it is the rainy season and it should be raining every day. We waited as the new recruits arrived and there were six people. It was disappointing to see that no guide arrived with them – again! So, we had to fit in with their schedule/program and we went piranha fishing again which was fun and very beautiful and we waited out on the river until after sunset to go Caiman hunting. This was very disappointing and we didn’t really look for the caimans (alligators). We found a baby caiman and held him, saw some eyes near the waters edge and that was it. They didn’t bother looking properly and so once again we had no guide and it was probably cut short.
We got back after dark and it was fun cruising through the river in the dark. We had dinner and we were in bed by 20h30.
23 April, 07
We woke up nice and early and the weather was perfect. We had some breakfast and we were off to see the Big Tree (Sumaumeira). The boat trip was very nice and we spotted a few Tucans and Parrots but from afar. The tree is 300 years old and apparently the biggest in the forest?! There were bats in the tree and loads of mosquitos all over the show. On the way back we stopped at a beach and it was a bit boring since they never told us to bring along our bathing suits. But I am not sure if we would have had a swim with the piranhas anyway. We chilled out at the lodge for a couple of hours, had some lunch and saw the new recruits arriving – two American girls (Monica and Michelle). We visited a native village and Caboclo house which is where the manioc flour or farofa is made. We were given some to taste as well as Acai juice. This is a type of Black Berry that grows on specific palm trees and is supposed to be very healthy for the body and prevents certain diseases. We also had delicious fresh Brazil nuts. There was a Boa Vista snake roaming around, Rich also played darts by blowing them through his mouth with a special instrument and so it was quite an adventurous little place. We got back to the lodge at sunset and sat on the deck listening to the sounds of the birds. It didn’t rain tonight and so the noises outside were so clear and interesting.
We woke up nice and early and the weather was perfect. We had some breakfast and we were off to see the Big Tree (Sumaumeira). The boat trip was very nice and we spotted a few Tucans and Parrots but from afar. The tree is 300 years old and apparently the biggest in the forest?! There were bats in the tree and loads of mosquitos all over the show. On the way back we stopped at a beach and it was a bit boring since they never told us to bring along our bathing suits. But I am not sure if we would have had a swim with the piranhas anyway. We chilled out at the lodge for a couple of hours, had some lunch and saw the new recruits arriving – two American girls (Monica and Michelle). We visited a native village and Caboclo house which is where the manioc flour or farofa is made. We were given some to taste as well as Acai juice. This is a type of Black Berry that grows on specific palm trees and is supposed to be very healthy for the body and prevents certain diseases. We also had delicious fresh Brazil nuts. There was a Boa Vista snake roaming around, Rich also played darts by blowing them through his mouth with a special instrument and so it was quite an adventurous little place. We got back to the lodge at sunset and sat on the deck listening to the sounds of the birds. It didn’t rain tonight and so the noises outside were so clear and interesting.
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
22 April, 07
We were picked up from our Hotel and taken to the ferry port from where we boarded a boat with our guide D’Angelo. He spoke very good English and we were the only people on the boat- a private tour. We first went to where the two rivers meet, the Rio Negro and the Solimoes. One can really see where they meet and it is fascinating. The colors are so different and this is because of the different current strength, the depth of the water, the temperature difference and the density of the water. We carried on passed Manaus town and the docks and Ponta Negra and we sailed along the River for about 5 hours. We lay in hammocks and slept and had sweet pineapple and bananas. It was so beautiful and relaxing and peaceful. We arrived at Acajatuba Lodge and had some lunch before going on our afternoon tour. The lodge is very rustic and eco-friendly and simple and our room is very comfortable. We went Pirhana fishing in the afternoon along with two Polish guys and three Aussies. It was very chilled out but we never caught any fish except for the guide. He caught many- I guess there is some trick to it! We arrived back and had cold showers before dinner and the monkeys here entertained us. The big girl was trying some of the Polish dude’s Vodka and she loves coke. The little girl is very naughty and torments the parrot all the time. We got to our chalet and the electricity went off and it started to rain. It was so special and we really felt like we were in the wild.
We were picked up from our Hotel and taken to the ferry port from where we boarded a boat with our guide D’Angelo. He spoke very good English and we were the only people on the boat- a private tour. We first went to where the two rivers meet, the Rio Negro and the Solimoes. One can really see where they meet and it is fascinating. The colors are so different and this is because of the different current strength, the depth of the water, the temperature difference and the density of the water. We carried on passed Manaus town and the docks and Ponta Negra and we sailed along the River for about 5 hours. We lay in hammocks and slept and had sweet pineapple and bananas. It was so beautiful and relaxing and peaceful. We arrived at Acajatuba Lodge and had some lunch before going on our afternoon tour. The lodge is very rustic and eco-friendly and simple and our room is very comfortable. We went Pirhana fishing in the afternoon along with two Polish guys and three Aussies. It was very chilled out but we never caught any fish except for the guide. He caught many- I guess there is some trick to it! We arrived back and had cold showers before dinner and the monkeys here entertained us. The big girl was trying some of the Polish dude’s Vodka and she loves coke. The little girl is very naughty and torments the parrot all the time. We got to our chalet and the electricity went off and it started to rain. It was so special and we really felt like we were in the wild.
21 April, 07
We woke up and had some breakfast before leaving for the airport on the local bus. It took forever and we realized that it really is quite an ugly, very poor city. Once we got to the airport we had to wait in a monstrous queue to check in with TAM airlines. There was some hold-up and our flight was delayed too. We had three seats each and we arrived in Manaus at lunch time. We had to wait for someone to pick us up at the airport and we got a free transfer to a hotel in the city centre. We picked Hotel Krystal and it wasn’t too bad. It was Saturday afternoon and we had to get some lunch so by the time we were done there was not much time for sightseeing. We visited the opera house/ theatre but there was no opera showing this evening unfortunately. We walked passed the shops and amongst the chaos down town and in the evening we got the bus to Ponta Negra. This is an area along the river with restaurants and bars and stalls and a fine hotel called ‘The Tropical’. We walked along the river and had some popcorn and visited the hotel. As the evening went by, it got busier and the stalls were quite active.
Manaus is a fairly big city and a large port; and basically a stopover for people who are heading into the jungle. We got on the bus back to our hotel passed all the favelas (seedy areas) and into bed for our big day tomorrow.
We woke up and had some breakfast before leaving for the airport on the local bus. It took forever and we realized that it really is quite an ugly, very poor city. Once we got to the airport we had to wait in a monstrous queue to check in with TAM airlines. There was some hold-up and our flight was delayed too. We had three seats each and we arrived in Manaus at lunch time. We had to wait for someone to pick us up at the airport and we got a free transfer to a hotel in the city centre. We picked Hotel Krystal and it wasn’t too bad. It was Saturday afternoon and we had to get some lunch so by the time we were done there was not much time for sightseeing. We visited the opera house/ theatre but there was no opera showing this evening unfortunately. We walked passed the shops and amongst the chaos down town and in the evening we got the bus to Ponta Negra. This is an area along the river with restaurants and bars and stalls and a fine hotel called ‘The Tropical’. We walked along the river and had some popcorn and visited the hotel. As the evening went by, it got busier and the stalls were quite active.
Manaus is a fairly big city and a large port; and basically a stopover for people who are heading into the jungle. We got on the bus back to our hotel passed all the favelas (seedy areas) and into bed for our big day tomorrow.
20 April, 07
We woke up and took it easy since we had the morning at our leisure until we had to leave at lunch time. We took a stroll on the beach (that is along the River), and there were so many different seeds and dead fish. A few birds and I spotted a snake, it wasn’t very big though and it wasn’t dangerous either. There were very weird looking fish swimming at the break – they looked like live skeletons and they were almost transparent. We relaxed at the pool again and got on the van that took us to the ferry. It was pretty seamless and we really had an amazing few days on this island. We arrived back in Belem and checked into our Machado Plaza Hotel again. We decided to head out to Das Docas for dinner and we were so impressed. It was very impressive and very pretty. They have recreated a waterfront with cranes and a big warehouse and so it looks like the docks. It is lined with lovely restaurants all along the River, lit-up and live music is playing which creates a great ambience. We had a nice evening and we were off to bed ready for our last leg of the trip – The Amazon!
We woke up and took it easy since we had the morning at our leisure until we had to leave at lunch time. We took a stroll on the beach (that is along the River), and there were so many different seeds and dead fish. A few birds and I spotted a snake, it wasn’t very big though and it wasn’t dangerous either. There were very weird looking fish swimming at the break – they looked like live skeletons and they were almost transparent. We relaxed at the pool again and got on the van that took us to the ferry. It was pretty seamless and we really had an amazing few days on this island. We arrived back in Belem and checked into our Machado Plaza Hotel again. We decided to head out to Das Docas for dinner and we were so impressed. It was very impressive and very pretty. They have recreated a waterfront with cranes and a big warehouse and so it looks like the docks. It is lined with lovely restaurants all along the River, lit-up and live music is playing which creates a great ambience. We had a nice evening and we were off to bed ready for our last leg of the trip – The Amazon!
19 April, 07
We woke up to a lovely sunny day and the animals were grazing outside. We left for a boat trip along the river and you would be amazed how strong the current is. The water is very brown and does not look appetizing at all, even though one can swim in it. We went through some mangroves and it was very short and sweet. Everyone had lunch (except for me- of course) and we went in a bigger van with a few new recruits on our afternoon tour. We had to take a ferry across the River to the capital city of the island called Soure. We first went to Praia do Pesqueiro (a beach) where the water is a mixture of salt and fresh water, with amazing seeds that are washed down from the Amazonian forests. The beach was deserted since it was quiet season and in fact ‘winter’. Not that one could feel that because we are only about half a degree away from the equator. We then drove to see the many fazendas (ranches) that are spread across the island. The island is gorgeous with fields of animals all grazing together. We passed some buffalo swimming in a swamp and then we saw the Guaras (Scarlet Ibis) - unbelievable colors. We then stopped at a local Veterinarian who owns a fazenda and breeds buffalo too who has opened her doors to tourists. An amazing lady but she could only speak Portuguese. We got a chance to ride on the buffalo and pat them. We spent some time there and then we went to see how the original ceramics were made at the time of the Indians. An original descendant (chap) was demonstrating to us how it was made using animal teeth for patterns and shining, rocks for the colors and a very ancient machine. It was very sad since it is a dying art and he is the only one left practicing this technique. The Portuguese and Europeans basically ‘wiped out’ the Indian culture and ways of life (practices). Our last stop was at a shop in the village that sold arts and crafts and all the leather goods. We were all tired and hungry and we arrived back at about 7pm. We all met for dinner again and tonight there was live entertainment. It was really a great show with Brazilian dancing taking one on a journey through the country and its many different states. We all had a few dances too.
We woke up to a lovely sunny day and the animals were grazing outside. We left for a boat trip along the river and you would be amazed how strong the current is. The water is very brown and does not look appetizing at all, even though one can swim in it. We went through some mangroves and it was very short and sweet. Everyone had lunch (except for me- of course) and we went in a bigger van with a few new recruits on our afternoon tour. We had to take a ferry across the River to the capital city of the island called Soure. We first went to Praia do Pesqueiro (a beach) where the water is a mixture of salt and fresh water, with amazing seeds that are washed down from the Amazonian forests. The beach was deserted since it was quiet season and in fact ‘winter’. Not that one could feel that because we are only about half a degree away from the equator. We then drove to see the many fazendas (ranches) that are spread across the island. The island is gorgeous with fields of animals all grazing together. We passed some buffalo swimming in a swamp and then we saw the Guaras (Scarlet Ibis) - unbelievable colors. We then stopped at a local Veterinarian who owns a fazenda and breeds buffalo too who has opened her doors to tourists. An amazing lady but she could only speak Portuguese. We got a chance to ride on the buffalo and pat them. We spent some time there and then we went to see how the original ceramics were made at the time of the Indians. An original descendant (chap) was demonstrating to us how it was made using animal teeth for patterns and shining, rocks for the colors and a very ancient machine. It was very sad since it is a dying art and he is the only one left practicing this technique. The Portuguese and Europeans basically ‘wiped out’ the Indian culture and ways of life (practices). Our last stop was at a shop in the village that sold arts and crafts and all the leather goods. We were all tired and hungry and we arrived back at about 7pm. We all met for dinner again and tonight there was live entertainment. It was really a great show with Brazilian dancing taking one on a journey through the country and its many different states. We all had a few dances too.
18 April, 07
Oh my G-d, death warmed up. We have woken up so early and I am feeling so ill. Every muscle aches and somehow I have to get ready so that we will be on time for our pick-up to the ferry station. I got it all out (if you know what I mean) before we left and so we got to the ferry and I was so worried about it. Every time I think that there are no more boats, we have to do another one. It all went well and because we were on the Amazon River it was pretty smooth the whole way and the weather was good to. At that time of the morning the water was in fact like a lake and the sun was rising- it was gorgeous. We slept for three hours and arrived in a port called Camara on the island of Marajo from where a van picked us up and we drove another 35 minutes to a town called Salvaterra. Isla Marajo is 50 000 km squared and it is an archipelago of fluvial beaches, swamps, lagoons, forests and green fields. Its landscape changes drastically depending on the time of year and funnily enough the buffalo population exceeds the human populace. The story goes as follows: a ship on the way to India sailing towards French Guiana in about 1920 sunk and the legend is that the buffalo are descended from the animals that swam ashore. The island has many snakes, many fish (including stingrays) and many beautiful birds including the graceful Scarlet Ibis (Guara). We arrived at Pousada dos Guaras and I collapsed in the hammock outside the room whilst Rich ‘doby-wallahed’ (washed –for those of you who didn’t read the India section) the clothes yet again. We lay by the pool and relaxed until we had to meet at reception for our tour. The grounds were very pretty and everything was very natural. There were horses and buffalo in the gardens roaming around and the pousada had such a nice feel to it. There was a French couple (Chloe and Gium), a Brazilian girl (Luciana), an Argentine girl (Celina) and a miserable old couple on our tour and we started in the town of Joanes. We saw the remnants of the first Jesuit church that was set up in the 17th century by the first Portugese who colonized this area. This was at the Bay of Para on the Paracauari River, not the Amazon River, and this was pretty much the whole village. We then drove to the centre of Salvaterra (the village that we are staying in). A pathetic museum and a few shops lined the street with the pharmacy, butcher and a few mercados. It was very simple and quiet and ‘chilled-out’. A few people bought some buffalo cheese- apparently it is delicious. But, having this bug/diarrhea I cannot have the pleasure of trying it. We got back to the pousada and met the group for dinner – they are all lovely people and we had a bit of Portugese, French, Spanish and English going. The bug is still lurking…
Oh my G-d, death warmed up. We have woken up so early and I am feeling so ill. Every muscle aches and somehow I have to get ready so that we will be on time for our pick-up to the ferry station. I got it all out (if you know what I mean) before we left and so we got to the ferry and I was so worried about it. Every time I think that there are no more boats, we have to do another one. It all went well and because we were on the Amazon River it was pretty smooth the whole way and the weather was good to. At that time of the morning the water was in fact like a lake and the sun was rising- it was gorgeous. We slept for three hours and arrived in a port called Camara on the island of Marajo from where a van picked us up and we drove another 35 minutes to a town called Salvaterra. Isla Marajo is 50 000 km squared and it is an archipelago of fluvial beaches, swamps, lagoons, forests and green fields. Its landscape changes drastically depending on the time of year and funnily enough the buffalo population exceeds the human populace. The story goes as follows: a ship on the way to India sailing towards French Guiana in about 1920 sunk and the legend is that the buffalo are descended from the animals that swam ashore. The island has many snakes, many fish (including stingrays) and many beautiful birds including the graceful Scarlet Ibis (Guara). We arrived at Pousada dos Guaras and I collapsed in the hammock outside the room whilst Rich ‘doby-wallahed’ (washed –for those of you who didn’t read the India section) the clothes yet again. We lay by the pool and relaxed until we had to meet at reception for our tour. The grounds were very pretty and everything was very natural. There were horses and buffalo in the gardens roaming around and the pousada had such a nice feel to it. There was a French couple (Chloe and Gium), a Brazilian girl (Luciana), an Argentine girl (Celina) and a miserable old couple on our tour and we started in the town of Joanes. We saw the remnants of the first Jesuit church that was set up in the 17th century by the first Portugese who colonized this area. This was at the Bay of Para on the Paracauari River, not the Amazon River, and this was pretty much the whole village. We then drove to the centre of Salvaterra (the village that we are staying in). A pathetic museum and a few shops lined the street with the pharmacy, butcher and a few mercados. It was very simple and quiet and ‘chilled-out’. A few people bought some buffalo cheese- apparently it is delicious. But, having this bug/diarrhea I cannot have the pleasure of trying it. We got back to the pousada and met the group for dinner – they are all lovely people and we had a bit of Portugese, French, Spanish and English going. The bug is still lurking…
17 April, 07
Belem is the economic centre of the Amazon and the state capital of Para. It is a big city with the largest port in the Amazon and it is known as the “gateway to the Amazon”. It is rich historically and culturally but the city is big and ugly and dirty and they have only recently started to clean it up for tourism. We arrived here in Belem at about midday and we caught another local bus into the city. This was very easy but finding accommodation wasn’t. We eventually happened to fall upon Machado Plaza Hotel and thank goodness we did because I was ready to get on the next flight out of here. We settled in the room and for some stupid reason we decided to ask the reception where they recommend for us to eat. We were starving and I guess our brains were not functioning properly. Our golden rule is generally to eat in the restaurants recommended in the guide book and we had already decided where we were heading to. Anyway, I am emphasizing this whole matter because this meal would change a lot of things for the next couple of days- not in a good way either! After a terrible lunch we walked around a little like zombies through the market and we were on our way to book a ferry for tomorrow when we arrived at the central tourist information office. They were so helpful and polite and they advised us to take a tour rather than try to do Isla Marajo (an island nearby) on our own. For some reason we actually believed them and instead of buying the ferry tickets we got back to another agency to organize our trip. At this stage I was exhausted and ill from the food so I went back to the hotel room. I was shaking and feeling really bad and nauseas and I slept whilst Rich organized the tour for the next three days. We were both asleep by 19h00 since we had to wake up for the ferry at 4h30am. And, we didn’t really sleep last night so we needed as much sleep as possible. From what we saw of the city, besides the tourist sights i.e. museums and buildings, it is an ugly, dirty and poor city with spurts of greenery and parks lurking in between.
Belem is the economic centre of the Amazon and the state capital of Para. It is a big city with the largest port in the Amazon and it is known as the “gateway to the Amazon”. It is rich historically and culturally but the city is big and ugly and dirty and they have only recently started to clean it up for tourism. We arrived here in Belem at about midday and we caught another local bus into the city. This was very easy but finding accommodation wasn’t. We eventually happened to fall upon Machado Plaza Hotel and thank goodness we did because I was ready to get on the next flight out of here. We settled in the room and for some stupid reason we decided to ask the reception where they recommend for us to eat. We were starving and I guess our brains were not functioning properly. Our golden rule is generally to eat in the restaurants recommended in the guide book and we had already decided where we were heading to. Anyway, I am emphasizing this whole matter because this meal would change a lot of things for the next couple of days- not in a good way either! After a terrible lunch we walked around a little like zombies through the market and we were on our way to book a ferry for tomorrow when we arrived at the central tourist information office. They were so helpful and polite and they advised us to take a tour rather than try to do Isla Marajo (an island nearby) on our own. For some reason we actually believed them and instead of buying the ferry tickets we got back to another agency to organize our trip. At this stage I was exhausted and ill from the food so I went back to the hotel room. I was shaking and feeling really bad and nauseas and I slept whilst Rich organized the tour for the next three days. We were both asleep by 19h00 since we had to wake up for the ferry at 4h30am. And, we didn’t really sleep last night so we needed as much sleep as possible. From what we saw of the city, besides the tourist sights i.e. museums and buildings, it is an ugly, dirty and poor city with spurts of greenery and parks lurking in between.
Friday, April 20, 2007
16 April, 07
We had another mellow day in ‘Jeri’ walking around and along the beach. We walked to the famous rock with a hole in it that is on every postcard and picture that advertises this place. The walk there was on and off the beach, on the dunes and great views of the ocean. It was so quiet and beautiful and untouched. We spent the rest of the day on these massive loungers by the beach and then we went for our afternoon nap because tonight we will not get much sleep. We were very lucky again because we got a late check-out – at 22h00 and our bus would leave at 22h30. We went for a shocking dinner and then got ready to leave. We got on the truck first and drove along the beach passed the dunes on the waters edge in pitch darkness. Then we reached the town Jijoca where we changed to a normal bus and we broke down after one hour. There was something wrong with the engine and at 1am we had to wait for another bus to fetch us. The rest of the trip was ok and we arrived in Fortaleza at the main bus station at about 5h30am.
We had another mellow day in ‘Jeri’ walking around and along the beach. We walked to the famous rock with a hole in it that is on every postcard and picture that advertises this place. The walk there was on and off the beach, on the dunes and great views of the ocean. It was so quiet and beautiful and untouched. We spent the rest of the day on these massive loungers by the beach and then we went for our afternoon nap because tonight we will not get much sleep. We were very lucky again because we got a late check-out – at 22h00 and our bus would leave at 22h30. We went for a shocking dinner and then got ready to leave. We got on the truck first and drove along the beach passed the dunes on the waters edge in pitch darkness. Then we reached the town Jijoca where we changed to a normal bus and we broke down after one hour. There was something wrong with the engine and at 1am we had to wait for another bus to fetch us. The rest of the trip was ok and we arrived in Fortaleza at the main bus station at about 5h30am.
15 April, 07
We are still alive, kicking and happy 9 months later. Today we decided to do a day tour and our friends Lee and Flavia would join us. We got in a little jeep buggy and we drove off into the dunes along the beach. It was wonderful – so energizing. We had to cross a few lagoons with a raft and we drove through tiny fishing villages. We saw an owl and a few pigs, goats, chickens, cows, horses and donkeys. The villages were so primitive and remote and there is one public phone in each village as well as a TV in the main square from which everyone can watch (if it isn’t raining). We arrived in Tatajuba- an old town that was covered by a sand dune and then the town moved and the church was rebuilt. We jumped off some really high sand dunes having lots of fun seeing who could jump the furthest. Then we arrived at a big lagoon which is excellent for kite surfing and windsurfing. We, however, were not so adventurous and lazed on the hammocks and had a caipirinha in the water whilst we waited for our fresh fish to arrive. It started to pour and so we waited about one hour for the rain to stop. We drove back to Jericoacoara along the dunes with our maniac driver and through rivers and whatever else. It was really a fun day and we met Lee and Flavia for dinner. We were supposed to meet at a highly recommended restaurant called ‘Chocolate’ but when we saw the prices we went elsewhere. In general, it is not cheap at all, in fact it is quite expensive and we found another spot which served the most amazing seafood risotto. We were stuffed!
We are still alive, kicking and happy 9 months later. Today we decided to do a day tour and our friends Lee and Flavia would join us. We got in a little jeep buggy and we drove off into the dunes along the beach. It was wonderful – so energizing. We had to cross a few lagoons with a raft and we drove through tiny fishing villages. We saw an owl and a few pigs, goats, chickens, cows, horses and donkeys. The villages were so primitive and remote and there is one public phone in each village as well as a TV in the main square from which everyone can watch (if it isn’t raining). We arrived in Tatajuba- an old town that was covered by a sand dune and then the town moved and the church was rebuilt. We jumped off some really high sand dunes having lots of fun seeing who could jump the furthest. Then we arrived at a big lagoon which is excellent for kite surfing and windsurfing. We, however, were not so adventurous and lazed on the hammocks and had a caipirinha in the water whilst we waited for our fresh fish to arrive. It started to pour and so we waited about one hour for the rain to stop. We drove back to Jericoacoara along the dunes with our maniac driver and through rivers and whatever else. It was really a fun day and we met Lee and Flavia for dinner. We were supposed to meet at a highly recommended restaurant called ‘Chocolate’ but when we saw the prices we went elsewhere. In general, it is not cheap at all, in fact it is quite expensive and we found another spot which served the most amazing seafood risotto. We were stuffed!
Tuesday, April 17, 2007
14 April, 07
Today was quite a rainy day and it didn’t really stop; on and off the whole day. We still went for our walk along the beach and it was so beautiful. There was absolutely nobody else around except for a few pigs and cows. The dunes were so pretty and there were many lagoons too. On our way back the rain arrived and we were drenched by the time we reached the hotel. It was a very relaxing day and we had a Jacuzzi as the sun set. We went into the town for dinner and it was very quiet. There were not too many people around and I guess it was a good excuse for another early night.
Today was quite a rainy day and it didn’t really stop; on and off the whole day. We still went for our walk along the beach and it was so beautiful. There was absolutely nobody else around except for a few pigs and cows. The dunes were so pretty and there were many lagoons too. On our way back the rain arrived and we were drenched by the time we reached the hotel. It was a very relaxing day and we had a Jacuzzi as the sun set. We went into the town for dinner and it was very quiet. There were not too many people around and I guess it was a good excuse for another early night.
